Ultrasonic Cleaning Methods

I recently purchased a ultrasonic cleaner large enough to do a couple of handguns and was wondering if any other members knowledgeable of ultrasonic firearms cleaning, might offer a few tips. I am already familiar with ultrasonic cleaners, how they work, the dangers, and have used them at various times over the years for other work related cleaning, but have never used them to clean firearms.
My questions are:
1...Have you found any particular cleaning solutions that are better at removing typical firearm dirt, crud, carbon, and powder fouling, with no damage to non ferrous metals? The unit I purchased is capable of heating the solution up to 160 deg F. I would expect heavy grease deposits, copper fouling, and leading should removed by normal methods prior to the ultrasonic cleaning.

2..Is there any risk to placing blued guns directly into metal baskets or suspending them from metal hangers? I was wondering if the high frequency vibration generated enough movement to cause finish wear spots at the metal to metal contact points and if any particular method of suspending the gun in the solution is best.

3..Some folks have been known to clean fully assembled revolvers, blow them out with air, and relube them, but I can't help but think that would only relocate, rather than remove, the internal crud. Disassembly seems a much better way. Have you found this to be true?

4..Lubrication immediately after cleaning is a must. My concern here is that the ultrasonic cleaners are known to remove oil from even the most tiny remote and hidden cracks and crevices. There are lube mixtures sold specifically for use in ultrasonic cleaners to relube cleaned guns, but require the cleaner tank be drained, cleaned, and refilled with the lube solution and run again for a few minutes, to relube the gun. Have those of you using ultrasonic cleaners found this to be necessary? I have a 5 gallon dip tank of Ed's Red, and also have water soluble oil from Brownell's that's used to dip guns after hot dip blueing. Perhaps one of those would suffice? Guns going into the safe for long term storage would still get the full treatment I've always used, but I want to make sure I'm not leaving some tiny bit of the internals dry enough to invite some hidden rust down the road. Does anyone know if the ultrasonic specific lubes are sufficient for long term protection?

I'll be posting the same questions on the "other" handgun forum under the same moniker, so no need to respond both places. Thanks in advance for any experience you can share.

I use an ultrasonic cleaner fairly often for many other uses and I know that whatever you choose to use as a solution needs to have low surface viscosity, personally I like windex, it cleans superbly and I have yet to have a problem with it. HOWEVER when you clean a gun in it it wont fully remove all the crud what is left is however VERY loose so just wiping it out is all that is needed

When LAPD was using revolvers, they had an ultrasonic cleaner in each locker room. They used Hoppe’s #9 exclusively. After qualifying, we removed the stocks, suspended the revolver by the trigger guard and hung it into the heated solution for about a half hour, as I remember. When finished we simply removed the revolver, wiped it down, ran a patch through the bore, replaced the stocks, reloaded and carried it until qualifying again one month later.

If at any time the gun looked dry, it was oiled. We were never taught to remove the side plate and were discouraged from doing so.

I do not remember at what point we changed from 158gr LRN to 158gr JSP and I do not remember how well the lead was removed by the ultrasonic cleaner. With jacketed bullets additional cleaning consisted only of wiping down and a patch through the bore.

when we had the shops, we had the ultra-sonic cleaner from 'LPS' and used their cleaning solution, as said above only removed the grips from an "unloaded" gun and hung them up , over night, swabbed them out and lubed 'em up and voila ,clean as can be..........the vibration & heat did the trick.....
now days we just use 'kerosene' , blow 'em out and relube...same thing does the trick...guess you can try and see what works for YOU...
lots of "stuff" out there, blasters, and scrubbers ,much made for firearms, and they do work.....but we prefer the "KISS" principle....besides we are retired and become 'frugal', they can keep ANY & ALL the gimmicks.........

I use my ultrasonic with MPRO7. I do a quick wipe down and clean to remove as much of the loose stuff as possible. I then just dip the whole gun in and run it. I run about 15 minutes in a heated mpro7 and the gun comes out quite hot. Just barely too hot to hold and is "surgically clean". I then scrub the barrel a bit more and wipe it down.

I bought some L&R oil dipping solution to then dip the gun in the oil after I cleaned it, but have not used it. I chose to just oil the tar out of it with the grips pulled and see how that works.

Maybe next time I will do the post cleaning oil dip bath. It is just hard for me to see that any water survived the heat of the cleaning to cause the rust. Maybe I am delusional...

Peter M. Eick said:

.....It is just hard for me to see that any water survived the heat of the cleaning to cause the rust. Maybe I am delusional...

