27-2 trigger goof up

You have a nice gun and would suggest that any polishing on your part will be like walking on thin ice... without the necessary knowledge required, you may accomplish nothing or render your gun out of time or worse...
 
Squirt some gunslick in it and shoot it for awhile. Then take it apart and clean the gunslick out and lightly lube again. This is standard procedure with all revolvers in my posession.........new or used.
 
Ironically, forums like this can be a very bad place for beginners to get their information.

The truth is, there is rarely if ever any reason to take the sideplate off of a revolver except to replace a broken part. I have a Model 1917 that was built in 1917 and issued to my grandfather during WW1. To my knowledge, after 100 years the sideplate has never yet been removed. Yet, it still functions perfectly. How can this be?

Simply, there has yet to be a single broken part; the action has been properly (that is, infrequently and lightly) lubed with a drop of light oil put just in front of the cocked hammer and another put inside through the trigger opening followed by working the action; and once every couple of decades the action has been cleaned by flushing out with a light solvent. These are the only internal cleaning and lubing steps required unless something disastrous like falling in a mudhole happens along the way.

You got lucky this time, but please, PLEASE don't go polishing anything at this point. It is far easier to ruin internal parts with polishing than it is to improve them if you don't know exactly what you are doing. Use alone will smooth things up nicely over time.
 
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I usually use a hair pin(very thin wire) and pliers to pull the hand spring back enough to insert the hammer into the trigger holes? Others probably have better idea.
Steve

I use a tool that should be present in most post all WW II revolvers-the hammer block. I hold the trigger between the thumb and fore finger of my strong hand. The hand has two pins. The longer one is the pivot. I place the pivot pin in its hole and have the shorter pin resting on the trigger. I then change hands, holding the hand pressed against the trigger with the thumb and fore finger of my weak hand. I take the hammer block with my strong hand and insert it into the groove where the hand spring rests. I push up on the spring with the hammer block and swivel the shorter pin into place. I withdraw the hammer block and the hand is now under spring tension.

It takes less time to do it than it does to read how. :)
 
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I jist sipped everuthing down again but did leave a little oil on the internals. I did the same for my model 51 I jist bought and I'm gonna do the same for the model 10 that should be here tomorrow. And I will not try to polish or alter any of my revolvers PROMISE
 
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