340PD Titanium cylinder concerns

[1911luver]

has anyone here who owns a s&w revolver with the titanium cylinder had any issues with them as far as erosion? I'm looking at getting a 340PD no lock model. And will follow the no under 120gr magnum rules as well as the no cleaning with abrasives.

Has any owners here who have one of these had any issues with normal recommend use? I had a used 340PD that developed the problem or cylinder erosion. That being said I never disobeyed the cleaning or ammo restriction rules. But the previous owner/s may have.

Also once the errosion starts is the gun then unsafe to shoot/use? Will it get worse until the cylinder blows up or something? Or is it like flame cutting on a top strap where it'll only go so deep and then stop?
Thanks for any help.

 

[BEEMER1]

I have a 360 S&W that had the cylinder erode.

I was shooting a SS Model 60 and was looking for a low flash load for 125 grain JHP 357's. I ended up with a book load of 8 grains of Bullseye and very good accuracy, good velocity, and low flash as seen in our old dark club range.

I decided to use the same load in the 360 with the titanium cylinder and it eroded after a couple of boxes. I sent it back and Smith replaced it with no questions asked. After I got my pistol back, I called the man in Customer Service that deals with reloading questions. He said that the Bullseye burnt at too high a temperature and why would I ever shoot such a load. I told him about the excellent results I had with it in my 60.

His solution was never to load any powder faster than Unique. I did come up with a descent Unique load using 140 grain Silvertips then.

By the way, I talked to him later and he tried the Bullseye load in his 60 with excellent results also.

I would never shoot a pistol once the cylinder started to erode.

 

[Old cop]

I have a no lock 340PD and have had no erosion problems but I don't shoot it often. I use a Model 37 for the range and only shoot the 340 a few times a year.

 

[Pitdog02]

Just like old cop says made to carry a lot and shoot a little. Had a 340 erode you will stop shooting it when your face bleeds from shrapnel.Switched to the 340 and 360 SS models cant notice weight difference anymore.

 

[rwsmith]

Titanium SOUNDS cool....

...and you would think it would hold up but hot, high velocity gas is different than plain heat.

If you want to get exotic with gun parts exposed to tough conditions, it might be better to go the 'jet/rocket alloys' metals like Hastelloy X or inconel.

 

[1911luver]

Thanks guys. So would using 38's to practice and 135gr 357 short barrel gold dots or 140,158gr 357 ammo prevent the errosion issue from happening? Should I Just go with a no lock M&P 340 instead?

I'm kicking it around but I like the look of the PD better,if that doesn't sound weird?

 

[michpatriot]

Shoot a lil bit then carry it.

Well I have just this week noticed the first scratches of erosion starting on my 340 PD...and I was absolutely careful in all ways with my titanium cylinder, only cleaned it with a nylon brush, used Hoppes elite and only fired Gold dot 357 135 gr short barrel and Winchester white box 38. A guess at the round count is around 500 rounds, majority were gold dot 135 gr. I also have a 340 MP that I fitted a ti cylinder on it, this one has been shot several thousand rounds and cleaned with little care other than using Hoppes elite or M pro7, I even used a bronze brush, and it has no signs of erosion. The Mp340 that I fitted with the ti cyl also has shot lead and full power magnums a lot, I think the erosion is a little bit hit or miss on these ti cyl revolvers. I like the light weight and likely will always carry one of these AirLites but if you plan on a lot of shooting, Buy Both, I know it's crazy but shoot the PD a bit to make sure it hits where you want, and then clean it and just carry it, save the range work for the MP340. I think I'm gonna put the stainless cylinder back in my MP and use it for the range slave from now on and fit a new ti cylinder in the 340PD and that's my solution. I ain't sending it back to the mothership I'll just do it myself so I don't have to be without my daily carry. Mas Ayoob just did a review on his very well used MP340 and he feels that it's the strongest AirLite/Airweight J-magnum and speaks very highly of his, if you aren't scared of shoot a little carry a lot, get the PD, it carries like nothing else. For me, in a pocket all day there is a noticeable difference between the PD and MP weight wise, I know there's not a lot between 11.4oz and 13.3oz but for me it's worth every penny.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