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I totally agree(about water not remaning on the hot metal...not that you are delusional.. ) and should probably clarify the question.....My concern was not that water might remain in the guns, but that some hidden internal nooks and crannies that would be totally devoid of oil after the ultrasonic cleaning, might be difficult to relubricate properly to avoid rust developing in tiny unseen areas that may not be properly recoated with oil when dip lubing a gun without doing a total disassembly. The companies that sell the ultrasonic solutions also sell a special firearm lube to actully use in the ultrasonic tank to relube the gun. I guess there's no question that a few minutes in the ultrasonic lube tank will redistribute the lube to all the same nooks and crannies that were stripped clean. Since some of the ultrasonic gun cleaning processes I've read do not use the ultrasonic relube, I'm wondering if it's really necessary, or if just a non ultrasonic dip tank, like I already have set up, is good enough. Just looking for the best options from folks with ultrasonic cleaner knowledge and experience.

I have been using my ultrasonic cleaner for a few years. I always do an ultrasonic "lube" after cleaning. The lubricant is very expensive relative to the cleaner, but does a great job of removing the water from the handgun.

I do not blow dry my guns with compressed air after the lube. I just wipe them up and reoil them after cleaning. I have never had a problem with rust on any of my blue or stainless guns.

The only thing I have always wondered is about the lockwork in my revolvers. It seems that the ultrasonic cleaning would remove any lube in the lockwork, and it is difficult to relube them without removing the sideplate. I always drop oil into the action, but I worry about the long term effects.

Anybody have any thoughts on the potential problems with the revolver lockwork?

As far as automatics, I don't see any problems whatsoever.

Ok, you guys convinced me. I will set up the unit and run every one of my clean guns through the ultrasonic lube step.

I think in the future I will detail strip the guns more before I clean them.

Peter, do you use the MPro7 more than once? It's quite a bit more expensive than the ultrasonic/water mix I've seen, but I can't help but think it would clean better. I wondering about using it and then "filtering" it in a coffee filter a time or two, looks like I'm about to have access to an ultrasonic.
As for the concerns about hidden rust, our dept. uses a high-pressure steam rig with some type of cleaner (Slip 2000?) mixed with water. I was concerned about hidden pockets of moisture but as the above poster noted, the guns are literally too hot to handle and I don't hesitate to use it followed by heavy oiling. I just can't see how any moisture would survive the heat now, but I was too skeptical to even use it for a while.

Yes I use the Mpro7 over and over again. I filter it through coffee filters (very slow process) and that takes out the gunk and the sort of white plasticity like gel that forms.

If you go to Mpro7's web site, they say to do this in the FAQ's and state that the white gel is due to evaporation and PH changes with use. I will use mine for at least another year or so and then dump it. When it gets done filtering it looks like new again and you can see the bottom of the ultrasonic.

I am just going to oil dip my guns after the ultrasonic runs to be sure. I thought that no water could last given the heat of the gun, but I do see the nooks and cranies as being a problem. In the end it is not that big of a deal. I was just too lazy to do it even though I have L&R oil on the shelf.

Beleive it or not, I use a mix of tranny fluid, synthetic oil, and Coleman camp fuel in my ultrasonic. I almost always detail strip, but I've never put a revolver in, mostly 1911s. I let em in for a while, brush the real gunky stuff with a toothbrush, let em sit in a little more, wipe em down and reassemble.

Somethin just never seemed right to put a gun in water on purpose

I am a jewler and goldsmith. I have had an ultrasonic cleaner for years, and use it for about everything that needs cleaning.

Make sure you get one with a heated tank and a timer.

I have never seen it leave a mark on soft metals like silver or gold.

I use a tablespoon of Simple Green in a quart of hot water. That will clean and degrease a field stripped 1911A1 in 15 minutes.

I put a pan full of cleaned parts into the oven at 135F for 30 minutes, then lube it and reassemble.

Just a side note,

If anyone decides to use Simple Green or similar cleaner, DO NOT PUT ALUMINUM ALLOYS IN IT.

Peter M. Eick said:

I use my ultrasonic with MPRO7. I do a quick wipe down and clean to remove as much of the loose stuff as possible. I then just dip the whole gun in and run it. I run about 15 minutes in a heated mpro7 and the gun comes out quite hot. Just barely too hot to hold and is "surgically clean". I then scrub the barrel a bit more and wipe it down.

I bought some L&R oil dipping solution to then dip the gun in the oil after I cleaned it, but have not used it. I chose to just oil the tar out of it with the grips pulled and see how that works.

