I'm asking for recommendations from forum members who have replaced the grip screw bushings for a full size 1911.

I am considering buying another new full-size 1911 but it was manufactured with "uglier than sin", thin-line, dual ambi G-10 grips. I have called the manufacturer and they have full-size Cocobolo dual-ambi grips but I'll need to replace the grip screw bushings. I've already checked out the process on You Tube and I like the handy tool that is available from Brownells.

1911 Grip Bushing Extractor, Standard : CHALLIS GRIPS 1911 GRIP BUSHING EXTRACTOR | Brownells

The only unanswered question that I have is whether or not to use blue Loctite for the bushing screw threads. My initial impression is "Yes". If the bushings become loose, it could be impossible to remove the grip screws.

Has anyone dealt with this issue in the past or have experience, pro or con?

Many thanks for taking the time to respond.

Bill

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That's what we do!

Properly installed grip screw bushings are staked after being tightened. There's a staking tool and the punch goes in through the opposing bushing. Also available from Brownells (replacable head on the same page as the extractor). Be sure to properly support the bushing while staking.

Loc-Tite is no substitute for proper staking.

What I found to work when the bushings (unstaked/poorly staked) came out with the screw was to hit the bushing threads and frame threads with a degreaser (brake klean/acetone etc.) and let that dry. Apply red Loc-Tite sparingly to the threads in the frame and install the bushing-tightly. Wait 15-30 minutes and remove the screw.

Wondering why the shorter grip bushings aren't good enough to hold the thicker grips on the frame.
Aren't they just a little shorter in height and a turn or two less thread engagement of the grip screw?

Anyway,,if you pull the old ones out, and put the taller ones in and are just going to leave it at that and not make a living doing it, I'd just put the new ones in with red locktite and be done with it.
Staking is the proper method and was from the start, but they've always given problems loosening up and turning with the grip screw(s).

To make them a non-problem, non-removeable part of the frame easily, I'd use permanent Locktite.
Not like you're going to take them out for cleaning.
Save yourself the cost of the staking tools that'll never get used again in your lifetime I'm guessing.
Just my opinion of course.

I agree with using red lock tite but make sure that you DO NOT get any on the screw threads. If you ever need to remove the locktited bushings a soldering iron will heat them enough to melt the locktite.
You will need standard size bushings and standard screws. The challis tool is a God send for removing the old bushings ,make sure that you get the correct size for the bushings .Thin bushings don't work well with standard size grips
use the proper size to get the job done .Another thought is your gun an aluminum frame ,if so be extra careful removing the bushings ,because they can strip the the threads in the frame.

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age is just a number

Brownells also sells oversized grip screw bushings and a tap incase you end up with stripped threads when the bushings that were staked are taken out. The idea that staking is better than Loctite is a question not easily answered, but I can tell you that the idea if staking them came decades before Loctite was around.

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Billy
Gunsmith, M/C mechanic

I guess it depends on the gun and your intended use. If you will never change the grips, then Loctite Red will do it for sure.

The staking method has been around since the invention I believe. The page from the 1964 TM on the 1911A1 shows the method and the tool. It isn't that complicated.

Several years ago I watched a negotiation at a gun show for a Colt 1911A1 being offered as "collector grade" and when the grips were removed (by the Seller) in order to verify that they were genuine "Coltwood" and not Keyes Fiber. a teeny, tiny, barely visible dot of red around one of the 4 grip bushings, dropped the potential buyer right out of the running, and I left too......wasn't worth it.

If you do use the Loctite Red, use very little on the end of a toothpick and just touch the tip of the bushing thread and don't "coat" the full thread depth....you don't need a lot!

Attached Files

	cover 45 Tech.pdf (15.1 KB, 16 views)
	Page 36.pdf (35.2 KB, 17 views)

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Charlie B
SWCA#3083, SWHF#570

I've used blue LocTite on all gun applications, from mounting scopes to 1911 grip screw bushings. It worked (and still works today) holding threaded hardware in place.

Staking in the Grip Bushings really require a tool to do properly and Blue Locktite is probably the way to go if yo do not have that tool. I know I am usually against using any Locktite on any firearm, but this is one of the exceptions in my opinion especially since it is in an area that is relatively easy to get at when removal is required. JUST USE A DROP of the BLUE after cleaning male & female threads off with Alcohol. Let set for a half dozen hours before installing Grip Screws.

My thanks to everyone who took the time to respond and to provide us with information from their knowledge and experience. I believe that the response from chief38 will work best for me.

This new 1911 is made by Springfield Armory, model PI9128ER. I called the SA Customer Service yesterday and the rep informed me that their factory uses blue Loctite (and not staking) in the production of this model. The rep also stated that a hair dryer, which I already have, will provide sufficient heat to make the existing thin line grip screws easily removable. Several years ago now (where does the time go when we're retired??) I purchased a Magna Tip screwdriver set from Brownells:

BROWNELLS MAGNA-TIP SUPER SETS™ | Brownells

According to the technical rep at Brownells, I have the correct blade to remove the old grip screw bushing, and install the new one. I will not need to purchase any special tools.

At my age, I am sure that I will need to begin selling my collection in the coming years and may need to re-install the G-10 thin line grips and bushings.

Bill

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That's what we do!

Again, in contrast to my usual no - Locktite usage on guns, the average 1911 owner who is only fixing his own pistol need not buy staking tools just for one or two guns. The Locktite is much easier, less expensive, almost fool-proof and readily available. It will also be a long lived fix if prepared properly.

NOTE: It has been my experience over the years that Factory staked Grip Bushings do eventually come loose. It has also been my experience that the Blue Locktite lasts longer than staking does.