I think the trick to these little buggers is to stick with 38 loads. I have a 337 and I've shot it for function and can hit center mass at 5 yards. That's it. Gun is for carry a lot ans shoot once or twice. never felt tfe need to practice with it-for that I use a 638 with the steel cylinder. And the weight difference between the 638 and 337 is substantial-even if only 2 oz. Believe it or not but what I like most about the 337 is the lanyard pin. I have a three inch twine fob on the gun that I really like as it helps to locate it in the pocket.

 

[gnystrom]

I have owned a 340PD since they came out. I have no visible erosion. I I have used a variety of non ammonia solvents but I do use bronze brushes for every cleaning. I have treated this gun no differently than my all steel guns. The vast bulk of my shooting has been with handloads somewhere in the area of 5gr. Unique under a 125gr. plated bullet.
I do believe S&W swapped to a steel cylinder if a customer sent in a severely eroded ti version.

 

[Cal44]

I looked at 340PDs and decided if I bought an AirLite 357 Magnum I'd get a steel cylinder M&P 340 instead.

I don't think the ounce or two lower weight is really worth the hassle of dealing with Titanium.

Especially in a 357 Magnum gun that is so light it's hard to shoot even in the steel cylinder version.

 

[HOUSTON RICK]

I have had one for a year with no problems around 300 rounds. I use heavy enough factory ammo. I have other S&W alloy guns and have had no issues.

 

[Echo40]

I honestly think that lightweight revolvers are designed around the concept of being used exclusively for self-defense, and simply lack the necessary durability to be shot frequently at the range with hot ammunition.

I could be wrong, but based on how often you hear about lightweight revolvers getting worn out or even damaged from a steady diet of even simple factory loaded ammunition seems to indicate otherwise, and don't even get me started about the wide range of cleaning supplies which can damage lightweight revolvers or what that would suggest in regards to their overall durability.

Alloys and polymers may be perfectly sufficient for the frames of semiautomatic pistols, but revolvers seem to hold up poorly when it comes to frequent use.
They seem to do alright if you're firing lower pressure ammunition in them such as .38 Special out of a .357 Magnum, but when it comes to magnum loads, all I ever read about are them breaking down quickly under the strain.

 

[HOUSTON RICK]

I honestly think that lightweight revolvers are designed around the concept of being used exclusively for self-defense, and simply lack the necessary durability to be shot frequently at the range with hot ammunition.

I could be wrong, but based on how often you hear about lightweight revolvers getting worn out or even damaged from a steady diet of even simple factory loaded ammunition seems to indicate otherwise, and don't even get me started about the wide range of cleaning supplies which can damage lightweight revolvers or what that would suggest in regards to their overall durability.

Alloys and polymers may be perfectly sufficient for the frames of semiautomatic pistols, but revolvers seem to hold up poorly when it comes to frequent use.
They seem to do alright if you're firing lower pressure ammunition in them such as .38 Special out of a .357 Magnum, but when it comes to magnum loads, all I ever read about are them breaking down quickly under the strain.

Agreed, my 340 Airlite is purely defense. I make sure I practice, but I would not call it fun to shoot especially with 357 mag. They hold up if you follow the rules.

 

[1911luver]

Thanks for all the info everyone. I meant to ask what's the best way to go about avoiding the cylinder errosion issue? Are 125gr magnums a bad idea in the 340PD?

Should I stick to 135-158gr stuff in the magnum loads? This is a new gun it'll be in Monday. So I'm assuming the cylinder will be coated with something from the factory to protect the titanium?

The used one I had had developed cylinder erosion after a box so 25 rounds of Remington Golden sabers. But again maybe whoever owned it before me didn't obey the cleaning and ammo restrictions. Thanks again for any additional help on this. I hope I didn't make a $850 mistake.