Maybe next time I will do the post cleaning oil dip bath. It is just hard for me to see that any water survived the heat of the cleaning to cause the rust. Maybe I am delusional...

Click to expand...

Do you dilute the M Pro7 with water or use it full strength? I read on their website the solution can be diluted up to 1:9, but I was thinking if I use it full strength, there would not be a need to worry about water left in the small parts of a gun.

If you dilute the M Pro7, what concentration do you find works the best for you?

I've used ultrasonic cleaners for several years on my old PD before I retired. We used the non-ammoniated solution from "L&R Manufacturing" which is available through Brownell's. Stuff worked great. But, there were some instances where we would have to hit the "heavy" crud with a brush.

Someone mentioned the lube (also by L&R, and available through Brownells). Good stuff too, although it's really not a "lubricant" as one might think. The lube solution works to disperse any of the water based cleaning solution out of all the "nooks and crannies" (but I wouldn't recommend it for English muffins).

Hope this helped.

I use it full strength. Why dilute it? I am using about $60 worth of mpro7 and I have been routinely cleaning my handguns in it for over a year and a few months now. I am still on the same bottle and have no issues at all. I will probably buy another quart to top off the losses but I will just keep using it.

I find the filter and clean step is really important. Also I keep it bottled up when not in use.

I love my Ultrasonic. Dumb of me not to buy it earlier.

Peter M. Eick said:

I use my ultrasonic with MPRO7. I do a quick wipe down and clean to remove as much of the loose stuff as possible. I then just dip the whole gun in and run it. I run about 15 minutes in a heated mpro7 and the gun comes out quite hot. Just barely too hot to hold and is "surgically clean". I then scrub the barrel a bit more and wipe it down.

I bought some L&R oil dipping solution to then dip the gun in the oil after I cleaned it, but have not used it. I chose to just oil the tar out of it with the grips pulled and see how that works.

Maybe next time I will do the post cleaning oil dip bath. It is just hard for me to see that any water survived the heat of the cleaning to cause the rust. Maybe I am delusional...

Click to expand...

Could you tell me what UC unit you have. Size, power, etc.

Thanks

breyton490 said:

Could you tell me what UC unit you have. Size, power, etc.

Thanks

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This is a great set up... I am very happy with it..however SHOP the price.. it can be had for MUCH, MUCH lower.. but this will give you an idea..

SharperTek Ultrasonic Handgun Cleaner Package




[FONT=arial, helvetica]SharperTek Ultrasonic Handgun Cleaner[/FONT]
[FONT=arial, helvetica]Our new models of ultrasonic handgun cleaners will quickly and effortlessly remove dirt, carbon, and grease from even the most soiled handguns. Ultrasonic waves penetrate deep into those hard-to-reach places for thorough and effortless cleaning. This ultrasonic cleaner saves you the work of cleaning your guns by hand, while restoring the guns to look like new![/FONT]
[FONT=arial, helvetica]All-In-One Handgun Cleaner Package:[/FONT]
[FONT=arial, helvetica]This handgun cleaner package has everything you need to clean your guns and restore them to like-new condition:[/FONT]


[FONT=arial, helvetica]Includes Both Cleaning and Lubricating Solutions: Our safe, non-hazardous solutions will clean your guns and lubricate them evenly, to protect them from rust and make them ready for shooting! Protect your Guns: While our competitors will sell you stainless steel trays and pans to clean your guns on, these will damage your guns when you turn on the ultrasonic vibrations (because of metal-to-metal contact, vibrations could scratch or otherwise damage the guns). However, our polycarbonate trays and pans will not damage your guns! Save Money: Our all-in-one package saves you a bundle over the cost of purchasing each item individually! Additionally, the SharperTek® SH150-4L Ultrasonic Cleaner gives you the most cleaning power for your dollar! Package Contents:

• Polycarbonate Lubricating Pan and Lid − Protect your guns while lubricating them!
• Polycarbonate Cleaning Tray − Protect your guns while cleaning them with the most powerful gun cleaning technology in existence!
• 1 Gallon Ultrasonic Gun Cleaning Solution − Removes dirt, carbon, and grease from even the hardest places to reach by hand!
• 1 Gallon Ultrasonic Gun Lubricating Solution − Environmentally safe gun lubricant protects guns from rust and reduces friction to increase shooting distance and prevent the gun from jamming!
• 1oz Oil with Needle-Point Dispenser − A little extra oil to take with you on the field in case you need it!
• 2 Brushes − 1 Nylon and 1 Brass
• SH150-4L Ultrasonic Cleaner − A powerful multi-purpose heated ultrasonic cleaner that can hold one 6" Revolver or 2 Semi-Automatic Pistols!

