1911 Guide Rod Question

Milly

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I have a SW1911Sc (SKU 108310). During field stripping I found that it has a very short guide rod installed. It is around 2" to 2.5" long. I have seen that other 1911's have longer guide rods. Is there any advantage to finding a longer guide rod to install in this gun? Thank you in advance for any help.

Here is a picture of the gun in question:
 
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Some believe the FLGR makes for a more accurate gun.I only have one 1911 that came with a FLGR,the rest of my guns use the GI type and I can't tell a bit of difference except the longer type is a bit harder to take down and reassemble.I think you can get one for about $25 to try it out.
 
The guide rod doesn't guide anything but the spring. Some pistols have guide rods made of plastic. The full length guide rod will likely help keep the spring from kinking but is unlikely to have any impact on accuracy unless you shoot better with a slightly more muzzle heavy pistol.
 
Milly,I shot a Colt Combat C.C.,.45 A C P (older unit,mid-70) with the standard G I guide rod, probably similar to your Smith, and it was brutal in felt recoil. While I did not get "hammer bite", the left side frame tang drove into the web of my hand to the point of drawing blood. I installed a FLGR, which requires a new recoil spring plug as well, and there was,to my mind, a less "sharp" feeling to the recoil, and, no more blood. Perhaps that was due to the slightly more muzzle heavy feel. I then added the Wilson Combat "shock-buff" plastic device, which supposedly reduces a little of the battering affect on your slide operation, which in theory would lessen the felt recoil. No help, and in fact, there was a return to the sharp recoil feeling??? I removed the shock washer, but kept the FLGR....... As several other posts have stated, the guide rod is for guiding the recoil spring, and for me, no effect on accuracy. More importantly than the size of the guide rod is to make sure the tighter coils of the spring are pushed firmly onto the rod. Installed the other way can lead to spring binding, "they" say, but fully half of the 1911 platform semi-autos I have disassembled, had the spring in backward, with seemingly no effect... Nice Smith ! Regards
 
I like to use a FLGR on a government model, because I prefer the modest weight forward and the look/feel. I highly doubt it will make your 1911 more reilable UNLESS your slide to frame fit is poor on an older high round count pistol.
 
All my 1911's have the standard GI type guide rods and most of my friends 1911's have the Full Length Guide Rods in theirs. Truthfully, I can NOT tell the difference or see any advantage of one over the other. My personal feeling is it's more "schtick" than much else, but I am sure there are guys who have their preferences one way or the other.
 
There's not enough space inside a 1911 for the spring to kink. FLGR's are put in some pistols because of shooter desires. Somewhere back when, the top shooter's in IPSC started using them, so in the mind of most of the lesser competitors, they had to help.

I remove them and replace them with GI. If you need to, you can one handed push-cock the pistol. The FLGR prevents this. I've never had much luck trying to cock a 1911 by catching the rear sight on the holster or my belt.
 
The only "Benefit" I have found in a full length guide rod assembly is the hassle of removing the spring bushing in order to clean the pistol. ;)
 
On my norinco 1911 build/project pistol in 45acp when I installed the 18# recoil spring with the original usgi short spring guide I could hear the spring coiling and binding as I pulled the slide back slowly. I then installed the full length guide rod and the spring noise is eliminated. I also find the 1911 cycles faster with less over travel with the 18# recoil spring. Plus it has less recoil jump too.

One more problem with the 1911 I notice is the front wear on the frame rails on most of the used 1911's that I look at. I figure without the FLGR the side to side horizontal forces from the recoil spring binding could be the only thing that causes this to happen.I installed the FLGR on all my new 1911's and they show no wear yet at the front frame rail section with 500rds on one of my new 1911's. I can't see any other thing that can cause this wear on the front frame rails. The slide has a horizontal movement at the front section of the frame rails. In most cases when I Mic the frame rails the wear seems to be in the slide.

Note, I do not own a s&w 1911 yet. My 1911's so far are the other brands. Bigbill

Btw, with the extra weight up front with the FLGR I notice my recoil is now about 2" max if that straight up. The 1911 is very comfortable to shoot and it's accurate too. I also did the disconnected ramp too. If you disassemble the 1911 and put the slide on empty you can feel a bump when the slide hits the disconnected below the firing pin hole. Once the ramp is machined or filed in very carefully this interruption, bump is gone.

I haven't seen nor inspected a used s&w1911 for wear yet. The used s&w are harder to find here.
 
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I also lube the recoil spring on the FLGR with moly. It reduces friction and eliminates wear.
 
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