19-3 hammer pushoff question

[CorvZ061]

I finally had a chance to get into my new to me 19-3. Overall it looks pretty clean under the side plate, which is kind of surprising. The reason for pulling the side plate was due to hammer push off. I noticed when I got it that single action trigger was extremely light, but also you can feel when the trigger was going to break and pull just hard enough and slowly lower the hammer with the trigger.

Upon opening it I found that the step on the hammer is almost non existent, and the trigger doesn't appear to be rounded.

I'm assuming this repair will involve replacing hammer and trigger to be safe or just hammer and fitting the 2.

If I were to buy a used hammer and trigger set off ebay, has anyone had any luck with it being a drop in or will it still need the same fitting? I can get my hands on the jig for stoning the hammer, if need be. Main goal is to have a safe trigger with no hammer push off, a secondary goal is to main a nice crisp trigger.

 

[armorer951]

I have repaired many triggers suffering from this condition by simply re-sharpening the bevel (to the specified factory angle) according to the correct "bench-top" method taught at the S&W armorer's school. Usually, no further intervention is required. Check the SA cocking notch on the hammer with a magnifier to see if it is damaged. The notch is very shallow. If it has damage or has been altered you should be able to determine this very readily by examining it with magnification. If the hammer notch is damaged you will need to purchase a new hammer. The trigger can often be sharpened, as stated above. Sharpening involves the correct stone and following specific factory written instructions.

Testing for push off requires what S&W calls "nominal pressure" be exerted on the back of the hammer spur after clearing and cocking the revolver in single action. This nominal pressure can (should) be exerted by using a trigger pull gauge attached to the back of the hammer and exerting approx. 10-12 pounds of pressure. Too much pressure can damage the components.

Sometimes, when previous owners have substituted an altered or lighter aftermarket rebound spring, the condition can be repaired by simply returning a full length, 17 coil OEM rebound spring to the gun. Your indication of a light trigger pull is an indication that the rebound spring may have been cut, or a lighter spring substituted.

Remember not to cycle the action under mainspring tension with the sideplate off, and be sure to use a quality trigger pull gauge after any work is done to verify the trigger pull is at or above the factory recommendation of 3 pounds.

"Period correct" hammer/trigger combinations are sometimes compatible when introduced to a "new" frame, but minor fitting may be required.

Carter

 

[CorvZ061]

I have repaired many triggers suffering from this condition by simply re-sharpening the bevel (to the specified factory angle) according to the correct "bench-top" method taught at the S&W armorer's school. Usually, no further intervention is required. Check the SA cocking notch on the hammer with a magnifier to see if it is damaged. The notch is very shallow. If it has damage or has been altered you should be able to determine this very readily by examining it with magnification. If the hammer notch is damaged you will need to purchase a new hammer. The trigger can often be sharpened, as stated above. Sharpening involves the correct stone and following specific factory written instructions.

Testing for push off requires what S&W calls "nominal pressure" be exerted on the back of the hammer spur after clearing and cocking the revolver in single action. This nominal pressure can (should) be exerted by using a trigger pull gauge attached to the back of the hammer and exerting approx. 10-12 pounds of pressure. Too much pressure can damage the components.

Sometimes, when previous owners have substituted an altered or lighter aftermarket rebound spring, the condition can be repaired by simply returning a full length, 17 coil OEM rebound spring to the gun. Your indication of a light trigger pull is an indication that the rebound spring may have been cut, or a lighter spring substituted.

Remember not to cycle the action under mainspring tension with the sideplate off, and be sure to use a quality trigger pull gauge after any work is done to verify the trigger pull is at or above the factory recommendation of 3 pounds.

"Period correct" hammer/trigger combinations are sometimes compatible when introduced to a "new" frame, but minor fitting may be required.

