I just acquired an M&P 1905, 2nd Change, .38 Special, 5-inch barrel in very good condition. It's serial number is 146047 which probably puts manufacture around 1909. Upon removing the cylinder, I noticed a hole in the yoke for (presumably) a spring-loaded plunger and corresponding depression in the frame. Did the 2nd change 1905's have such an arrangement to keep the cylinder in the open position? If so, was the spring-loaded plunger retained in the frame in some manner or was it free to fly off into never, never land when the cylinder yoke was removed for routine cleaning? I'd like to obtain a replacement plunger and spring if they are available, although Numrich doesn't list such a thing. Any ideas on parts source. Thanks for looking.
1905 Missing Yoke Plunger
- Thread starter ab7wh
- Start date
They tend to fly away. I launched a couple myself when inattentively disassembling my first older S&Ws. The spring tends to stay in the hole, but you have to do a carpet drag with a big magnet to find the pin. Parts like this are why some recommend disassembly inside shoe boxes or large freezer bags. The pins are easy enough to restrain with a fingertip if you remember the problem before you yank the yoke shaft out of the frame.
The nice thing is that you can make a pin out of an old drill bit, and a small coil spring can be found at the local hardware store. Not sure of the diameter, but if the hole is 1/16" inch, you'd probably want a 3/64" drill bit to turn into a pin. When the spring and pin are in position, the end of the pin should stick out about 1/8" from the face of the yoke.
Those are impressions. I haven't actually measured anything.
The nice thing is that you can make a pin out of an old drill bit, and a small coil spring can be found at the local hardware store. Not sure of the diameter, but if the hole is 1/16" inch, you'd probably want a 3/64" drill bit to turn into a pin. When the spring and pin are in position, the end of the pin should stick out about 1/8" from the face of the yoke.
Those are impressions. I haven't actually measured anything.
Photos here: S&W Mysteries
They are pretty easy to make.
They are pretty easy to make.
I have the parts that you need. If your anywhere near the Kitsap peninsula send me a PM and maybe we can get together. they are free if you want them.
Dan
Drill bits are too hard. They should be heated first to red-hot, and
then left to air-cool. That should remove most of the hardness. One
end needs to be rounded over slightly, the other end cut square. In
the hardened condition, they would scratch and wear the frame.
Mike Priwer
then left to air-cool. That should remove most of the hardness. One
end needs to be rounded over slightly, the other end cut square. In
the hardened condition, they would scratch and wear the frame.
Mike Priwer
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I agree about hardness.
Every one I've seen is the same dome on both ends, though. That kept it from being put in backwards.
Good point about hard steel. If you don't have a torch to heat an old bit, maybe a piece of an unhardened, ungalvanized nail -- 5d or 6d nails would have about the right shaft diameter?
But that's still a desperation move. Far better of course to find one of the original pins from someone like Dan who has a few in reserve.
But that's still a desperation move. Far better of course to find one of the original pins from someone like Dan who has a few in reserve.
Unless one nail size fits right, a drill bit is best. Its probably a number
size that would fit it exactly. If you have a gas cooktop, just hold the
drill bit at the tip of a flame, and that ought to get it red hot. You only
have to heat about 1/2" .
Mike
size that would fit it exactly. If you have a gas cooktop, just hold the
drill bit at the tip of a flame, and that ought to get it red hot. You only
have to heat about 1/2" .
Mike
Do I understand it correctly that these spring loaded "open stops" were discontinued in the late '20's??
Did the machine remain (the pocket) for sometime during this transition with only the pin and spring being omitted in assembly??
Any idea on these transition dates would be much appreciated.
As far as the drill bit is concerned, you find the shank is much softer with only the flutes and cutting edges hard.
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