M910 Slide learning project

guzzitaco

guzzitaco

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Hi guys,

Got home last Friday after two very frustrating days at work with no sales and lots of rain.

I have a M910 slide around and since I can not watch another Netflix series (where all are narcos, thieves and/or scammers and somehow we are rooting for them), I decided to spend some time in the "craft room" (range remains closed).

Please bare with me and be patient...

Background:
I bought my first S&W semi-auto, a M6906, in late 2018. I wanted a single side safety, so I started looking around. I contacted Noncents, and he suggested that maybe the best way forward would be to get a M910 slide...so I did.

I harvested the single side safety, sold the barrel, the guide rod, harvested the extractor pin (ended making money on the project)...and I was left with a bare slide...

The project
Since I do not own a M910 nor have a frame that fits this slide I wanted to see if I could "fix" it, but this time without the pressure that "I am going to mess it up..."

This is what I started with:


As you can see the slide has an ugly brown color, there are a lot of tooling marks on the top and has some rust spots...

So, I decided to try to remove the tooling marks from the top. I started to work on a marble flat stone and 320 grit paper.








some marks were deep...



Finally...the top of the slide was "smooth"

more to come...
 
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Your posts are very instructive. One silly question, how do you keep the sand paper on the marble?

I have three Value Line slides. Like you, I grabbed them for the single side safety levers. I should probably try my hand at stripping them down completely to see if I can do that without damage.
 
sandpaper on marble

GaryS said:
Your posts are very instructive. One silly question, how do you keep the sand paper on the marble?

I have three Value Line slides. Like you, I grabbed them for the single side safety levers. I should probably try my hand at stripping them down completely to see if I can do that without damage.
Click to expand...

Hi Gary,

I wet the sandpaper...the water between the flat surface of the marble create sort of a suction and the paper does not move or moves very little... (cohesion and adhesion of water I think is called)

Also, I use a couple of drops of dishwashing soap (on the sandpaper) to keep the steel particles suspended and that way the sandpaper last a bit longer... (BMCM's trick)

I am using marble instead a a granite slab, because I have a smaller marble piece that fits inside a plastic container I can work on my bench instead of using the kitchen sink... (helps to keep a good relationship with the wife) :D
 
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to cut or not ...there is the question...

After top was ready, I removed the bluing using Navy Jelly, not my favorite rust remover, but it is the one on hand. I wanted to see the other "spots" on the slide, and may times the bluing covers them partially.





The plan was simple, I wanted to address the imperfections and do a hot bluing job, but with matte flats.

However, researching old threads, I stumbled into one of squidsix, where he shows some high-power cuts he did to a M915 slide…

This is the thread: Hi Power cuts on 915 slide

That got me thinking…can I make high-power cuts to this slide? Nah… the huge front sight would interfere and could look distorted. Also, the frame of the M910 is thicker than the M915 on the dustcover area, so there wouldn't be enough space…

But what about carry-cuts? I have space for those…given the frame thickness, they couldn't be deeper than the back serrations, but there is space…and it could look great…maybe deep enough to do a press check…maybe…





(I understand that not everybody likes them...but please remember I am learning with this)

The question was how to do them…I only have hand files…and the cuts need to be precise…

I started to research online, I found a video of a guy doing front serrations on his 1911 with a flat file and a vise.

The front serrations he was doing are flat, not in angle like the ones on a S&W 3rd gen (I think they are called broached serrations). However, the technique was there.

I needed to buy a new file...

more to come...
 
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I actually started my project slide cuts because there was a badly pitted area on the front of the slide. The first cut lined up pretty well. I used a nylon cutting board cut lengthwise and clamped to the slide, marking each serration one at a time by moving the nylon block from one rear serration to the next, scribing a line forward, repeat.
The cuts didnt do enough to make the pitted spot disappear, so I turned it into hipower type cuts, which came out much nicer.
 
Starting the cuts

I needed a better file, so went to HD and bought a Nicholson 8" file (pack of two) that has a rough pattern on one side and smooth pattern on the other. The file was the width I wanted it, 0.788" (I wanted 0.75", but close enough).

I do not have plastic or cooper jaws for my file (and I didn't think of the nylon cutting board option. So, I took my jaws out and used some wood (poplar) blocks that I have around. To make sure I had the same alignment as the rear cuts, I used a level. It took some time until I was comfortable with the alignment and I could start.











I don't have blue dye, so I used a sharpie marker to cover the area and make sure everything was aligned.





It took some time to have both sides at the same depth. It wasn't easy, clamping and un-clamping on the vise. Tough to keep things aligned.



I cleaned both sides of the marks to see how everything was going...








It is starting to take form...

more to come...
 
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Sometimes you should use a smooth file

After some progress had been made in the cuts, both sides were dimetric at the desired depth, I decided to do a "quick blast" to check for imperfections.

It was raining a lot, and my blasting setup is rudimentary, so I only did a small pass.









