RightWinger
Member
I was on the Wolff spring website and noticed they sell extra power cylinder stop springs, is there any benefit to this or will it just make a deeper drag line in your cylinder?
Extra power cylinder stop spring??
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RightWinger
Member
I was on the Wolff spring website and noticed they sell extra power cylinder stop springs, is there any benefit to this or will it just make a deeper drag line in your cylinder?
The problem I've had is cramming them in between the cylinder stop and the frame. To me, they do not work well at all on the three screw models. However, If it is a four or five screw, they fit great over the little pin and replace the old stop spring.
bountyhunter
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Unless the cylinder is skipping (slipping past the lock notch) I don't know why you need an extra power spring. If it is skipping, it usually means the cylinder notches are peened and/or the cylinder stop needs to be replaced.
I have owned many S&W revolvers over the last 60 years, and have never seen the need for other than factory springs in any of my Smiths.
In 16 years owning a full line gun store, I never replaced a cylinder lock spring for any reason.
In 16 years owning a full line gun store, I never replaced a cylinder lock spring for any reason.
Funny, I was looking for a heavier spring a few years ago when I was having trouble with the cyl latch snapping in. Couldn't find one, so I just spent a lot of time polishing everything until the cyl stop worked sweet.
I bought a used 649 that had brutally stiff springs all the way around. Every time I tried a light one, something stopped working well. Hard to really work the gun to get it to live with softer springs.
Guess I'm trying to say sometimes heavy springs are a way of hiding problems.
-Armen
I bought a used 649 that had brutally stiff springs all the way around. Every time I tried a light one, something stopped working well. Hard to really work the gun to get it to live with softer springs.
Guess I'm trying to say sometimes heavy springs are a way of hiding problems.
-Armen
They work pretty well with cylinders that have a little wear in the notches in my experience.
Also, they "tighten" up the whole action for me. I have one in my old Model 10-5. The entire action is a little tighter if you get what I mean. I like how it made the action feel with a slightly reduced power rebound spring and mainspring.
(That combination of springs felt the best to me after trial and error. Plus, the cylinder stop, with the heavier spring, works better in this old, fairly heavily used gun.)
Just a personal preference on my "mixing-up" of the springs for me, but I think the main purpose is to make the cylinder stop "grab" the notches better in cylinders that have a little wear in the notches. (Maybe a gunsmith can weigh in on this?)
Edit: Alot of guys buy an oversized cylinder stop or just buy a new cylinder stop to solve wear problems on the cylinder and/or wear on the old cylinder stop. (Cylinder stops can get worn down also from my experience.)
Also, they "tighten" up the whole action for me. I have one in my old Model 10-5. The entire action is a little tighter if you get what I mean. I like how it made the action feel with a slightly reduced power rebound spring and mainspring.
(That combination of springs felt the best to me after trial and error. Plus, the cylinder stop, with the heavier spring, works better in this old, fairly heavily used gun.)
Just a personal preference on my "mixing-up" of the springs for me, but I think the main purpose is to make the cylinder stop "grab" the notches better in cylinders that have a little wear in the notches. (Maybe a gunsmith can weigh in on this?)
Edit: Alot of guys buy an oversized cylinder stop or just buy a new cylinder stop to solve wear problems on the cylinder and/or wear on the old cylinder stop. (Cylinder stops can get worn down also from my experience.)
The problem is not usually the cylinder stop.
Two possible problems both caused by same action.
Opening up of the CS Window, and opening up of the cylinder window. both cause by RAPID cylinder movement. More so with cylinders W/O flutes.
One of the big reasons I like Ti cylinders, less weight, and they wear better.
Two possible problems both caused by same action.
Opening up of the CS Window, and opening up of the cylinder window. both cause by RAPID cylinder movement. More so with cylinders W/O flutes.
One of the big reasons I like Ti cylinders, less weight, and they wear better.
