ScorpionicSag
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Anybody have experience shooting +P in a Model 60 Performance Center with the 3" barrel? Also how about shooting +P in the Model 66 Combat Magnum with the 2.75" barrel?
+P in Model 60 Pro or Model 66 Combat Magnum
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1sailor
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I have a model 66 with a 2.5" barrel. I handload all my ammo and load for my M66 midway between +P and starting mag loads. Much hotter than a +P but not bad on the recoil at all. Of course, that all depends on the person shooting them but I have no recoil issues. Prior to foolishly trading it away I had a model 60 with 3" barrel. Here again I found +P loads to be not a problem for me.
MetalMan
Member
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Ditto for me........
I had a Model 60-15 (traded) and I have Model 66 and 19 snubs.
Absolutely no issues with .38 +P in any of these revolvers.
I also carry and shoot .38 +P in my 640-1 Pro without issue.
Hope this helps..........
Ditto for me........
I had a Model 60-15 (traded) and I have Model 66 and 19 snubs.
Absolutely no issues with .38 +P in any of these revolvers.
I also carry and shoot .38 +P in my 640-1 Pro without issue.
Hope this helps..........
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At about half the pressure of .357 Magnum, .38 Special +P will not cause any problems. Make sure to keep the charge holes clean due to the shorter rounds causing firing residue.
Arkfarmer
Member
Hi Feller, you don't mention which+P, 38 spc or the +P 357 carbine loads. You also don't mention wether you're referring to hand loads or factory ammo. I can tell you what I personally did, in the 70s . We had a handgun range open up not far from here shooting metallic silhouette out to 200 meters, iorn sights only with a 9in barrel limit. Did not own a coronagraph, young and strong, couldn't afford a fancy 44mag revolver but could afford a Thompson Contender in a 357. 170gr Keith SWC GC and started adding Blue Dot or 2400 till the 200 meter rams started falling over or the action popped open. There was a thin line between the two but I managed to win quite a bit. Acquired a Poness Warren progressive loader and 5K rounds of 357 once fired brass from a buddy who was an Arkansas State Trooper and got after it. Worked out well for a year and the range closed for the winter, during which I reloaded all my brass for spring matches. The range changed hands and reopened as a defensive handgun operation and there I sat with a single shot handgun. My trooper buddy came through with a 4" and a 2" mod 66 and I lost a really nice mod 94 . Already had the ammo loaded so I used it, before I got half way through the 5K rds you could shake the 4" and it actually rattled, had to tighten all the screws before and during the shoot , changed it out for the 2" and before I had used up my ammo it was in worse shape than the 4". In the 40+ yrs since I've learned a little, there's lots of good data available now at the touch of a finger tip, use it! Personally I limit K's to 22K PSI, L's & N's to 38K . I have a few J frames that are marked as 357 mag including the 60-10 3" but I limit them to "hot" 38+P around 27-28 PSI, I've done this for the last 30 years and I don't have any "loose " guns and I shoot quite a bit... just my personal experience... John
Both of these revolvers are chambered in and are perfectly safe with 357 Magnum ammo. All 357 Magnum revolvers can safely chamber and fire 38 Special, whether it is target wadcutter loads, standard pressure, +P, or +P+. Any of the 38 Special loads will produce less velocity and less recoil than 357 Magnum loads, but keep in mind the 38 Special case is shorter than that of the 357 Magnum. Be sure to keep the chambers in the cylinder clean because with much firing of the shorter 38 Special ammo, you will get a build up of residue and carbon in the front of the chambers that will make loading 357 rounds difficult or even impossible.
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