17-4 should I modify it?

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I recently picked up a Model 17-4 with 8 3/8 inch barrel that a friend got at a police auction ( didn't know they still did that! ) that has some major issues ( see picture for condition ). The gun functions as it should but has sticky chambers, need to tap on the extractor rod to drive the empty's out, I have cleaned the chambers with a new brass brush and they still stick. Now on to the mods I am thinking...... with the metal finish issues on the barrel and cylinder and some rust issues, I find a good used barrel and replacement cylinder and swap those parts out. OR maybe cut the barrel back to 3 1/8 " and just replace the cylinder, OR ( now not sure I can do this ) re-chamber the existing cylinder to 22 mag and pick up a complete 22lr cylinder assembly. What are thoughts on this? Not like it has any value other than a shooter. A cop friend of mine thinks it might have been thrown out of a car and then run over, I thought it looked like it was hit with a chain saw! It does shoot just a touch left so with the sights it can be adjusted to where it need to be

Thanks to all in advance!
 

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Wow, that looks a far cry from my 17-4 8 3/8" revolver. The charge holes/chambers on mine are very tight as well...thinking about having them reamed just a slight amount.

Yours definitely looks like a project gun! Can you acquire a Model 17 barrel these days?

Here is what it likely looked like before its life of crime:
49888248177_c182956c2a_o.jpg

49789369416_24702df34e_o.jpg
 
Mike, if it were mine - I would run a finish reamer thru the chambers - the proper cure for the known issue of sticking cartridges in certain . K and J frames.

Then I would give it a good scrubbing, lube, and shoot the snot out of it. repeat as needed.

If you want a higher quality finish gun, you are better off financially selling what you have, and buying what you want.

Larry
 
The sticky chambers are a common issue on S&W .22s. A replacement cylinder could be just as bad or worse. :rolleyes: The usual cure is to use a finish reamer and/or polish the chambers a bit.
Unless you are capable of doing the work yourself, modifying that gun would easily put much more money into it than its worth.
I agree that if these things bother you that you'd be better off to just sell it and buy one you like better.
 
I reamed the chambers myself on my 17-3 and 34-1, but the local going rate is $60 for a six shooter, $70 on a 9 or 10 shooter (includes any brand).

It only takes about 10 minutes per chamber to finish ream. (use lots of cutting oil!)

Ivan
 
It does look a bit rough, doesn’t it? For sure ream the cylinder enough that you can easily eject empties. As for the barrel, have you put a straight edge on it to be sure it’s not bent? If bent, I’d cut it down to whatever you like. As long as it’s well crowned and the front sight properly attached, it should be gtg. Is the frame itself mostly Undamaged? Im looking at cell phone pictures and can’t really see the extent of the road rash.
 
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The frame is mostly Okay, has some finish issues, mostly peppering and light rust spots. It shoot a little left but the sight should take care of that. I am thinking I will just leave it alone, polish the chambers and just shoot the **** out of it. If polishing does not help them I will get a finish reamer and take care of it.
 
Looks like a wonderful candidate for taping and mounting a scope and using it for hunting or silhouette shooting. Doing that wouldn't hurt the value at all!
 
My 617 had to have cylinders reamed. This was after the cylinder was replaced because of sticking empties. I had to have it done locally since the factory said it was within specs. Shoots great now. I can shoot a complete steel challenge match with no ejection issues. Tight chambers seem to be commonplace.
 
I have reamed a K22 Outdoorsman, a 1952 K22, a 1954 K22, a 17-4, a Pre mod 18, a Mod 34, a Mod 63, a Mod 617-6, and al have been improved immeasurably, with no change in their accuracy. A standard chamber finishing reamer does it properly. Use lots of cutting oil and do it by hand slowly. Clean reamer often and never turn backwards.
 
Have you checked to see if a slightly-bent ejector rod is causing the difficult extraction?

Doubtful. Unfortunately, S&W 22 rimfire revolvers have a very long history of sticky extraction. I had a Model 17-? and a Model 34-?, both had extraction problems. Before I discovered the commonality with other S&W rimfire, I sent them down the road to shooters who now enjoy them. Fortunately, I am not a rimfire revolver kind of guy. I prefer my rimfire to be chambered in rifles.

Kevin
 
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