Carter

I need to get a trigger pull gauge, but if you breathe on it hard enough it’ll go. It’s that light. Double action feels pretty normal

 

[CorvZ061]

I have repaired many triggers suffering from this condition by simply re-sharpening the bevel (to the specified factory angle) according to the correct "bench-top" method taught at the S&W armorer's school. Usually, no further intervention is required. Check the SA cocking notch on the hammer with a magnifier to see if it is damaged. The notch is very shallow. If it has damage or has been altered you should be able to determine this very readily by examining it with magnification. If the hammer notch is damaged you will need to purchase a new hammer. The trigger can often be sharpened, as stated above. Sharpening involves the correct stone and following specific factory written instructions.

Testing for push off requires what S&W calls "nominal pressure" be exerted on the back of the hammer spur after clearing and cocking the revolver in single action. This nominal pressure can (should) be exerted by using a trigger pull gauge attached to the back of the hammer and exerting approx. 10-12 pounds of pressure. Too much pressure can damage the components.

Sometimes, when previous owners have substituted an altered or lighter aftermarket rebound spring, the condition can be repaired by simply returning a full length, 17 coil OEM rebound spring to the gun. Your indication of a light trigger pull is an indication that the rebound spring may have been cut, or a lighter spring substituted.

Remember not to cycle the action under mainspring tension with the sideplate off, and be sure to use a quality trigger pull gauge after any work is done to verify the trigger pull is at or above the factory recommendation of 3 pounds.

"Period correct" hammer/trigger combinations are sometimes compatible when introduced to a "new" frame, but minor fitting may be required.

Carter

I had time this afternoon to work with it some. I have the hammer push off fixed, but I'm afraid it's definitely going to need a trigger now. the part that the trigger pushes to bring back the hammer for double action hit the ramp on the trigger and the hammer never moves, just rotates the cylinder. the trigger was rounded very bad, it looks like whoever do that trigger job on this originally took too much material and peened it back and rounded off the trigger. It would seem I got the sore end of the deal and will need to order a trigger.

Is there a specific trigger for my 19-3 or would any K frame trigger work?

 

[armorer951]

Did they peen the bottom of the sear....the part that toggles on the front of the hammer? Or is the trigger damaged above the bevel?

The sear in the hammer can be replaced if the trigger is OK.

 

[CorvZ061]

Did they peen the bottom of the sear....the part that toggles on the front of the hammer? Or is the trigger damaged above the bevel?

The sear in the hammer can be replaced if the trigger is OK.

The bevel on the trigger appears to start too far back. On my other model 19 the sear sits on a flat just in front of the bevel, on the gun in question the sear is sitting on the bevel instead of on a flat.

 

[armorer951]

Perhaps you could post a photo of the parts as they are after installation so that we can see/determine what's going on.

There is also an option of "letting the sear out" so that it moves further out at the bottom. If the bottom of the sear is damaged or the angle there has been modified, you will need to fit a new sear, or have a trusted gunsmith fit a new one. (if the other parts are intact and undamaged)

 

[Protocall_Design]

You could trade triggers to see what happens with the unaltered one, and decide how to proceed after that.

 

[CorvZ061]

Perhaps you could post a photo of the parts as they are after installation so that we can see/determine what's going on.

There is also an option of "letting the sear out" so that it moves further out at the bottom. If the bottom of the sear is damaged or the angle there has been modified, you will need to fit a new sear, or have a trusted gunsmith fit a new one. (if the other parts are intact and undamaged)

I'm not sure letting the sear out would help. Lol

 

[armorer951]

Looks like is has already been let out some.....and the surface above the SA bevel appears to have been modified, or moved back, making it inaccessible to the sear.

Perhaps you could try what Protocall Design suggested, and install one of your unmodified K-series triggers?

 

[CorvZ061]

Looks like is has already been let out some.....and the surface above the SA bevel appears to have been modified, or moved back, making it inaccessible to the sear.

Perhaps you could try what Protocall Design suggested, and install one of your unmodified K-series triggers?

I ordered a matched set off ebay. I’ll install those when they get here, what fitting may be required when they get here?

 

[armorer951]

Just too many variables at this point to comment on that I'm afraid.

Have to wait and see. They may drop right in.