1885 vs #1 (or #3)

[TIMETRIPPER]

Thanks ggibson. I've just learned something new.

If you know how to operate it you never need to touch the hammer on a 1885 unless you want to. The hammer spur doesn't protrude much and can be hard to cock very quickly if a scope overhang covers it. The solution is the brilliance of the 1885 design. The hammer is easy to lower safely by lowering the finger lever about an inch, pulling the trigger (Don't worry. The breach block is out of battery), and raising the finger lever. The mechanism gently lets the hammer down. If you're holding a loaded rifle with the hammer not cocked, simply cycle the finger lever down and up about an inch and the mechanism cocks it for you. You could do all this in mittens. It's very safe, quick and convenient, faster than thumbing a hammer.
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I have an original hi-wall that was very nicely rebored from 32-40 to 45-70. Took it out of the safe and it performs just as you described.

As far as deciding between a high wall or the Ruger #1, that's a tough one. Both are very strong actions, even the original Winchester hi-walls. Strong enough to pound your shoulder into mince meat with the heavier loads. But the beauty of the old 45-70 is that you can always load it down to easy powder puff levels with 10 gr Unique and lighter lead bullets.
My 45-70s have included new and old hi walls, a couple Remington rolling blocks and trapdoors. Also have a Pendersoli Sharps that was reamed out to 45-120. Never owned a #1 or 3 in 45-70 but did own a nice early 1b in 30-06.

As far as safety and speed of loading goes, the Ruger action wins hands down. The Sharps is down right clumsy and slow to reload, not that I don't like it.
The Remington roller is simple, easy to use and clean, but are not as strong as most people think. I would not use the mid range loads made up for the 1886 Winchester and newer Marlin lever gun in any rolling block action, original or the new remakes.
The trap door action is the weakest.
But the original question was the choice between hi wall or #1. Simple answer is to get both. Put a nice wide view scope on the #1, and augment the open sights on the hi-wall with a decent Soule type rear tang sight for long range fun.

John

 

[biku324]

I've been having the envie for a single shot 45-70 for a while. I decided rather than go with an H&R or other crack barrel, to wait and save up for a nice one. I am really torn between the 1885 and the #1. Main thing is I really do not care for the 28 inch barrel of the 1885 and I think that the 16.5" barrel would blow my socks off.
Opinions are solicited.

Objectively speaking, no other single shot firearm compares to the Ruger #1. But don't do the 45-70; go whole hog and get the 450-400 3" - you can load it up or down for anything on the planet. They are appreciating at a dizzying rate as well.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

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Legal Gear for Primitive Firearms Season includes:

Rifles or pistols, .44 caliber minimum, or shotguns 10 gauge or smaller, all of which must load exclusively from the muzzle, use black powder or approved substitute only, take ball, shot, or bullet projectile only, including saboted bullets. All of the above may be fitted with magnified scopes.
Single shot, breech loading rifles or single shot, breech loading pistols, .35 caliber or larger, having an exposed hammer that use metallic cartridges loaded either with black powder or modern smokeless powder. All of the above may be fitted with magnified scopes.
Single shot, breech loading shotguns, 10 gauge or smaller, having an exposed hammer, loaded with buckshot or slug.

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[wetdog1911]

You really need to check out at least one book and perhaps 2 to get some good insight. Both are by the same author.

The first is, "Forty years with the .45-70" by Paul Matthews, and the other is, "The paper patched bullet", same author.

He loved his single shots and mostly favored the Ruger #1s and #3s (more affordable than vintage or repros), and pure lead, paper patched slugs and mostly smokeless powder for hunting. His loads made my shoulder hurt just reading what he stuffed into that ctg to put meat on the table. He rarely needed a second shot.

*I* highly reccomend his book(s), but, especially, the 40 years with the .45-70.

Rob

 

[HOUSTON RICK]

Henry has entered the single shot 45-70 field. I have yet to see a 45-70 Henry, but I like Henry rifles (whatever that makes me) compared to other currently manufactured and moderately priced rifles. Maybe worth a look.

 

[Nick B]

Buy a 1874 Shiloh and call it a day .

 

[Bullet Bob]

Well this thread made me order a Ruger No. 1 in .45-70. I think CajunLawyer should pay half my costs, but I'll not be holding my breath.

 

[rockquarry]

Buy a 1874 Shiloh and call it a day .

I've had a couple of Shiloh Sharps .45-70s and still have one that I bought thirty years ago. It doesn't get fired very often, but I did shoot it yesterday. No surprise that these guns are very accurate but that action has always seemed a bit awkward and clunky in comparison with the 1885 and Ruger single shot; I use them, too. Of course, the 1874 is an older design.

Again, it comes down to what one prefers as they can all be more than satisfactory shooters. As for the .45-70 cartridge, cast bullets are certainly the way to go. I can't imagine what advantage a jacketed bullet would have in the .45-70 over the right cast bullet.

 

[Charlie Foxtrott]

The Miroku High Walls are hard to beat.

The Ubertis are also good to go as well as their low walls. The Ruger #1s are good guns, but not as nice as the Mirokus or the Ubertis.

But I guess that my favorite single shot is my original 1887 Winchester high wall in 40-70 straight Sharps.