S&W mod. 28 Highway Patrolman trigger seized

[Bad_karma101]

Thanks, Vtgw938,
I just posted about how I did get the cylinder opened. Looking at your pics you put up, the guts are identical to mine. I was thinking I was maybe missing a spring ( right where you drew the "left arrow)? What / how does the cylinder release "tab" get moved to the rear? In my M28, it's clearly being pushed forward by spring tension. How does it move back and "clear " the hammer as its being cocked? Thats my issue, Im thinking.

 

[Bad_karma101]

A couple more pics.

 

[Vtgw938]

So the center pin which what is inside the extractor rod and extractor goes into the hole in the recoil shield. That in turn pushes the bolt backwards so the hammer can be cocked. The bolt stays in the
reward position until the cylinder is opened. This removes the center pin from pushing the bolt rearward and the tiny spring on the plunger but inside he bolt pushes it forward again blocking the hammer. You need to remove the thumb latch and screw and remove the main spring and try to get the hammer out. You may need to apply some pressure with something that won't scratch.

P

 

[DETROIT]

I managed to get the cyl. open, used a jewelers screwdriver to depress the ejector rod pin in the frame, at the knurled end, then I pressed the cyl. thumb release back about 1/2 way, and opened the cylinder.
The rod looks OK, not bent or damaged. My problem looks to be in the Cylinder release. There is spring tension pushing if forward/ ( open) constantly. There is not any spring tension to push it back to its resting( rebound) position? Isn't there a spring in this component that is supposed to return the thumb release "back" to its resting position?

This should help you, Smith & Wesson 28 Revolver Parts, Schematics | Gun Parts Corp.

 

[DETROIT]

I would replace every spring, just for peace of mind. Or soak the gun in penatrating oil, you might just have dried grease in the spring seats.

 

[Shotguncoach]

Now that the cylinder is out, please post pictures of both ends of the center pin. Does the center pin stick out of the cylinder on the end where the ratchet teeth are? Or is it stuck in?

It should be sticking out of the cylinder where the ratchet teeth are and sunk into the ejector rod at the other end. If it is flush on both ends, that's your problem.

 

[Shotguncoach]

I managed to get the cyl. open, used a jewelers screwdriver to depress the ejector rod pin in the frame, at the knurled end, then I pressed the cyl. thumb release back about 1/2 way, and opened the cylinder.
The rod looks OK, not bent or damaged. My problem looks to be in the Cylinder release. There is spring tension pushing if forward/ ( open) constantly. There is not any spring tension to push it back to its resting( rebound) position? Isn't there a spring in this component that is supposed to return the thumb release "back" to its resting position?

Your pictures with the sideplate removed and the cylinder out show the bolt in the proper position for having the cylinder open or removed. The itty-bitty spring in the bolt pushes it towards to the muzzle and engages the hammer block when the cylinder is open.

The center pin spring inside the cylinder/ejector rod assembly pushes the center pin out, through the hole in the recoil shield, and that is what moves the bolt to the rear and gets the hammer block out of the way. The resistance you normally feel when pushing the thumbpiece towards the muzzle is the center pin spring being compressed to move the center pin out of the hole and allow the cylinder to swing open.

It's possible that the center pin is stuck in but not all the way, leaving just enough to barely latch the cylinder closed but not enough to push the hammer block out of the way. That could be from a broken spring, a broken center pin, or just a buildup of glock inside the assembly.

Be patient and don't force anything. We'll get you there.

If the pin is not sticking out all the way and you decide to jump ahead and take apart the ejector rod assembly, please remember to put EMPTY cases into the cylinder to support the ejector star as you unscrew the rod.

 

[S&W revolverman]

If I can follow all this correctly, and I think I have, without having this piece in hand, I'm going to suspect the center pin spring is the problem.

To inspect it will require the cylinder to be disassembled.

Chris

 

[Muley Gil]

If I can follow all this correctly, and I think I have, without having this piece in hand, I'm going to suspect the center pin spring is the problem.

To inspect it will require the cylinder to be disassembled.

Chris

The center pin should push the bolt to the rear.

 

[S&W revolverman]

The center pin should push the bolt to the rear.

I agree, however if the center pin does not have the tension to push the bolt to the rear, then maybe the center pin spring is not functioning properly - is what I am saying.

Chris

 

[AJ]

Wish you luck in figuring this out.

 

[Oldshot]

Hope all of this great detective work gets it solved for you.Next step is finding the right parts for the fix. Good luck. Suggestion: Get a copy of" The S&W Revolver-A Shop Manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen. I think the problem is listed in the trouble shoting section, pg 61. A google search may show where to get the book.

 

[goatsnguns]

Is it possible that an incorrect bolt might have installed in the past?

 

[Bad_karma101]

lol. thanks!

 

[Bad_karma101]

Thanks for all of the advice, everyone! I got busy with some other stuff , but I am now ready to jump back into it..
Goatsnguns: I don't believe so. To my knowledge, no. It's been a Safe Queen for many years, since I stopped carrying it as a duty weapon and being forced to carry semi-auto by my old agencies policy, but I used to shoot, (a lot) with it. Other than thorough cleaning, it's never had upper echelon maintenance/ repairs- never had any issues with this piece. Solid.

 

[AudieMurphy]

I have an idea! replace everything. then sell the used parts on fleabay

 

[Bad_karma101]

If I can follow all this correctly, and I think I have, without having this piece in hand, I'm going to suspect the center pin spring is the problem.

To inspect it will require the cylinder to be disassembled.

Chris

I'm about to delve into that now

 

[Bad_karma101]

M28 seized trigger- Cylinder

Based on what I've gathered from all of the given advice here,
looking at my cylinder, the center pin is not sticking out,- in fact it's pushed in a bit on either end. I'll first try soaking it with some starting fluid.

 

[Vtgw938]

Well, it is or was a solid piece of steel so it didn't shrink. Did you ever get the bolt out?

 

[Bad_karma101]

M28 seized trigger- Cylinder

I'm pretty sure I've found my problem. It looks like the tip of the center pin has sheared off, just enough to foul everything up.
The end of the pin ( extractor end) looks broken, and is rough. I will order a new center pin.