.357 loads that are easy on a 19-3 and 66-1

Tom S did that. I disagree, as this is not a reloading question, but rather a question about how to treat a specific vintage of a specific model of S&W gently. But, they want all reloading discussions regardless of the purpose over here, so here it is.

You asked specifically about the 19-3 and 66-1 so I responded with my personal experience with my 66-1. BTW, right this minute it's loaded with 180 gr. Black Talon. I don't shoot targets with it. It's strictly a killing machine.
 
13.5 grs of 2400 is one of my target loads and yes , my 2 / 19's shoot it and shoot it well . I have a 4" and a 2.5" versions . The other day I was loading my 2.5" with my H110 load posted above and found it an enjoyable load in the " snubbie " . I have no fear that my 19's will suffer from either of these 2 loads , regards Paul
 
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To be clear, that part of my question is if starting loads of H110/W296 are sufficiently low to not be hard on the K frame .357s.

The real problem with starting loads of H110/W296 isn't whether or not they will be hard on your K frame .357s. Reduced or "starting" loads of H110/W296 are EXTREMELY poor loads. I have tried them and 14.0 grs 296 with a 158 gr cast SWC yields about the same velocity as less than half as much as Titegroup, Bullseye or Win231 with ESs in velocity that is five or six times the ESs of the faster powders. Why waste your money blowing unburnt 296 out the end of your barrel on to the ground unless you just have money or powder you are trying to get rid of?
 
txtad : To answer your question , I firmly believe the starting loads using H110 / W296 will not harm a K-frame 357 . I have owned them and shot them from " mild to wild " for years with no problems whatsoever . That said I NEVER used 125 gr bullets . My loads have ALWAYS used 158-180 gr cast bullets . I love shooting the " Keith " 173 gr " swc in my K-frame 357's . Regards Paul
 
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The real problem with starting loads of H110/W296 isn't whether or not they will be hard on your K frame .357s. Reduced or "starting" loads of H110/W296 are EXTREMELY poor loads. I have tried them and 14.0 grs 296 with a 158 gr cast SWC yields about the same velocity as less than half as much as Titegroup, Bullseye or Win231 with ESs in velocity that is five or six times the ESs of the faster powders. Why waste your money blowing unburnt 296 out the end of your barrel on to the ground unless you just have money or powder you are trying to get rid of?

I totally agree, W296/H110 is one of those powders with a very narrow sweet spot range. Add to that, it downloads very poorly. In a .357 Magnum I have never had any good success with a 158gr bullet and a charge below 15.4gr 296. My best loads are made with 16+ grains. (mostly 16.5gr to 16.7gr)
 
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The real problem with starting loads of H110/W296 isn't whether or not they will be hard on your K frame .357s. Reduced or "starting" loads of H110/W296 are EXTREMELY poor loads. I have tried them and 14.0 grs 296 with a 158 gr cast SWC yields about the same velocity as less than half as much as Titegroup, Bullseye or Win231 with ESs in velocity that is five or six times the ESs of the faster powders. Why waste your money blowing unburnt 296 out the end of your barrel on to the ground unless you just have money or powder you are trying to get rid of?


This is why you really want to use the fastest burning rate powder that will produce the desires velocity for any given load and remain close to or just slightly below maximum safe pressures. This provides the best conditions for complete and uniform combustion of the powder.
 
This is why you really want to use the fastest burning rate powder that will produce the desires velocity for any given load and remain close to or just slightly below maximum safe pressures. This provides the best conditions for complete and uniform combustion of the powder.

Go with what's most accurate (slow, medium, or fast burning powders) and provides a velocity in the range you're looking for. Don't obsess over slight unburned powder residue or ES and SD numbers. Let your chronograph indicate velocity and your group sizes indicate accuracy. Far more reliable.
 
Go with what's most accurate (slow, medium, or fast burning powders) and provides a velocity in the range you're looking for. Don't obsess over slight unburned powder residue or ES and SD numbers. Let your chronograph indicate velocity and your group sizes indicate accuracy. Far more reliable.
I agree. A load that is a bit below desired velocity and/or optimum powder combustion, but is very accurate is far better than a load that meets the velocity goal and/or optimum combustion, but produces poor accuracy.
 
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