Looked ok, but there were file marks !!!:mad:

I should have "smoothen" everything before blasting it...but to be honest...I was dying to see it...:rolleyes:

Later on, I started to correct the filing marks and other imperfections...





more to come...
 
You know you're going to wind up with a cool custom slide that you have to build a gun around, right? :)

Another idea for you - take a look at an "Asp", you'll see a front cut like you just did, and the rear serrations were given the same cut.
 
mikerjf said:
You know you're going to wind up with a cool custom slide that you have to build a gun around, right? :)

Another idea for you - take a look at an "Asp", you'll see a front cut like you just did, and the rear serrations were given the same cut.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot mikerjf... Some thought I've had about the cuts...

My biggest concern at this point is the depth of the cuts. The M910 frame runs at the same level as the slide. Not much space there to cut, without exposing the rails of the frame.



On the M5906 frame, the dustcover is "recessed" so there is more space for the cuts to be deeper.


On the ASP, it seems that there is barely enough space...but these guys really knew what they were doing...


At this points the fronts cuts are exactly the same depth as the rear serrations. I am concerned that by erasing the serrations, I might remove to much material. Since I do not have a M910 frame, I do not want to risk it...

I don't think I will get a M910 frame...I have a couple of "orphan" M915 slides and I'm trying to find a M5904/5903 frame...the idea is to have a common platform that can inter-change slides.

If this projects ends well, I will probably try to trade the slide for something else (that can become part of another project...):D

Re ASP: I have a CS9 and I think it would be a fantastic platform to give the ASP "treatment". It would have to be a collaboration: TercGen would have to make grips with a lexan window, squidsix would have to make magazines with a see-though cut, perhaps we could find an orphan slide for BMCM to "round it" and add some cuts...just daydreaming...:rolleyes:

more to come...
 
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more blasting...

Saturday morning. Woke up early. Quiet home...

Did some stoning and sanding trying to get rid of filing marks. Also, tried to address previous marks, digns, scratches and some pitting :eek:











When I thought I was done...I started to get ready for some blasting in my "play-doo" cabinet...





I had to come inside the house a couple of times to address a couple of "stubborn" marks that wouldn't go away with the blasting...

After 3 passes I was done. Light bath, blasted it with compressed air, then took it inside and did some stoning of the barrel bushing...

















I think we are ready for some home hot bluing...will try to finish today...

more to come...
 
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Failure.

Failure. Failure. Failure.

Spent a good 2 hours this afternoon doing the hot bluing and the results were disappointing.

So, let's talk about mistakes:

1) The bluing solution was compromised: I wanted to use the same bluing solution I used for the SSV project. I kept it in the garage in a container. Today, when I went to use it, I noticed I had been spilled by "someone" and there were about 3/4 left. I said to myself "that should be enough..." WRONG...

Hot bluing requieres a precise formula in precise quantities, when I added water I diluted it too much. The result was a dark gray but not a deep black (it looks lighter in real life )

2) I left a water mark on one side of the slide: Normally one of my kids help me...but this time I was on my own. I accidentally touched the slide with a wet rubber globe and there is a HUGE water mark on one side...I think I will handle the slide with cotton gloves until it is ready to sink in the bath...

Some pics (trust me looks better in pictures)




(water mark)





the plan forward? Simple: do it again...
;)
 
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I have never hot blued at home, instead relying on BC perma-blue paste that can come out amazing and can look like garbage depending on me.
If I do surface prep well, and get the piece hot (toaster oven at 225 degrees) it comes out excellent. My 6915 came out great this way.
If done at room temp without a good prep, it comes out poop brown.
 
squidsix said:
I have never hot blued at home, instead relying on BC perma-blue paste that can come out amazing and can look like garbage depending on me.
If I do surface prep well, and get the piece hot (toaster oven at 225 degrees) it comes out excellent. My 6915 came out great this way.
If done at room temp without a good prep, it comes out poop brown.
Click to expand...


Totally agreed. Surface prep makes all the diff...

I used to do do a lot of cold blue and rust blue...but hot caustic bluing is a different animal...color is deeper (much darker) and wear resistance is better...



let's see if I have better luck tomorrow...
 
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I've always wanted to try hot blue, but have written it off as too difficult to get right. Ever thought of doing a write-up to share the process?
 
hot blue write up...

skjos said:
I've always wanted to try hot blue, but have written it off as too difficult to get right. Ever thought of doing a write-up to share the process?
Click to expand...

Hi skjos...

yes, I can do one...I can also list all the references that I have used.

I have adapted the formula to do small batches, given the size of my container and that I only do slides and small parts...

It is not complicated, but it is dangerous. Personal protection equipment is a must.

It is also a bit tedious, all the steps have to be follow, or the result is sub-optimal...

I am no expert...I'm learning, but I am happy to share what I've learned so far...

I will post it later on this week...:)
 
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