 

[michpatriot]

Shoot enough magnums and erosion will happen, mine had mostly Gold Dot 135gr 357 short barrel and in less than 500 rounds erosion started. I was really careful cleaning it, only nylon brush and Hoppes elite. Stick to +p and you will shoot a whole lot more rounds. I believe the heavier the 357 round the longer the titanium will last as far as magnums go that is, but if you want longevity stick to 38+p. I just replaced my 340PD cylinder tonight, and like I said less than 500 rounds of 135 gr and a couple boxes of Winchester white box 38 special. OH, and congrats on your purchase..your gonna love how carryable it is. I still trust both of my 340s and feel the PD is worth every penny. And at $850 you got a deal if that's a new one.

 

[kaaskop49]

Thanks for all the info everyone. I meant to ask what's the best way to go about avoiding the cylinder errosion issue? Are 125gr magnums a bad idea in the 340PD?

Should I stick to 135-158gr stuff in the magnum loads? This is a new gun it'll be in Monday. So I'm assuming the cylinder will be coated with something from the factory to protect the titanium?

The used one I had had developed cylinder erosion after a box so 25 rounds of Remington Golden sabers. But again maybe whoever owned it before me didn't obey the cleaning and ammo restrictions. Thanks again for any additional help on this. I hope I didn't make a $850 mistake.

You'll only find out by shooting the gun. As to 125gr magnums, I assume you mean the full charge "planet wreckers." You're kidding, right? I'm a pedal-to-the-metal guy when it comes to ammo selection, but I won't use these in either 340.

I like the CCI Blazer 158gr .357 loads. They're a medium load, and the 5th round in the cylinder will very slightly jump the crimp. The answer, I've found, is to load the 5th chamber with a round that won't C-J. The Blazers are controllable, other shooters say they duplicate .38 +P ammo. I will not shoot the shorter .38 ammo in magnum chambers after some bad experiences, and, as stated above, I want the horsepower.

My oldest Ti cylinder gun is my 360Sc, bought in 2001 when this concept was new. I shoot it sparingly, follow the ammo caveat, and have not had cylinder erosion. "Sparingly" is the operative word, IMO. These guns are for 'feet,' not 'yards' and I can control them. No, you haven't wasted $850; you made a solid investment in your personal security. Wish you well.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[1911luver]

Thanks for the info guys. Also mitchpatriot,the gun is new in box no lock as well.

I'll stick to 38 specials and a cylinder or two of a heavier magnum load to feel recoil and to see where they hit on target.

 

[michpatriot]

I think your going to come home from the range with a grin.. Try not to give in to the temptation to clean the cylinder to like new and you will have a reliable pocket companion for a long time. I liken these 340PD's to a top fuel dragster..loud, and all the power you can handle. You get to choose the level.

 

[kaaskop49]

I think your going to come home from the range with a grin.. Try not to give in to the temptation to clean the cylinder to like new and you will have a reliable pocket companion for a long time. I liken these 340PD's to a top fuel dragster..loud, and all the power you can handle. You get to choose the level.

^^^^what he said. Just shoot .357 loads of the proper bullet weights and be polite to the ".357-loads-are-no-good-in-a-short-barrel" folks. This was disproved in the 1960s when the only magnum snubs were the 2.5" Colt Python and the 2.5" Model 19. The only service loads in general use back then in .38 and .357 calibers were 158gr lead bullets and the mags chrono'd 400fps faster than the .38s in snubs. As Yogi Berra reportedly said, "You could look it up."

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[joebuck]

I have shot a bunch of 125 gr magnums with an 12oz 360sc and that is fun! Buffalo Bore 125gr full power loads are stupid crazy and clock 1275fps out of the 1.9" barrel. One guy said it was like shaking hands with the devil. That gun has not had any cylinder erosion issues but my wife's 386PD just started the erosion nonsense and has been shot only a faction as much. Go figure. It is back at S&W.

I would suggest only shoot the full power mags a little bit and carry them and practice with 38+P's.