Pastprime
Member
Is this the correct forum to ask questions about one of these revolvers?
Hank
Hank
32 Hand Ejector, 3rd Edition Questions
- Thread starter Pastprime
- Start date
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Green Frog
Member
Yep! Fire away. 
Froggie
Froggie
Please start with the serial number from the butt.
Thanks. I'm not S&W smart yet and haven't learned where I need to post some of my questions yet.
The serial number is 263,249. I posted a question on this site about the revolver in 1208: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/79617-32-hand-ejector-basket-case.html but did not purse the project then. I am going to start on it now.
I will be gently cleaning the rusted areas and grips. I'm not going to strip the grips, just give them a rub down with something to get some of the the surface grim off.
The worst problem is that the barrel was cut off and the front sight crudely reattached. I'll try to post a couple pictures later today. My first big decision will be whether to clean up the existing barrel or try to find a replacement. I sent an email to Dave Chicoine to see if he has a barrel but have not received a reply.
Is it worth posting a WTB ad here or are parts for these older revolvers pretty much gone?
I would also like to increase the single stage trigger pull a little because someone has stoned or more likely filed on them and it is very, very light. Is there a DIY fix for the trigger pull?
I'm sure I'll have more questions. Please feel free to instruct and advise me on what would be appropriate or not to get this old girl back to the range and safe to shoot.
Thanks,
Hank
The serial number is 263,249. I posted a question on this site about the revolver in 1208: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/79617-32-hand-ejector-basket-case.html but did not purse the project then. I am going to start on it now.
I will be gently cleaning the rusted areas and grips. I'm not going to strip the grips, just give them a rub down with something to get some of the the surface grim off.
The worst problem is that the barrel was cut off and the front sight crudely reattached. I'll try to post a couple pictures later today. My first big decision will be whether to clean up the existing barrel or try to find a replacement. I sent an email to Dave Chicoine to see if he has a barrel but have not received a reply.
Is it worth posting a WTB ad here or are parts for these older revolvers pretty much gone?
I would also like to increase the single stage trigger pull a little because someone has stoned or more likely filed on them and it is very, very light. Is there a DIY fix for the trigger pull?
I'm sure I'll have more questions. Please feel free to instruct and advise me on what would be appropriate or not to get this old girl back to the range and safe to shoot.
Thanks,
Hank
Hank,
Well your 'old gal' is c. 1917 and right on the cusp of a .32 Hand Ejector of 1903 2nd Model - 5th change and a .32 Hand Ejector 3rd Model if it has a round butt. If you have a square butt It's a .32 Regulation Police introduced that year and will likely have a patent date on the butt if stocks are original. Blue or nickel finish?
No worries, these old Smiths make perfectly good shooters when mechanically fit and light target loads are recommended. Have checked out if in doubt.
For the light trigger pull, you might confirm that the main spring tension screw at the bottom of the forestrap is tight.
Yes, posting here for parts is a good first step plus checking Gunbroker for a .32 parts kit or barrel. Then there's also a long list of parts suppliers as well.
Bravo for wanting to rescue the old gal.
Well your 'old gal' is c. 1917 and right on the cusp of a .32 Hand Ejector of 1903 2nd Model - 5th change and a .32 Hand Ejector 3rd Model if it has a round butt. If you have a square butt It's a .32 Regulation Police introduced that year and will likely have a patent date on the butt if stocks are original. Blue or nickel finish?
No worries, these old Smiths make perfectly good shooters when mechanically fit and light target loads are recommended. Have checked out if in doubt.
For the light trigger pull, you might confirm that the main spring tension screw at the bottom of the forestrap is tight.
Yes, posting here for parts is a good first step plus checking Gunbroker for a .32 parts kit or barrel. Then there's also a long list of parts suppliers as well.
Bravo for wanting to rescue the old gal.
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Here are a few pictures. Unfortunatey I take pictures like I shoot; with a very shaky hold.....
The back strap was pretty heavily pitted and rusted but a lot of it cleaned up.
This is the barrel length now. Maybe you can tell from the lettering how much is gone:
This is the crown now:
It locks up OK. Not the tightest but I would shoot it. The only issue is if I don't snap the hammer back for single action, the cylinder stop does not engage because the cylinder stops just a few thousands too soon. Would this be due to a combination of hand and cylinder wear or some other issue? Is it worth spending a few dollars on ???
Edited to add:
Almost forgot to include that it came in this Towson "Perfect Fit" holster that someone paid a whole $1.95 for at some time.
The back strap was pretty heavily pitted and rusted but a lot of it cleaned up.
