1911 series 70 vs series 80 - does it matter?

[GKC]

Pardon the pun, but I've been gun shy about Kimber. Not trying to stir up a controversy and no first hand experience with them, but I seem to run across a lot of complaints. Poor quality control. Poor customer service.

I've owned three Kimber 1911s...not the entry level models, either...they were all well over $1K. None of them would run a full box of ammo with malfunctions. The gunsmith at the LGS where I bought them couldn't make them run either. Kimber's response: "Shoot 500 rounds and then call us." At about $25 a box of 50 (price varies on brand and where you buy it) in order to fire 1,500 rounds it would have cost me at least $750 just to get Kimber's attention. That is something I won't put up with. A car, for example, is much more mechanically complex than a 1911, but we expect it to work correctly when we drive it off the lot, don't we? If you buy a new car and it stalls, backfires, dies, and generally won't run correctly, are you going to be happy if the dealer tells you to drive it 500 miles and then call him?

Some people love their Kimbers, and they are indeed beautiful pistols, but in my experience Kimber's CS is very poor, and I will never own another one.

 

[6string]

When Kimber 1911s first came on the market around 1997 or so, they kicked everyone's butts! Out of the box accuracy, reliability, and with a really trigger to boot!
I got a Gold Match in 1998, and it's really awesome! I use it as my primary centerfire for Bullseye. I have never once had an alibi in a match, or any sort of malfunction. It's never fired anything but my own handloads, all with cast or swaged SWCs.

However, I have no idea about anything they've made for years.

Best Regards,
Jim

 

[stansdds]

I've been considering getting a full size 1911 for range use and to shoot in the local IDPA matches every now and then. Not looking for anything fancy, just a 1911 that's functional and reliable out of the box. Doesn't have to be "original GI."

I've been searching/researching here and on a couple other forums. One question I haven't been able to answer is about series 70 vs series 80. I think I understand difference between them, but I'm not sure I understand if the difference actually matters.

Are the series 70 models not drop safe because they don't have the trigger actuated firing pin safety? Are the series 80 models terrible shooters or maintenance nightmares because of the extra components?

Thanks.

In the 1911, I view firing pin safety systems as one more component that can fail and render the firearm inoperable. A heavy firing pin spring will prevent pretty much any firing if the pistol is dropped onto its muzzle. As for a 1911 that is ready to go straight out of the box... hmmmm... Ruger makes darned good 1911's and I like the fact that the plunger tube is cast as part of the receiver, so it will never loosen or come completely off of the receiver.

And yes, a properly cast and heat treated steel 1911 receiver is just fine. The receiver does not have to be forged or milled from bar stock. The slide, however, does need to be forged or milled from bar stock as it takes the most shock during recoil.

 

[GTBL]

I have an 80 series Gold Cup. I have compared trigger to 70 series and can't tell a difference.

 

[oysterer]

Les Baer and end it...best combination of target gun accuracy with total combat reliability, at least on mine.

Model 70s are ok but the one I owned had the very tiny gov sights not useful in todays competition. Mine was so loose fitted, it shot patterns and not groups. The Gold Cups maybe ok but I expect they could not compete with the Baer in accuracy. They will be more of a collectible in todays market and not worth to wear out in competition.

Never heard anything good about Kimber and never seen one in competition, never seen a 80s series either.

 

[Qc Pistolero]

I have a Serie 70 Combat Commander with a sweet trigger and a serie 80 Gold Cup with a trigger so ordinary!
Maybe it is a fluke;afterall a sampler of 2 guns is not many but to me,no contest.Serie 70 is best.

 

[italiansport]

The trigger on my Kimber Custom Shop Pro CDP breaks like glass. It to me is the finest out of the box 45 auto trigger pull I've ever experienced!
Jim

 

[03hemi]

I have both and you can't tell any discernable difference if set up right. It just adds weight to the trigger pull, but that can be taken out with a good trigger job or one done right from the factory. Sorry purists.

 

[Funflyer]

I have both and you can't tell any discernable difference if set up right. It just adds weight to the trigger pull, but that can be taken out with a good trigger job or one done right from the factory. Sorry purists.

I agree. I was set to pull the series 80 parts from both my R1's until I tested the difference. The average difference in pull was a few ounces at best but with both breaking at 3-1/2 pounds from the factory, what would I have gained.

 

[TheHobbyist]

Owned many 1911 Colts over the years...in my opinion it is just hysteria. Like a 12 ga shotgun will blow your shoulder clean off...

With so many manufacturers of high-end 1911's now...let's put this one to rest if you are the 1% who can tell the difference in trigger pull.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

Ya just gotta LOVE a system named "Swartz". S&W 1911's like mine use the Swartz.
Let's see....series 70 vs series 80, internal extractor vs external extractor, full length recoil rod or GI recoil rod. Throw in a Swartz in the mix and you have the makings for an epic thread.