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S&W-Smithing Maintenance, Repair, and Enhancement of Smith & Wesson and Other Firearms.


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Old 03-13-2014, 09:27 PM
gdog357 gdog357 is offline
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Default brush for cylinder

I know if you shoot alot of 38 in A 357 you end up with A ring in the cylinder. what size bore brush is needed to remove these. Thks
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:52 PM
Hapworth Hapworth is offline
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For the cylinder chambers only (not the bore), going a size up to a .40 caliber bronze brush helps considerably.

(Stay with a proper .38/.357 bronze brush for the bore.)
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:06 PM
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BlackTalonJHP BlackTalonJHP is offline
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A 357 case with the mouth belled out slightly can be used as a scraper
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:50 PM
tomcatt51 tomcatt51 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hapworth View Post
For the cylinder chambers only (not the bore), going a size up to a .40 caliber bronze brush helps considerably.
Yep and screw it into a section of cleaning rod chucked in a drill motor. Use a liberal dose of powder solvent and ONLY clean the chambers this way.
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Old 03-14-2014, 12:54 AM
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TucsonMTB TucsonMTB is offline
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I only shoot 38 special in the titanium 357 magnum cylinder installed in my 642-1, for obvious reasons.

In my experience, if you keep after it, all you need is a standard Otis #38 Rifle/Pistol Bore Brush.

I run the brush through each charge hole three to five times at the end of a typical 50 round session before leaving the range. When you look in the charge holes they are spotless and shiny their full length following that small amount of cleaning.

After all, it is my pocket carry gun and needs to go back to work. I prefer to carry a clean revolver.



Edited to add: Mr. Chief38's comment about larger and stiffer brushes not lasting long prompts me to mention that, although I bought a package of 10, I am still on the first brush that i unpacked. The Otis standard brushes seem to last a long time compared to everything else I have tried. YMMV

Last edited by TucsonMTB; 03-14-2014 at 06:00 AM. Reason: Added an additional thought
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Old 03-14-2014, 05:52 AM
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chief38 chief38 is offline
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Brownell's makes Chamber Brushes that I use for the Cylinders ONLY. They are slightly oversized and seem a bit stiffer than normal Bore Brushes. I use the Rifle sized brushes because of the extra bristles, longer length, and more scrubbing power per stroke. Since you go all the way through before reversing direction the extra length does not hinder anything and actually helps quite a bit. I but them buy the dozen because they do not last very long. Because they are a bit tighter I get only a few cleanings out of each one before they shed their bristles. Even though they are short lived, they make cleaning a real breeze.

A Lewis Lead Remover (Brownell's) is essential for any real revolver shooter. A few passes will quickly and safely remove anything a chamber brush won't and also keeps your barrel and forcing cones lead free.
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Old 03-14-2014, 07:43 PM
dfariswheel dfariswheel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chief38 View Post
Brownell's makes Chamber Brushes that I use for the Cylinders ONLY. They are slightly oversized and seem a bit stiffer than normal Bore Brushes. I use the Rifle sized brushes because of the extra bristles, longer length, and more scrubbing power per stroke. Since you go all the way through before reversing direction the extra length does not hinder anything and actually helps quite a bit. I but them buy the dozen because they do not last very long. Because they are a bit tighter I get only a few cleanings out of each one before they shed their bristles. Even though they are short lived, they make cleaning a real breeze.

A Lewis Lead Remover (Brownell's) is essential for any real revolver shooter. A few passes will quickly and safely remove anything a chamber brush won't and also keeps your barrel and forcing cones lead free.
THIS is the correct answer.
You don't use the more flexible bore brushes, even over-caliber brushes to clean chambers, you use bronze chamber brushes.
These are not only over-sized, they're made of extra stiff bristles.
They don't need to be spun in a drill either.

To use, just "screw" the brush into the chamber until about 1/3rd of it's sticking out the front, then rotate the brush 2 to 3 turns, push the rest of the way through, then pull back out.
This will remove most any fouling in one pass.

BRONZE RIFLE/PISTOL CHAMBER BRUSHES | Brownells
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Old 03-14-2014, 08:43 PM
Nick B Nick B is offline
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For.38/.357 I bought some .375 rifle bore brushes and they work great .
The Brownell chamber brushes are junk . The bristles start to fall out with the first pass through . After doing two chambers the brush was 3/4 bald .
Another review on Brownells website said the same thing .
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Old 03-14-2014, 08:55 PM
jepp2 jepp2 is offline
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Quote:
The Brownell chamber brushes are junk .
That hasn't been my experience. But I use them differently. I don't use the forward and backward stroke. They are too stiff and bending the bristles as them re-enter the cylinder will break the wires off.

I run them on low speed on a battery powered drill. The rotation cuts through the crud and doesn't abuse the wires. I am still on my first brush of the 10 pack, and no wires broken off. And I soak everything with Ed's Red for around 24 hours before cleaning. This soften up the carbon and it comes off very easily. Do Not use these in the barrel. They are longer like a rifle bore brush.
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