S&W mod. 28 Highway Patrolman trigger seized

Well, it is or was a solid piece of steel so if the extractor rod is screwed in the center pin would be sticking out the at the extractor.

You beat me to it:
Yes that is broken. Did you ever get the bolt out?
 
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M28 seized trigger- Cylinder

No, I did not take the bolt out yet. Once I saw what looked to be the sheared center pin, I stopped( running out of free time for now). What would be the purpose of removing the bolt, if my center pin is broken? Wouldn't that cause my issue hammer seized/thumb cyl. release stuck, cant open the cylinder?

Also, do you know if all N frame 28's use the same size center pin? (looking at Numrich's Gun Parts catalog)
 
DETROIT posted a link to the Numrich schematic on the previous page. Items 2, 3, and 5 should get you back in business. Replace the springs while you're there...

There may be some fitting that needs to be done on the new center pin to make it "just right" but you can handle it. Keep posting pictures and we'll help.

Happy that you found the issue :-)
 
Not sure if all N frame cylinder rods are the same diameter on shaft, but could be cut to length with the point machined to fit the hole in the ejection star.Try calling Numrich, if they have the part ( for any other N frame model), see what they say. Also, call S&W, if they still do repairs on revolvers, see if you can talk to a smith, they used to be very helpful & sometimes would just order out the correct part....of course, I'm very old & maybe just a touch senile.
 
Highway Patrolman Centerpin broken

OK, so I ordered a new center pin, since the old one had a sheared end ( on the extractor end). I had figured that the new center pin would possibly need some trimming in order for it to fit perfectly and operate as it should. I could not find the correct length of the Center Pin for my early model 1954 Highway Patrolman, so I went and tried the replacement center pin for a "practice fit", to see how it would work/ not work.
It appears a little bit too long, because the cylinder closed normally, and the trigger functions normally, hammer, etc.
The problem is, now I can't open the cylinder with the thumb release latch. The thumb release IS now back in its normal position ( to the rear) and there is spring tension to it when I push the thumb latch ( forward) to release the cylinder, but the cylinder does not open. I'm thinking that the Center Pin is sticking out too far from the extractor end, not clearing enough to release when the thumb release is pushed forward?
What would be the best way to get the cylinder opened, now with the too-long Center Pin installed?
Thanks!
 
If you have the right pin the only thing needed to be trimmed is the locking bolt end (on the barrel). Take a small screwdriver or preferrably a brass tool and slip it between the locking bolt and the end of the center pin. Push the locking bolt toward the muzzle.
 
If you have the right pin the only thing needed to be trimmed is the locking bolt end (on the barrel). Take a small screwdriver or preferrably a brass tool and slip it between the locking bolt and the end of the center pin. Push the locking bolt toward the muzzle.

Try using a flattened small caliber cartridge case, like a 5.56mm.
 
S&W Highway Patrolman trigger seized

I am not having any luck getting the cylinder to open. I have tried a fine Jewelers flat nosed screwdriver which I used successfully before with the old, sheared, Center Pin, inserting it in- between the locking bolt and new Center Pin..it does not want to cooperate and open.:(
 
Lubricate the locking bolt. Let the CLP soak for a day.
I bet the squished cartridge ' tool' will give better purchase.

Is it possible to override the cylinder release button with cover off and hammer etc removed?

Good luck!
 
S&W Highway Patrolman trigger seized

How did you get it to close? Was it very difficult to close?

So after I replaced the Center Pin with the new one to test its fitment, I closed the cylinder, and it closed crisply, nothing was forced. I then tried a function check of the trigger, cyl. rotation, all smooth, just like it should be. The thumb cylinder release seems to be in its normal position, to the rear, at rest, and when I push it forward to the cyl. release position, it seems to go forward to its "stop" position, however, the cylinder won't release and open.
Now, the locking bolt does push outward through the frame hole when the thumb cyl. release is pushed forward, But, it Does protrude a little bit when the thumb release is released to the rear/ normal rest, position. And I think that is a problem.
I have attached a couple of pics of both the rear position, and the pushed forward position.
Thanks!
 

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Looks like the pin & locking bolt are functioning and there is plenty of movement. When you insert the tool at the end of the rod you need to push the locking bolt all the way in the hole so that you can not see it in the shroud. At the same time you need to make sure your tool is not holding the center pin locked in the shroud.On top of that you need to push the cylinder release and push the cylinder open. All this is done at the same time. An extra set of hands might help. I'm thinking you must be binding it up with your tool and or not pushing the thumb latch and cylinder out like you would if it was functioning properly. Maybe try a slim piece of wood, like a wood match tapered at the end. It can push the locking bolt out of the way and as you try to open the cylinder it should fall apart enough to get the rod unstuck.

Not much more you can do than that.
 
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Remove the side plate, the main spring, the hammer and the thumb latch and bolt. Using a small punch, push the center pin forward and pull the cylinder out of the frame. Having a helper would be nice or secure the frame in a vise, using wood or aluminum inserts of course.

Thanks for the advice, I'll try both ways
 
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