I have a 19-3 that went back to Smith two years ago for some sight work and I had them replace/fit a buggered yoke screw. I have had little occasion to shoot the gun since then, but when I did, I noticed that the cylinder must be pulled rearward (towards hammer) to be opened. This is true with the revolver positioned in all six cylinders. I don't remember this issue existing before the visit to Smith, but that's neither here nor there.
I have read and performed the tests and remedies posted on some forum (maybe this one). The ejector rod is screwed in tightly. The bolt is flush with the recoil shield; it is not obstructed from full forward movement (compared to other Smiths that I have and are in good working order). The center pin sits proud of the ejector rod when the center pin is pushed from the rear to be flush with the cylinder rear. I can remove material from the ejector rod to make the center pin even more proud, but before doing that, I want to make sure everything else is in order.
I just measured the gun's end shake at .010. I passed a .018 feeler gauge with the cylinder held to the rear, and a .008 with the cylinder pressed forward. These measurements are all obviously excessive. I tested the 19-3 for yoke shake, and I was unable to get a shim in between the frame and the yoke, so I think its minimal. I measured two other Smith revolvers of mine for end shake (including a very sparsely shot 29-10 which was purchased new) and got end shake numbers of .005. So maybe I am doing something wrong. With the 29-10, I got a rear reading of .006 and was basically unable to pass any feeler gauge with the cylinder pressed forward, though light is visible through the gap.
Anyway, this leads to some questions:
1. Can excessive end shake, BC gap, etc. cause the cylinder opening problems I have described? It seems to me that if there is that much slop in the cylinder, then the center pin may not be be able to fully depress on the locking bolt to free the cylinder.
2. What's the procedure for fixing the end shake problem? I can shim the end shake out, but then I have a BC gap of 0.014+ and I have to have the barrel set back?
3. Is it worth it? I feel like I am only trying to fix this thing so that I can sell it with a clean conscience. I don't want to pass these issues on to an unsuspecting buyer, but I really don't want to sell this thing as parts. In this moment, I'd like to just wash my hands of it.
I appreciate any input. I am happy to provide photos or additional measurements if you think that would help.
Thank you.
Edit: Editing to say that I have just ordered end shake bearings, since it seems that I need them even in my 29-10. Regardless of whether the end shake is causing cylinder opening issues in the 19-3, I ought to take care of the end shake. Tackle one issue at a time and then move on to the next one.
I have read and performed the tests and remedies posted on some forum (maybe this one). The ejector rod is screwed in tightly. The bolt is flush with the recoil shield; it is not obstructed from full forward movement (compared to other Smiths that I have and are in good working order). The center pin sits proud of the ejector rod when the center pin is pushed from the rear to be flush with the cylinder rear. I can remove material from the ejector rod to make the center pin even more proud, but before doing that, I want to make sure everything else is in order.
I just measured the gun's end shake at .010. I passed a .018 feeler gauge with the cylinder held to the rear, and a .008 with the cylinder pressed forward. These measurements are all obviously excessive. I tested the 19-3 for yoke shake, and I was unable to get a shim in between the frame and the yoke, so I think its minimal. I measured two other Smith revolvers of mine for end shake (including a very sparsely shot 29-10 which was purchased new) and got end shake numbers of .005. So maybe I am doing something wrong. With the 29-10, I got a rear reading of .006 and was basically unable to pass any feeler gauge with the cylinder pressed forward, though light is visible through the gap.
Anyway, this leads to some questions:
1. Can excessive end shake, BC gap, etc. cause the cylinder opening problems I have described? It seems to me that if there is that much slop in the cylinder, then the center pin may not be be able to fully depress on the locking bolt to free the cylinder.
2. What's the procedure for fixing the end shake problem? I can shim the end shake out, but then I have a BC gap of 0.014+ and I have to have the barrel set back?
3. Is it worth it? I feel like I am only trying to fix this thing so that I can sell it with a clean conscience. I don't want to pass these issues on to an unsuspecting buyer, but I really don't want to sell this thing as parts. In this moment, I'd like to just wash my hands of it.
I appreciate any input. I am happy to provide photos or additional measurements if you think that would help.
Thank you.
Edit: Editing to say that I have just ordered end shake bearings, since it seems that I need them even in my 29-10. Regardless of whether the end shake is causing cylinder opening issues in the 19-3, I ought to take care of the end shake. Tackle one issue at a time and then move on to the next one.
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