This is the barrel length now. Maybe you can tell from the lettering how much is gone:
This is the crown now:
It locks up OK. Not the tightest but I would shoot it. The only issue is if I don't snap the hammer back for single action, the cylinder stop does not engage because the cylinder stops just a few thousands too soon. Would this be due to a combination of hand and cylinder wear or some other issue? Is it worth spending a few dollars on ???
Edited to add:
Almost forgot to include that it came in this Towson "Perfect Fit" holster that someone paid a whole $1.95 for at some time.
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Green Frog
Member
OK, to take some of your questions one at a time,
1) I'm guessing the barrel started out as a 6". I may be wrong, but it looks like the markings were waaay out there and would have centered on a 6".
2) My first choice to look for a barrel would be Larry Poppert in PA. I've gotten a 6" barrel for my I-frame 22 HFT from him and he seems to have a bunch (see Gun Broker.) You might find a 4" barrel so you could keep the same holster!
3) Your cylinder problem could be something as simple as built up grease, powder and assorted other crud. If you clean it thoroughly or have it cleaned, your problem my go away. If not, I would contact David Chicoine about a replacement hand.
That should get you going. Watch out for a raft of other advice from this bunch... we all seem to be getting excited about the little I-frames for some unexplainable reason. Enjoy!
Froggie
PS Love the star inlay on the right grip!
1) I'm guessing the barrel started out as a 6". I may be wrong, but it looks like the markings were waaay out there and would have centered on a 6".
2) My first choice to look for a barrel would be Larry Poppert in PA. I've gotten a 6" barrel for my I-frame 22 HFT from him and he seems to have a bunch (see Gun Broker.) You might find a 4" barrel so you could keep the same holster!
3) Your cylinder problem could be something as simple as built up grease, powder and assorted other crud. If you clean it thoroughly or have it cleaned, your problem my go away. If not, I would contact David Chicoine about a replacement hand.
That should get you going. Watch out for a raft of other advice from this bunch... we all seem to be getting excited about the little I-frames for some unexplainable reason. Enjoy!
Froggie
PS Love the star inlay on the right grip!
OK, to take some of your questions one at a time,
1) I'm guessing the barrel started out as a 6". I may be wrong, but it looks like the markings were waaay out there and would have centered on a 6".
2) My first choice to look for a barrel would be Larry Poppert in PA. I've gotten a 6" barrel for my I-frame 22 HFT from him and he seems to have a bunch (see Gun Broker.) You might find a 4" barrel so you could keep the same holster!
3) Your cylinder problem could be something as simple as built up grease, powder and assorted other crud. If you clean it thoroughly or have it cleaned, your problem my go away. If not, I would contact David Chicoine about a replacement hand.
That should get you going. Watch out for a raft of other advice from this bunch... we all seem to be getting excited about the little I-frames for some unexplainable reason. Enjoy!
Froggie
PS Love the star inlay on the right grip!
Thanks for the info. I start a search for a replacement barrel first.
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Pastprime,
Have you shot it yet? I believe it will shoot just fine the way it is. It's been renickled already so I see little benefit in replacing the barrel, or spending much money on it, especially if it shoots well.
The front sight is not that crudely attached, it just has extra solder on the blade and joint. I would tape off the barrel with masking tape around the sight to protect it. Then carefully sand off the excess solder with 800 grit wet or dry sandpaper. Then finish up with 1000 grit and polish it out so it matches the nickel. I'd start with 400 grit on the muzzle to clean up the machining marks and finish it up like the sight.
The cylinder is simple to fix. Notice the ratchet teeth on the edge contacted by the hand. They will be burred. Open the cylinder and with the rear face pointing up in a padded vise, gently tighten down on the extractor that sticks out the front.
Use a flat nose punch and very gently tap straight down on the burred edge of each tooth. Now close the cylinder and try it to see if the cylinder "carries up" far enough to lock into position. If not or if some chambers do and others don't, do some more tapping on the teeth that still have a problem. You can also tap the end of the hand to lengthen it but that involves removing from the gun and is only needed in extreme cases. It will be good for another 25 years!
If tightening the tension screw on the fore grip doesn't improve the too light trigger pull or if it's already tightened as far as it goes it will need some action work. Google Smith & Wesson gunsmithing and there's plenty of sites and books to guide you thru it. If you aren't comfortable doing that, it's the only work I would pay to have done by a gunsmith on this gun.
Good luck and let us know how you make out!
Have you shot it yet? I believe it will shoot just fine the way it is. It's been renickled already so I see little benefit in replacing the barrel, or spending much money on it, especially if it shoots well.
