cleaning up 1006 trigger?

bottlerocket

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Bought a witness and wanted to try S&W so I picked up this 1006 from the LLGS. No exaggeration this is the second worst trigger on any gun I own with the mosin nagant being the worst. I love the feel of the gun but how can I clean this trigger up? The DA pull isn't bad but the SA is notchy as hell and unnecessarily heavy.
 
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Also, obligatory photo of my 10mm's:
IMAG0145.jpg
 
That is strange, my 1006 has a great trigger. May want to check the internals.
 
"Notchy as all hell"... at some point in the travel is it making a clicking noise too? Then as BruceB said... trigger play spring.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...s/74227-new-me-4566-has-clicking-problem.html

I have 6 3rd gen pistols and the only one that fit that description was a 4006 without that spring when I bought it.

Yep, the single action is great on a follow up shot if I only let it just past the reset. But a full length SA pull has 1 or 2 clicks in it and is very vague. IMHO the SA pull is too heavy as well but that I think is a different issue completely.
 
1006 Trigger

AS others have stated, your best bet is to send to Wayne Novak, S&W Performance Center is a close second. It is said Wayne Novak had a hand in designing the 1006
 
AS others have stated, your best bet is to send to Wayne Novak, S&W Performance Center is a close second. It is said Wayne Novak had a hand in designing the 1006


Your best bet is to dump it. I wouldn't normally offer to buy such a piece of junk but anything to help out another forum member. I will give you $100 and just to show what a nice guy I am I will pick up the shipping....
 
Your best bet is to dump it. I wouldn't normally offer to buy such a piece of junk but anything to help out another forum member. I will give you $100 and just to show what a nice guy I am I will pick up the shipping....

I will give you $105.00 plus shipping just 'cause I'm nicer than that Ethang guy...:D
 
LOL at the deal makers, I have a Performance Center 40 cal and its trigger is just as good as on par with my Novak's DA/SA trigger job 1076. The pull is as smooth on either gun so I would say the work would be about equal. I believe though that Wayne Novak is about the best I have ever seen for Hi Powers and 3rd gen smiths. I will probably send them in a 1911 before long. They do good work.

What I found out before is that the guns would tend to drift off target with a heavy pull but with either PC or Novak work, it smooths it out enough to stay on target with the first DA pull of the trigger.
 
Just saying.... I'm sure Novak will make a really beautiful trigger. My take on this is. Take your time and learn to take the 1006 down to "parade rest" and clean, "smooth" file any and all jagged edges off the sear, dis-connector, and trigger's catch on the trigger bar. I might change the trigger plunger spring to the 3rd gen 2.5 competitive spring from Wolf and lower the hammer spring a pound or two. On top of that, don't just oil the sear, dis-connector,and hammer spring. Use a good quality gun grease on the parts that touch (wear). Shy of this advice, keep oiling and greasing the slide "wear spots" - shoot 500 to 1000 rounds and she'll loosen up - at this point all advice above may be moot.
 
Not trying to hijack thread, but given the options of trigger work by Novak vs Performance Center, which one would involve less shipping/freight charges? Novak's site says that charges to ship pistol back to you could be $60-$80.

This, of course, does not cover charges to get it to them. Would shipping charges to/from S&W be the same for non-warranty work?
 
I will give you $105.00 plus shipping just 'cause I'm nicer than that Ethang guy...:D

You can't outbid my niceness..I am way nicer then that...

And just to actually offer up some advice I will second or third the trigger play spring. I bent my 4506 spring once and it was a noticeable difference in the trigger pull.
 
Just saying.... I'm sure Novak will make a really beautiful trigger. My take on this is. Take your time and learn to take the 1006 down to "parade rest" and clean, "smooth" file any and all jagged edges off the sear, dis-connector, and trigger's catch on the trigger bar. I might change the trigger plunger spring to the 3rd gen 2.5 competitive spring from Wolf and lower the hammer spring a pound or two. On top of that, don't just oil the sear, dis-connector,and hammer spring. Use a good quality gun grease on the parts that touch (wear). Shy of this advice, keep oiling and greasing the slide "wear spots" - shoot 500 to 1000 rounds and she'll loosen up - at this point all advice above may be moot.

I really have zero experience in gun smithing on this level. I have built a few ARs and adjusted the trigger on my Savage, but filing surfaces is beyond my knowledge and I'd really rather not learn on a gun such as this. I could change out springs but not sure that would fix everything.

Also called Novak and they are "not accepting any new guns" at the moment.
 
I really have zero experience in gun smithing on this level. I have built a few ARs and adjusted the trigger on my Savage, but filing surfaces is beyond my knowledge and I'd really rather not learn on a gun such as this. I could change out springs but not sure that would fix everything.

Also called Novak and they are "not accepting any new guns" at the moment.


that sucks, yeah it is kind of crazy right now.
 
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