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28-2 Factory Blem?
- Thread starter CH4
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I’ve seen weak serrations, but never anything like that from the factory. More photos of the gun may be helpful.
My first thought was some level of refinish. That area is awfully rough, with a number indentations/pits. I guess it’s possible that the gun left the factory like that since the Highway Patrolman was intended as an economical law enforcement gun, but I would be surprised.
My first thought was some level of refinish. That area is awfully rough, with a number indentations/pits. I guess it’s possible that the gun left the factory like that since the Highway Patrolman was intended as an economical law enforcement gun, but I would be surprised.
OP
Sorry I don’t have other pictures, I am separated from the gun and won’t have access until the end of July when I return to the USA. But examining the 3 other sides, there’s no deformation, damage or obvious sign of repair or refinish. Oh well, it’s about perfect in every other way. I ve compared it to my other 28-2s and the finishes are identical.
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I have three 28-2s and have owned a couple more but I've never seen a
back strap that looked like that. Hate to say it but those look like rust
pits to me. It looks like some metal has been removed but not enough to
affect the grip fit and then some sort of refinish.
back strap that looked like that. Hate to say it but those look like rust
pits to me. It looks like some metal has been removed but not enough to
affect the grip fit and then some sort of refinish.
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Definitely wear from damage, +/- an attempted refinish.
Was it advertised/purchased as a new gun? No way it would have left the factory looking like this.
Was it advertised/purchased as a new gun? No way it would have left the factory looking like this.
The picture of the frame also indicates heavy pitting and indentations on the edge of the mainspring. Doesn't look like factory work in my opinion. Maybe had rubber grips for a while and condensation (hence rust eventually) was trapped? There is some glare on the pic that I can't see a clear outline of Magna's or rubber grip "wear pattern". I've seen a few Smiths that had Mershon, or Hogue on them for too long and you can see a "grip shape" type pattern, and sometimes rust marks just underneath
Interesting for sure, any back story of how you came by the gun? Auction, private seller, etc.?
How is it mechanically?
Interesting for sure, any back story of how you came by the gun? Auction, private seller, etc.?
How is it mechanically?
Not knowing the process of cutting in the grooves, I would say it left the factory that way, and you are looking at the original rough casting before it would have the grooves cut, and the casting smoothed. I say this because of the roughness going all the way to the top on the extreme outside edges of the back strap. I assume the process is drop forging to form the frame. I have seen thousands of Ruger barrels and frames made made as well as the levers for Winchester and Marlin rifles. They are drop forged, thrown into wooden barrels, and then sent to the respective companies for finish. I doubt S&W does their own drop forging. I have been to the factory many times, and I certainly would have heard that noise. hammer forging will sink building footings. Usually there are telephone poles sunk 30 feet to bedrock under the forging machines, and the noise will make your head ring for hours
daddio202
Member
Gun would never leave looking like that!! It was used and was well worn when somebody decided to refinish the gun. That's all just a refinish over worn rust pitted metal.
OP
Bought it from an LGS. I was aware of the blem when I bought it.
You're confusing castings with forgings and S&W does indeed do their own forging: Metal Forging - Smith & Wesson Precision Components
As for the piece in question, looks like a Bubba job someone, not the factory, did.
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gman51
Member
If it is J-B Weld then a pin should be able to scratch into it. I wonder if someone went crazy and buffed smooth a lot of the serrations.
I for sure don't believe it came from the factory like that.
I imagine a good gun smith could cut the serrations back into it.
I for sure don't believe it came from the factory like that.
I imagine a good gun smith could cut the serrations back into it.
OP
My thoughts when buying it for $350 was that if it bothered me too much I could re-cut the serrations or just throw on a set of Pachs or other grips that cover the backstrap. It doesn't appear to have had metal removed or any signs of damage. The rest of the gun is probably 95%; mechanically it's perfect, zero end shake, no shims found, no push off, screws are perfect, etc.
Art Doc
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
My guess is it was an attempt to polish out pitting and corrosion. Whole gun likely refinished. A holstered gun in rain and snow will rust on the back strap.
Definitely not a factory blemish... that is a bad attempt to eliminate rust and most likely a retired LE gun. I’m thinking rubber grips that got wet underneath.
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OP
Other than the normal holster wear at the muzzle and cylinder, the rest of the gun is unremarkable with factory finish - semi gloss on the sides and matte on across the top, back and bottom - identical to my other 28s. The only questionable area is that on the backstrap. No other sign of rust/pitting or repair on the grip frame or gun. Not to say it didn't wear pachs at one time, but it was wearing the unmolested factory magnas, which showed normal wear consistent with rest of the gun.
Guess I'll get out my checkering file for fun and see about
re-cutting the serrations.
I'd say it was the removal of some pitting that left it that way.
The left side/edge of the main spring in the second pic is also heavily pitted.
The left inside edge of the backstrap shows either some pitting marks or what maybe looks like the cross checkering teeth marks of a machinists vise jaw(s).
The backstrap itself still shows evidence of pitting even after the serrations have been taken down and removed in some areas.
The factory serrations usually don't usually come right out to the edge of the strap. So you can work them down quite a bit and still leave the original edge on the strap pretty much untouched other than cleaning it up with a few file strokes.
That leaves the orig grips still fitting nice.
Looks like a heavy glass bead or maybe even a grit blast was applied over the filed and polished down area afterwards.
Masking off that area would easily protect the rest of the untouched surrounding factory finish.
A bead or grit blasted finish takes a good cold blue like Brownells Oxpho like a factory finish and wears like it too.
The matted finish provides a surface perfect for cold blues and they match very well.
For that price,,I'd have bought it if the backstrap was still pitted.
Easy to recut the serrations with either a narrow point file or even a carbide single point checkering tool. Most of it's still there anyway to guide you.
JMO
The left side/edge of the main spring in the second pic is also heavily pitted.
The left inside edge of the backstrap shows either some pitting marks or what maybe looks like the cross checkering teeth marks of a machinists vise jaw(s).
The backstrap itself still shows evidence of pitting even after the serrations have been taken down and removed in some areas.
The factory serrations usually don't usually come right out to the edge of the strap. So you can work them down quite a bit and still leave the original edge on the strap pretty much untouched other than cleaning it up with a few file strokes.
That leaves the orig grips still fitting nice.
Looks like a heavy glass bead or maybe even a grit blast was applied over the filed and polished down area afterwards.
Masking off that area would easily protect the rest of the untouched surrounding factory finish.
A bead or grit blasted finish takes a good cold blue like Brownells Oxpho like a factory finish and wears like it too.
The matted finish provides a surface perfect for cold blues and they match very well.
For that price,,I'd have bought it if the backstrap was still pitted.
Easy to recut the serrations with either a narrow point file or even a carbide single point checkering tool. Most of it's still there anyway to guide you.
JMO
You are probably right
