28-2 out of time

[Pauldg]

Hello!
I recently picked up a 28-2 for what I thought was a good price. It passed all my initial checks, at least as far as my limited knowledge is concerned. You know what they say about things being too good to be true?

I finally had the chance to shoot it yesterday. It appears to be out of time. It failed to fire in double action, each primer dent was to the left of center. If you kept pulling the trigger, they would fire eventually. I believe it is shaving lead as well. I also noticed that at least once or twice on each cylinder, the action would bind up when pulling the trigger. Pulling the hammer back manually would overcome the bind. When I got home I completely disassembled, cleaned and checked things over. The hand and ratchets don’t appear to be worn or broken. Springs are ok, and parts seem to move when and where they are supposed to. I compared the parts to a model 27 that I have, and nothing is glaringly different. Locking slots in the cylinder are sharp with no metal out of place. Pulling the trigger on an empty cylinder things seem ok, no binding at all. Putting empty cases in the cylinder also results in off center strikes, but no binding.

This problem is beyond my expertise, and I plan on sending away fro repair. Any suggestions on what else I may look for before doing so?

Paul G

 

[rubiranch]

I would post this here....

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/

 

[Narragansett]

Sorry for your troubles. These guns are generally bomb proof. However, like Rubi said, this might best be placed in the S&W smithing forum. However, in order to help the respondents, some pictures might be helpful. Perhaps the recoil shield at the firing pin hole, and cylinder notch close ups, Also, you did not mention loads being used. They reloads? Primer seated deep enough?? Check the strain screw on the front side of the grip frame, and make sure it is tight( clockwise bottomed out ). Also check the strain screw to see if the end that contacts the main spring has not been filed

 

[ACORN]

No expert but I’m think the hand may be bad/worn being it’s happening on all chambers.
Watch Larry’s video
[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=r6g8kMFpI9M[/ame]

 

[Pine_Worker]

No expert but I’m think the hand may be bad/worn being it’s happening on all chambers.
Watch Larry’s video
YouTube

I second what Acorn says. At least worth a try.

 

[ken158]

You said that you didn’t know what to look for but you did a disassembly... None of the possible issues require disassembly to diagnose. Actually, you really need the gun fully assembled to properly diagnose because parts work off each other. You could have endshake, bent ejector rod, cylinder stop issues, hand issues... Best to send it to an experienced armorer / gunsmith.

 

[mh51]

Cylinder end-shake sounds like the likely culprit. It allows the cylinder to move forward, causing the hand to release too early and not allow the cylinder to fully lock up. It will also cause the face of the cylinder to rub against the rear of the barrel, causing binding. Its an easy fix for someone with the right tools and knowledge.

 

[Mike C2]

Cylinder end-shake sounds like the likely culprit. It allows the cylinder to move forward, causing the hand to release too early and not allow the cylinder to fully lock up. It will also cause the face of the cylinder to rub against the rear of the barrel, causing binding. Its an easy fix for someone with the right tools and knowledge.

This is where I would start as well. I had a first year highway patrolman that was a deal as well. It too acted as you described. The addition of and endshake shim made it one of the bes triggers I’ve ever used in DA.

 

[Texas Star]

The M-27 and M-28 do go out of time faster than smaller framed S&W .357's. The very thick cylinder walls have a lot more mass for the hand to
shove around. So, timing wears sooner. But it's still a lot better than on traditional Colts.

 

[Pauldg]

Thanks for the input. I have contacted the factory and am awaiting shipping instructions. Hopefully all will be made right.

Paul G

 

[eb07]

I am not sure where you are at but I would skip the factory and send it into Nelson Ford or Frank Glenn in Phoenix.

Just my humble opinion from someone who did just that with his 29-2

 

[Hondo44]

To reiterate the few simple checks shown in the video: Cock the hammer in single action mode. Gently push on the hammer to confirm that it will not drop w/o pulling the trigger. Cock the hammer slowly and confirm the cylinder locks in position for each of the 5 or 6 chambers about the same time the hammer cocks. If satisfactory, now operate the gun in DA pulling the trigger very slowly; again confirm the cyl locks before the hammer drops. After each cycling of the action, confirm that the cyl is still locked in position for all 6 chambers.