357 magum reloading
- Thread starter kd5exp
- Start date
+1. You've already violated one of the basic rules of handloading/shooting handloads: if it doesn't seem right, don't shoot it.
We're over complicating this - either the brass is sized too small for the bullet, or the bullet is too large for the sized case. One or the other. I'd get on the phone w/ the die manufacturer (assuming that the bullets measure .357" as the box in the photo indicates), calipers in hand, as it is likely the die is too small.
Do some studying up on the loading process, be sure to understand not only what you're doing, but why you're doing it (the roll crimp discussion is an example). Handloading is not one of those things to "try". You're either committed to doing it right and educating yourself such, or buy factory.
Read up a little GF1. I explained what I did wrong and it was a case of having my head up where the sun don't shine. Had the wrong die in the press. Stupidity can kill, I was lucky this time. I read on another place that a small bulge in the case is OK and will form out once shot, but I think they were talking about a different problem. Anyway all is well and I move on. I have alot of old reloading books I have read several times and maybe it's time for a newer one. I think the basics are still the same but powders and bullets have changed. I will start up again when the new dies come in.
Yep that will do it
Don't feel bad we have all done similar screw ups. I use a turret press and put the dies for a new caliber in the wrong order, took me longer to figure it out than it should have,
. Of course I was tired, the sun was in my eyes and Mrs Rule was nagging me,
rsrocket1
Member
Up at the top, there is a box that ought to say "Welcome kd5exp."
"You last visited ..."
there is a link to "Private Messages: Unread X, Total Y."
click on that and you should see the messages that were sent to you.
Respectfully suggest that you're the one who needs to read up, but I'm happy to bail out of this one. All the best to you...
That'll teach ya; don't drink and reload!
I would have loved to had a drink but because of medical reasons I had to stop all that years ago. I have read the thread from top to bottom many times, am I missing something GF1. I mean no disrespect, I am just trying to figure out what your talking about. I come here to learn and have learned alot already and don't want to misunderstand something and get it wrong. I have messed up enought already.
I think it is an interpretation on the use of the word Read
As in, I read (pronounced red) up on what I did (past tense) VS to read (present tense)
Past tense of read///////////////? - Yahoo! Answers
As in, I read (pronounced red) up on what I did (past tense) VS to read (present tense)
Past tense of read///////////////? - Yahoo! Answers
ozo
Member
That is how I red, read it or interpreted it. No need to apologize. A miss communication to some.
I started a new thread today because my dies came in yesterday. Tumbled 50 cases last night and followed the instructions. Loaded a few and tried them. Raised the charge just a bit to 3.8 gr and stoped there. They looked great and shot pretty good. Play more with them later. Turned too cold today to get out.
Maximumbob54
Member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2010
- Messages
- 7,202
- Reaction score
- 1,928
I know I joked a bit in my post on that thread but please take my advice. Even if you don't follow it, read up on Titegroup. There are several guys here that won't use it anymore and I'm quickly becoming one of them.
Oh, and you really should try the 2400...
Oh, and you really should try the 2400...
Sorry, don't want to high jack the thread but since 2400 was mentioned... I am kind of lost at the moment: I've purchased 2400, 158 grain LSWC only to find out that Lyman doesn't have that combo - they have 155 and 160 LSWC but not 158, Lee has 158 bullet but doesn't list 2400 for it 
Would it be safe to use either 155 or 160 data for 158 grain ? I'm planning to play it close to min load. Any help would be appreciated.
Would it be safe to use either 155 or 160 data for 158 grain ? I'm planning to play it close to min load. Any help would be appreciated.
Maximumbob54
Member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2010
- Messages
- 7,202
- Reaction score
- 1,928
I would use the 160 gr load data. Try checking your bullets on a scale and you will be shocked at the difference in many of them. It's as much if not more the seating depth though. But that's why you are supposed to work up a load and new info to me it's also why we should all have a chronometer.
I have read all the posts and am aware of the dislike some have for Titegroup but I've used close to 24lbs of it in the last 4 years with nary a problem. To keep on track with the subject here 3.8gr is a fantastic .38spl load and 5gr makes for a pleasant shooting .357mag load. All with 158gr. cast lead. There's no doubt that Titegroup is an easy powder to make a mistake with but that's no reason to condemn it. It's no more dangerous than the loaded weapons we shoot with.
