Loctite Guide

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I've posted this here a few times prior to this post. I love and use Locktite all the time - - - - but NEVER on guns! Motorcycles, cars, machinery, equipment but NOT on firearms. I have been shooting all kinds of firearms for 50 years and can never remember a gun just coming apart (assuming it's checked from time to time). The only guns I do routinely check prior to shooting them are my Colt SAA's. They say "if you shoot a Colt SAA carry a screwdriver". Other than that, properly tightened gun screws don't just loosen up all of a sudden. I do go over all the screws on a firearm every so often and can't remember ever seeing one about to fall out. Same thing with Revolver Ejector Rods - if properly tightened, I have never had any problems with them loosening up in the field or Range. YES - I have had them come loose when out of the box from the Factory or when newly acquired by me but after I completely disassemble, clean and check out any new gun I get (new or used) I have not had any loosening problems. NEVER rely on the Factory, Performance Center, Gunsmith or previous owner to assemble and maintain a gun correctly! ALWAYS go over it yourself when you receive it and from time to time when cleaning it.

Previous Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance ( the 6 P's my old man used to fondly repeat all the time ). :eek:
 
Gosh I use Loctite all the time on guns!

Bead/fiber optic/tritium front sights on shotguns. Not a whole lot of threads holding it on there.

Green (penetrating) is just the thing for scope mounts on zeroed rifles. You don't have to take everything off and re-zero. It's almost as strong as Red so you have to be pretty darn sure you're not going to go with a different set of rings/mount. I haven't used it with the actual screws holding a scope to a mount since I do have the habit of moving my optics around. When installing for the first time I usually use Blue.

Author of the linked article is right --- Blue or Red is great for 1911 grip bushings. The comments are also right, Loctite is great for screws in holsters.

Seems like most of the parts of my house either have Loctite or lithium grease on them :)
 
Used it twice on guns. The rear sight assembly on my M-1 carbine would always get loose no matter how tight I thought it was. When you suddenly start hitting 8 inches to the left you figure something is wrong. On a S&W PC 952 the barrel bushing tended to unscrew itself. Didn't affect the accuracy but I was afraid it might go missing if it completely came loose. A little red Loctite solved both those problems.
 
Loctite Removal

Besides knowing which formulation to use, you must also know how to undo it if necessary. Hold a heated screwdriver blade or Allen wrench into the screw slot. Do this several times. The heat will transfer to the screw, softening the Loctite and enabling you to unscrew the screw without destroying it.
 
Thread locker can be used to damage something just about as easily, and almost as quickly, as a "moto-tool". :eek:

You just may not realize it as soon. ;)

Peening, staking, thread locker, filing, stoning ... and the dreaded "P" word (polish) ... all ought to be approached with a healthy amount of caution, respect and even 2nd, 3rd & 4th thoughts.
 
Loctite is very useful if used properly.I had an early Smith Mod 67 that had a slightly loose trigger stud.The factory had swaged the stud in place but there was the slightest fore and aft motion that could be detected as the trigger was pulled.I used some Loctite Green 290 that is useful after assembly of various parts and after letting it set I had no more problem.It is wicking grade Loctite and will flow into small irregularities and set the surface to surface contact much better.
I do agree that there are simpler ways to "fix" various wayward screws that make assembly easier but some Loctite is very useful.
 
I have used loctite with varying results on scope mounts. Turned out with a failed application that I had to lap the scope rings. Anyway, I read somewhere that gun solvent will dissolve loctite eventually so I applied some liberally to some strong red loctite on some very small screws. It worked after a few days. I know I would have busted some of those screws if I hadn't done this.
 
colt_saa said:
I use loctite on may items.

S&W revolvers have left the factory with loctite on them for decades now.

I can see no reason not to use it on handguns.
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YES, S&W does use some sort of thread locker but I do not believe it is Locktite. Typically you see it on the Yoke Screw but I never put a yoke screw back without removing the thread locker first. I ALWAYS remove the cylinder for cleaning after shooting it as I find it creates a lost less stress on the yoke and allows for a much better cylinder cleaning job with no scratching.
 
hkcavalier said:
Gosh I use Loctite all the time on guns!

Bead/fiber optic/tritium front sights on shotguns. Not a whole lot of threads holding it on there.

Green (penetrating) is just the thing for scope mounts on zeroed rifles. You don't have to take everything off and re-zero. It's almost as strong as Red so you have to be pretty darn sure you're not going to go with a different set of rings/mount. I haven't used it with the actual screws holding a scope to a mount since I do have the habit of moving my optics around. When installing for the first time I usually use Blue.

Author of the linked article is right --- Blue or Red is great for 1911 grip bushings. The comments are also right, Loctite is great for screws in holsters.

Seems like most of the parts of my house either have Loctite or lithium grease on them :)
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hkcavalier said:
PERMANENTLY installed parts such as sights or grip bushings I can see using Locktite on, although typically 1911 grip bushings are staked on the frame. Without a proper staking tool or the experience, yea, Locktite will get it done.

When I was referring to NO Locktite on firearms I guess I should have been more specific and stated that I never use it on what I deem "removable parts" such as screws, nuts, ejector rods, etc.
as I do routinely remove and disassemble these parts for maintenance and/or lubrication. Sights and permanent bushings I could see it being used. Again, even on a fine threaded Ejector Rod - when properly cleaned and assembled I've never had them just arbitrarily come loose. From the Factory - - YES but that's when it needs to be installed PROPERLY.
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PS:

MOST manufacturers (in my experience) use other brands of thread lockers other than Locktite more than likely for cost savings.

The Thread Locker Smith has used in the past has been a very low "gummy red" locker substance and I do not believe it to be Locktite. It has a very low locking ability and seems much thicker than LT.

Harley Davidson uses some sort of Yellow thread locker that has worked very well and again I do not think it's a Locktite branded substance. Motorcycles are notorious for having screws and bolts back out due to the constant vibration and terrible roads. I use Locktite all the time when working on the Harley.

Just a side note ...........
 
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If I had to say a good 'Rule Of Thumb' I'd follow Chief's advice. My gunsmith schooling days and following years in the biz losing money taught me to keep Loctite ( blue, red, etc ) away from S&W revolver parts except setting strain screws, custom trigger stop screws and custom scope or rib screws.

My experience has proven more extractor rod threads are stretched and ruined by thread lockers than ham fisted do-it-to-yourselves turning the wrong way or more often over-torquing. In fact most of the posters here that have re-occurring extractor rods backing out will find it may well be due to stretched threads. These rods are properly set up at 50 inch pounds--no more. Occasionally you'll find swap barrels set up so hard with thread locker compound that frame wreckage is possible breaking them free but not frequently.
 
For those of you who insist on using Loctite thread lockers, please download this little pdf from Loctite about which one to use. http://tinyurl.com/n9mgquw
For the rare time you think you need loctite, purple is your friend. That covers up to 1/4" bolts for low torque situations (S&W revolvers). I don't seem to remember anything larger than 1/4" that might vibrate loose on a Smith.
30 years a Mercedes-Benz mechanic and 3 years a military depot level small arms repairman.
 
271 has saved many a 1911 grip screw bushing when it came out of the frame with the stocks still attached. Chemical cleaning of the threads on bushing and frame, 271 and half an hour to let it set up properly and the screws would come right out. Proper staking of the bushing should follow.

I'd also been known to use 271 on 1911 trigger over travel screws where the customer had a tendency to re-adjust them after being told to keep their hands off. [Then they'd whine about poor groups, locked firing pins and lousy trigger pulls after peening the firing pin plunger & pin and/or chipping the sear.]
 
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