19-3, cylinder sticks when trying to open

postban

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Bought used in 2000ish, 4" 19-3. Worked great for years but in the last year it has developed a problem. Push the cylinder release forward as normal and the cylinder will not unlatch and swing out. If I tap the right side (I know, bad) or pull back slightly on the cylinder it opens. The little post in the latch hole seems flush with the back face of the frame when it is open.

I took off the plate and looked to see if there was any obstruction, none. Looking for some help to fix it.
 
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More than likely the ejector rod is bent. Model 19's were not designed to use top end loads. Not saying you did but this is a common problem encountered with 19's.

Keith
 
First insure that your extractor is not loose. Grab the knurled section and try to rotate it. Secondly, check your forcing cone at the six o'clock position for cracks. I hope for you that you don't find one, I did!
 
What MR Majjestic said. The end of the extractor rod had worked out. Carefull which way you tighten; older ones go the "right" way, newer are opposite threaded.
 
Hey, I had the same problem. After looking I noticed the forcing cone was cracked at the 6 oclock position the crack bulged the frame a little to make the yoke stick...hope it is not your forcing cone.
 
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MAN YOU ALL HAD ME WORRIED.MY CYLINDER IS TIGHT. I JUMPED UP AND RAN TO THE SAFE TO CHECK MY FORCEING CONE. WHEEEW IT'S OKAY.
DON
 
Well I looked at it and do not see an obvious crack at 6oclock and the ejector rod is smooth in operation, no bind or indication of warp. Extractor is not loose, will not rotate.
 
But is the ejector rod itself tight? Open the cylinder, hold it tight in your hand and see if you can turn just the ejector rod. If so, tighten it. Most of the time, that's the problem.
 
Originally posted by Cocked & Locked:
But is the ejector rod itself tight? Open the cylinder, hold it tight in your hand and see if you can turn just the ejector rod. If so, tighten it. Most of the time, that's the problem.

Just tried that, it won't budge either way. It does go in/out of the cylinder easily though.

SN is K894xxx
 
postban, you may have to "refit" (deburr) the front end of the rod, where the bolt "set in",once you start to "have to" knock it, the cylinder on the side to open it up, you can cause even MORE distortion of the 'hollow end' of the ejector rod, the centerpin has to come all the way out to the end,,'flush" to disengage the rod ,from the bolt....yes, normally this is a sign of the ejector rod becoming "loose" and unscrewing...thats always the first thing to check............
 
Hi...Had the same problem with a "Victory" model. Carefully used a Dremel with a fine disc to take a couple of thousands off the knurled end of the rod, keeping a slight taper to the outside edge. Dab of blue, and it works fine now. BT
 
I was having the same problem on a Model 640-1 I just picked up. I put Breakfree CLP in the end of the ejector rod. What really seemed to make a difference was when I removed the cylinder release latch and oiled underneath that. The cylinder opens easily and snaps shut securely.
 
I had a similar problem once.
If the ejector rod isn't either bent or loose, examine the very end of it where it locks under the barrel : either the inside edge of the hollow rod or the tip of the center pin itself might have got peened and need deburring.
 
It could likely be that the center pin is a tad short. Open the cylinder. With a flat item, like a spoon handle or something, push the back of the center pin where it protrudes from the extractor star. Push it in until its flush with the star. Now, look at the front of the ejector rod. The center pin should be flush with the edges of the ejector rod. I'm betting its just a tiny bit shy of flush and, may be recessed kust a little...

If thats the case, a few very light even file strokes with a FINE file will get it right. Light/even and fine are the operative words here....
 
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