The front sight is not that crudely attached, it just has extra solder on the blade and joint. I would tape off the barrel with masking tape around the sight to protect it. Then carefully sand off the excess solder with 800 grit wet or dry sandpaper. Then finish up with 1000 grit and polish it out so it matches the nickel. I'd start with 400 grit on the muzzle to clean up the machining marks and finish it up like the sight.
The cylinder is simple to fix. Notice the ratchet teeth on the edge contacted by the hand. They will be burred. Open the cylinder and with the rear face pointing up in a padded vise, gently tighten down on the extractor that sticks out the front.
Use a flat nose punch and very gently tap straight down on the burred edge of each tooth. Now close the cylinder and try it to see if the cylinder "carries up" far enough to lock into position. If not or if some chambers do and others don't, do some more tapping on the teeth that still have a problem. You can also tap the end of the hand to lengthen it but that involves removing from the gun and is only needed in extreme cases. It will be good for another 25 years!
If tightening the tension screw on the fore grip doesn't improve the too light trigger pull or if it's already tightened as far as it goes it will need some action work. Google Smith & Wesson gunsmithing and there's plenty of sites and books to guide you thru it. If you aren't comfortable doing that, it's the only work I would pay to have done by a gunsmith on this gun.
Good luck and let us know how you make out!
Nice project; keep us posted on progress.
Further information: the square butt configuration means that gun is a .32 Regulation Police. S&W introduced this model in 1917 at about serial number 258000. It is the same as the .32 Hand Ejector, but the frame has been "rebated" (stepped) on the backstrap so that larger wooden grips can be fitted to the frame. On guns with rebated frames, the serial number is stamped on the forestrap of the grip because the longer wooden stocks on the RP model conceal the bottom of the grip frame.
Standard barrel lengths on these were 3.25, 4.25 and 6 inches. I agree with Froggie that a six-inch barrel is a possibility, but I wouldn't exclude the possibility that this gun shipped with a 4.25" barrel originally, and that it was only slightly trimmed to deal with muzzle damage.
Further information: the square butt configuration means that gun is a .32 Regulation Police. S&W introduced this model in 1917 at about serial number 258000. It is the same as the .32 Hand Ejector, but the frame has been "rebated" (stepped) on the backstrap so that larger wooden grips can be fitted to the frame. On guns with rebated frames, the serial number is stamped on the forestrap of the grip because the longer wooden stocks on the RP model conceal the bottom of the grip frame.
Standard barrel lengths on these were 3.25, 4.25 and 6 inches. I agree with Froggie that a six-inch barrel is a possibility, but I wouldn't exclude the possibility that this gun shipped with a 4.25" barrel originally, and that it was only slightly trimmed to deal with muzzle damage.
Here is an update on my project:
I whimped out on changing the barrel myself. Too many tools and too much experience that I do not have. About a week after I contacted David Chicoine to see if he had a barrel which he did not, I found one on Gunbroker and bought it. It is a 6" nickel and looks very good. Coincidentally, Mr. Green Frog, it was being sold by Larry Poppert. According to David, the barrel was 6" before being cut. Only issue is that the nickel is yellowed slightly and does not match the frame as well as I would like. But, for something around 90 years old, I can't complain.
What I did not know when I first contacted David was that he was only about an hours drive from me. So, I'm going to take the revolver and barrel to him and he will install it and also address the lockup issue. He will also take care of anything else that is needed to make it safe to shoot.
I really like to tinker with firearms but in this case, I will let a professional do it. If it was something made later and more parts were available, I would have tried it. But, with something this old, spare parts are just too hard to find.
I'll post a picture or two when I get it back.
Hank
I whimped out on changing the barrel myself. Too many tools and too much experience that I do not have. About a week after I contacted David Chicoine to see if he had a barrel which he did not, I found one on Gunbroker and bought it. It is a 6" nickel and looks very good. Coincidentally, Mr. Green Frog, it was being sold by Larry Poppert. According to David, the barrel was 6" before being cut. Only issue is that the nickel is yellowed slightly and does not match the frame as well as I would like. But, for something around 90 years old, I can't complain.
What I did not know when I first contacted David was that he was only about an hours drive from me. So, I'm going to take the revolver and barrel to him and he will install it and also address the lockup issue. He will also take care of anything else that is needed to make it safe to shoot.
I really like to tinker with firearms but in this case, I will let a professional do it. If it was something made later and more parts were available, I would have tried it. But, with something this old, spare parts are just too hard to find.
I'll post a picture or two when I get it back.
Hank
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