22 LR Extraction Problems with 617

That's the reamer I'm using, fresh from Brownell's.
Good choice, now get the good cutting oil.

One thought. Is the pilot (too) tight in the chamber throat and giving you grief while reaming? I've polished the pilot down on mine. Reduced its' diameter by ~.0005" because it was excessively tight in one 617 cylinder which made it seem like it didn't want to cut. It wanted to cut, the pilot/throat fit was keeping it from entering the chamber.

Chucked it in my drill press and polished down the pilot with 220 wet or dry sandpaper. Took maybe 5 minutes. Problem solved.
 
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I keep hearing about all these extraction problems shooters have had with their 617s. I haven't had that problem at all with mine. I bought it new last October and have run several hundred rounds through it without a hiccup. I have used a speedloader as well as loaded the cylinder one at a time and have done slow target practice as well as rapid shooting with quick reloads. When does this problem rear its ugly head? Is it because of a defect in certain 617s or caused by conditions or how you shoot?
One theory I have is mine works good because it has the internal lock...;)
 
When does this problem rear its ugly head? Is it because of a defect in certain 617s or caused by conditions or how you shoot?
One theory I have is mine works good because it has the internal lock...;)

Depends on what type of shooting you do and how many rds you shoot before cleaning. An 8 stage steel challenge match is 195 rds if you don't miss and shooting 250+ rds is not unusual. With chambers that haven't been reamed it's typical to be looking for something to use to beat on the extractor rod about half way thru the match.

The lock definitely does help, but only if you leave it locked and don't shoot the gun...
 
Well, I got a reamer and cutting oil and did my Pre 18 that was always a bear after a few cylinderfulls to eject. I shot 100 rounds of HV and 50 rounds of Hyper Vel and all ejects were with just my thumb and no assistance. Did nothing to the accuracy and shot one 1 1/2" hole in the target at 30 ft. Loved it so much yesterday I did my 617, my 34, and my 17-4.
 
Looks like a good fix to me. Both of my 22's are hard to extract spent casings after a few cylinders of shooting.
 
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Looks like a good fix to me. Both of my 22's are hard to extract spent casings after a few cylinders of shooting.

I've no trouble with extractions for my 617; however, the 63 I bought new 3 years ago had trouble after about 50 rounds. This winter I cleaned the cylinders using Birchwood Lead Remover cloth cut into patches, then buffed it with Flitz. I just returned from the range and shot over 100 rounds with no problems. Ejection was as smooth at the end as in the beginning.
 
I had that problem last year with Thunderbolts, I had some I couldn't get in, never mind getting out.
 
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I've no trouble with extractions for my 617; however, the 63 I bought new 3 years ago had trouble after about 50 rounds. This winter I cleaned the cylinders using Birchwood Lead Remover cloth cut into patches, then buffed it with Flitz. I just returned from the range and shot over 100 rounds with no problems. Ejection was as smooth at the end as in the beginning.



I think that each gun is different. I can shoot 200+ rounds in my four inch 617 without any difficulty in extraction. The six inch that I shoot most often in Steel Challenge did get very sticky after less than 100 rounds. Needless to say; I have reamed each of them so the problem will no longer be an issue. I guess the real advantage to reaming is for the competition shooter that shoots about 200 rounds in a match and doesn't want to deal with extraction problems.
 

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Many of the comments indicate that people believe that finish reaming the chambers is some kind of modification to the gun. In fact, the reamer brings the chamber to the proper dimensions - which should have been done in the first place at the factory. Get the reamer which is less than the shipping costs to the factory, unless you want to get a sheet of 8x10 paper that says, "Repaired, Tested, Passed".

Don't know why the idea of chamber polishing has such an appeal. Chamber surface finish is rarely an issue, and chucking up a piece of sandpaper in a drill is a pretty crude way to handle the problem.

A number of you toob videos show 617's locking up during firing. Those problem guns might not have enough front or rear clearances, but it is also possible that the rounds did not drop in completely due to tight chamber dimensions. For the unbelievers, it is simple to take a handful of clean fired brass and find a case that just fits into a particular chamber. Mic it and compare with Saami specs.

Sparks
 
If you use a finish reamer to bring your 617 chambers up to spec., no one will ever know if you don't tell them including the factory.

On the other hand, if you chuck up a piece of sandpaper or emery cloth and grind away, chances are everybody will be able to see what you did.

Which method is likely to void the warranty? You be the judge.
 

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