I loaded 15 last night with 6.2gr of CFE pistol, 15 with 7.8gr of AA#2, and 15 with 7.5gr of AA#5. Going with a chrono to the outdoor range today to see how they shoot. Also have 50 full power N110 loads for my 686. Will be a fun morning regardless.
Any instances of forcing cone failures with L frames? Or has this been pretty much an issue with K Frame? I would assume J frames have probably experienced it also.
Thanks,
Rosewood
The forcing cone on my 19-2 cracked.
That is an interesting example, but that particular failure, shown in the before and after pics, was likely caused by the erosion which created weak spots in the forcing cone. This was not a Model 19 or Model 66 with the infamous flat spot at the bottom. The forcing cone was already damaged in the "before" pic, and the hoop strength of the metal was reduced. There might have already been a crack, and who knows what kind of ammo was fired from that gun before the author bought it.I would not shoot them in a K frame revolver. That's why the L frame was introduced.
Cracked forcing cones are not a legend, it did happen in the older K frames.
How To Avoid Revolver Forcing Cone Failure | An NRA Shooting Sports Journal
That is an interesting example, but that particular failure, shown in the before and after pics, was likely caused by the erosion which created weak spots in the forcing cone. This was not a Model 19 or Model 66 with the infamous flat spot at the bottom. The forcing cone was already damaged in the "before" pic, and the hoop strength of the metal was reduced. There might have already been a crack, and who knows what kind of ammo was fired from that gun before the author bought it.
The cracks that led to the development of the L-frame were on the bottom, where the forcing cone was flattened in the factory.
The little 110 & 125 JHP bullets at "Atomic" fps , hitting the forcing cone
was very hard on the M19,
where the slower 145 gr or hevier bullets were a lot easier and closer to the bore
with the 158, actually in the bore, when it finally exited the case, making
bullet alinement and impact a lot softer, on the metal parts.
If you notice, todays 110 JHP ammo has been dropped to the 1200fps area
my a lot of company's, for a better load for the K frames and older guns.
Don't get me wrong, I think it is a great article, and thanks for posting it. All good information. Here is one that talks about the development of the L-frame, including the role of the cracked forcing cones, with pics...I know a lot of the article didn't directly pertain to the topic but the bottom did. Since I have no way to edit out all but the topic section I posted it anyway. The information within is good even if not directly related. (IMO of course)
So, are you saying the bullet is what is cracking the forcing cone? I always assumed it was the hot gases and pressure of the gases expanding that was doing the damage? Or is it a combination of both?
Thanks,
Rosewood
I took this bbl off of a 586 that had 75,000+ hot loads put thru it since it's last rebuild.
![]()
The 586 bbl's typically last to the +/- 100,000 round count and then need set back and a new forcing cone cut. The timing also needs redone. That bbl pictured above has been redone 2 times already.
I pulled the bbl because it was shot out/loosing fps & accuracy. The non-drive side of the lands is still sharp/crisp. The forcing cone has erosion and the face has flame cutting where it's supposed to. Namely the 6 o-clock position.
Just wanted to put out there what flame cutting and forcing cone erosion look like.
My first gun purchase was a new 19 in 1975. I put some .38 through it, but predominantly 125gr 357. I was new to handguns and had no idea that it could be detrimental to over do full house loads. I learned. I had no idea of the differences between an N frame and a K frame. I had no thought of keeping a round count. In about a year that gun was loose as a goose and had what looked like the Grand Canyon at 6 o'clock of the forcing cone. That revolver was beautiful, accurate as hell and toast after I got done with it. Don't treat a K frame like you can an N frame.
When the gas ring moved back to the cylinder with the 19-4 / 66-1 engineering change, Smith & Wesson did not return to the less aggressive cut on the barrel flat that pre-dated the yoke-mounted guns. Although it was no longer necessary to make extra room for the yoke-mounted gas ring, they continued to remove an excess of material from the 6 O’Clock position of the barrel extension. To explain, we can only presume that a certain amount of institutional inertia existed, and the company wasn’t nimble enough to abandon the recent production change and return to the old method, which left more material in place on the barrel flat.
It was about this time that S&W began to receive numerous complaints of cracked barrels in the 6 O’Clock area, and a number of warranty returns for the same.
![]()
This S&W Model 66 not only suffered a cracked barrel, but also a cracked frame. (Image from WaGuns.org - View topic - Cracked revolver frame- fixable?)
It is a long article, but worth a read:[Dick] Baker indicated that his first awareness of this barrel cracking problem was circa-1979 (about 3 years after the barrel flats grew larger), when S&W was conducting some endurance testing of the Model 66, using .357 Magnum ammunition. One of the test technicians encountered the “sticky yoke” condition on two of the test guns (unfortunately, Baker did not indicate how far into the test this was, or how many guns were in the test), and upon examination, they were found to have cracked barrels at 6 O’Clock. After becoming aware of this issue in the Stainless Combat Magnum, Baker stated that he went to the Outside Repair Department at S&W, and, “inquired if they had ever seen cracked barrels in the (blued Model 19) K-Frames, and they said they had,” suggesting that the problem was linked to “hot handloads.”