Protect Your Guns:[/FONT]
[FONT=arial, helvetica]In order to produce the ultrasonic waves that clean your guns, the ultrasonic transducers make the entire inside of the tank vibrate. This means that if you have guns in there, the constant vibration could scratch or otherwise damage your guns. This is why we use polycarbonate trays and pans in our cleaner. Go with the company that cares for guns the way you do - SharperTek![/FONT]
[FONT=arial, helvetica]Protective Polycarbonate Tray and Pan[/FONT]
[FONT=arial, helvetica]Click on the Images for Close-Up Views Polycarbonate Tray for[/FONT]
[FONT=arial, helvetica]Protective Cleaning[/FONT][FONT=arial, helvetica]Polycarbonate Pan for[/FONT]
[FONT=arial, helvetica]Protective Lubrication[/FONT]


[FONT=arial, helvetica]Ultrasonic Cleaner Specifications:

• Professional Grade Model
• Very Reliable Industrial-Grade Transducer
• Greatly improved in quality, functionality and durability over previous models.
• Engineered and designed in the U.S.A. by SharperTek® − Not a cheap unit!
• Temperature-Regulated Heating Element for Best Cleaning Results
• Digital Ultrasonic Timer
• Ultrasonic Frequency: 40,000 Hz
• Tank Material: Stainless Steel
• Power Supply: AC 100 ~ 120V, 50 / 60Hz
• Power: 750 W
• Tank Capacity: 4 Liters (approx. 1 Gallon)
• Tank Dimensions: 12" × 6" × 3.75" (L × W × H)
• Unit Dimensions: 13" × 7.7" × 10" ( L × W × H )
• Timer: Digital Ultrasonic Timer
• Weight: 10.5 lb
• Warranty: 2 years

​

Options:

1. Basic Package: Everything Described Above - excellent package for hobbyists and professionals alike!
2. Larger Tank: Upgrades from the SH150-4Lto the SH150-6L - this tank can hold up to 4 pistols, instead of 2! This also comes with a 1.5 gallon lubricating pan, instead of a 1 gallon pan, and it also comes with an extra gallon of gun lubricant!
3. Professional Package: Adds a second SH150-4L, with a second polycarbonate tray, so that you can clean guns in one tank, and lubricate in the other! This option also adds a second gallon of gun lubricant!

[/FONT]

My unit is a big beasty thing. It is a stullersonic and I bought it factory rebuilt. I bought the 1.5 gallon unit so I can get a big revolver in. My 5" Heavy duty's are completely submerged. Only my 8 3/8" Pre27's stick out. It has a heater that goes to around 140 so the guns come out hot. I don't like to handle them right out of the cleaner because they are too hot.

I spent $450(? may have been 400) on mine but I was shocked to see what a new one would run. It was many times that!

This is the closest I can find to mine but mine is still more powerful:

Stuller.com: 23-5940 - Elma® X-tra 70H Ultrasonic

Make sure you get one with a drain valve. Invaluable resource. I have a ball valve and a trun down spigot to I can aim it at the bottle. I use a big funnel and coffee filters to remove the slime from the mpro7 after running it through.

My final comment is I was absolutely stupid to wait as long as I did to buy mine. They are amazing how well they will clean your guns.

Peter M. Eick said:

My unit is a big beasty thing. It is a stullersonic and I bought it factory rebuilt. I bought the 1.5 gallon unit so I can get a big revolver in. My 5" Heavy duty's are completely submerged. Only my 8 3/8" Pre27's stick out. It has a heater that goes to around 140 so the guns come out hot. I don't like to handle them right out of the cleaner because they are too hot.

I spent $450(? may have been 400) on mine but I was shocked to see what a new one would run. It was many times that!

This is the closest I can find to mine but mine is still more powerful:

Stuller.com: 23-5940 - Elma® X-tra 70H Ultrasonic

Make sure you get one with a drain valve. Invaluable resource. I have a ball valve and a trun down spigot to I can aim it at the bottle. I use a big funnel and coffee filters to remove the slime from the mpro7 after running it through.

My final comment is I was absolutely stupid to wait as long as I did to buy mine. They are amazing how well they will clean your guns.

Click to expand...

Make sure you get one with a drain valve. Invaluable resource.

Great advice...