I've weighed about half a dozen of them: from 157.4 to 158.1 grains. Is it good, bad, average ? About the sitting depth, I understand that deeper you push it in the smaller volume left for powder to burn the higher the pressure, but if I follow OAL I should be fine, right. Sorry if I am asking stuff that is common knowledge, it's all new to me
Final question does 13 gr of 2400 under 158 LSWC 18 BNH sound like a good start ? I know it's below max, but is it underpowered ? I've read undercharge might be as bad as overgcharge... Maybe I should just read less 
Skip Sackett
US Veteran
One thing that will help too is to not use nickel plated brass. It is much less forgiving when expanding than standard brass.
Since yours has to stretch to seal off, it would be better to use the regular brass anyway.
Hope that helps.
Sorry, don't want to high jack the thread but since 2400 was mentioned... I am kind of lost at the moment: I've purchased 2400, 158 grain LSWC only to find out that Lyman doesn't have that combo - they have 155 and 160 LSWC but not 158, Lee has 158 bullet but doesn't list 2400 for it
You can use the next higher bullet weight load data, In this case it is so close 158 to 160 it makes no difference. Load a few at the start load and try those. I have not pulled out the manual so I do not know the exact numbers. Just load to the crimp groove (cannelure) and you are good to go.
Thanks, Rule. I've decided to lower it even more, so made a small batch with 12 gr of 2400 under 158 gr bullet. Recoil was very very mild, for me it felt like 38+. I've noticed some what felt like unburnt powder. Is it normal ? What might be a cause of that? Bullet was seated to match OAL of 1.590 (well actually it was more like 1.592).
Skip Sackett
US Veteran
As with working with all powders, they have their "optimum operating pressure" range and once outside of that, you will have varied results. Too low and you have your phenomenon, unburnt powder. Some powders get really spikey and squirelly when they are at the upper end or over of their pressure ranges, Clays is one of those.
If you bump up your load to the minimum, which you should have never gone under, you will see some of that go away. Take it to midway and even more will depart. At the upper range of 2400, there will be none.
The danger of going below the listed data on a slow burning magnum pistol powder is that you can have a squib and stick a bullet in the barrel. Follow that up with one that happens to light off good enough to get some velocity behind it, and you have the perfect condition to see a gun come apart. Not cool.
Personally, let me give you some advice: Never go below the starting loads of any powder again. If you want to back down on velocity or OOMPH, choose a different powder.
Be safe, have fun.
If you bump up your load to the minimum, which you should have never gone under, you will see some of that go away. Take it to midway and even more will depart. At the upper range of 2400, there will be none.
The danger of going below the listed data on a slow burning magnum pistol powder is that you can have a squib and stick a bullet in the barrel. Follow that up with one that happens to light off good enough to get some velocity behind it, and you have the perfect condition to see a gun come apart. Not cool.
Personally, let me give you some advice: Never go below the starting loads of any powder again. If you want to back down on velocity or OOMPH, choose a different powder.
Be safe, have fun.
Thanks, Skip, I guess that was the reason, even though I didn't go under. Lyman says for 160 gr min is 11.4, for 155 gr 10.6; I choose 12 at starting apparently it was too low, going to make 13 & 14 batches (max by Lyman is 15.5) and see how it performs.
What Skip said above covers it^^^.
Yes its "normal" but not right, The unburned is from in complete burn or combustion because you used less powder than recommended. I know, it seems weird but just the way it is. The powder folks and manuals test all this for a reason,
I load most all my ammo to the midrange of the recipe, I do not want mouse farts but I also do not need full house magnums for shooting paper. Every once and and a while I will push them but just for fun.
As to OAL, as I said crimp in the top of the groove and don't worry about it. I and many others do not even measure lead bullets with crimp grooves.
Maximumbob54
Member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2010
- Messages
- 7,202
- Reaction score
- 1,928
It's an annoying reality that most powders don't burn all the little bits unless they are loaded near or at max pressure for that load. I have forced myself to stop trying to ask "what's a cleaner burning powder" and just keep moving forward. If anything, I now try to stick with powders that are more suited to the load I'm using. Like if I'm loading 148gr WC ammo I tend to use Bullseye as it's a classic with that. If I'm loading 158gr SWC then I load with HP-38/Win 231 and lately I'm trying Win WSF. And of course if I load anything magnum then like a broken record I will keep saying I prefer 2400.
