38 Special Brass questions
- Thread starter cballman
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Lots of complicated/complex info. so far. But, for all intents and purposes, the only difference in +P and standard .38 Special brass is the headstamp. I wondered about this around '86 and I weighed mebbe 100 mixed .38 cases. "Blind test"; I would place a case on the scale without looking at the headstamp, and wasn't able to determine which was which with any consistency. Some .38 manufacturer's brass is heavier than others, but I was not able to determine the maker buy weight as even the same manufacturer's brass would vary up to 1.5-2.0 grains, untrimmed (different lots?).
NJM15
Member
No problems
I've loaded none +p brass to +p specs and had no problems at all, even went to almost max with same results.
I've loaded none +p brass to +p specs and had no problems at all, even went to almost max with same results.
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+P or not, even if brass is separated by headstamp, there may be a little variation in case weight and wall thickness from varying lots, but the separated brass batches will be more uniform than leaving everything mixed. When I deeply seat cast wadcutter bullets for use in an S&W 52, I can feel a noticeable difference in case wall thickness if I change brass.
Whether brass separation will be advantageous to a handloader will depend on the accuracy potential of the gun and skill level of the shooter. Most of us won't see a difference using mixed brass, even if the process is second-rate.
Whether brass separation will be advantageous to a handloader will depend on the accuracy potential of the gun and skill level of the shooter. Most of us won't see a difference using mixed brass, even if the process is second-rate.
DWalt
Member
"I often see people comparing 38 special cases to 38 special +P cases by weighing them. This probably comes close to determine their interchangeability but volume is the most accurate."
Not so. If the external dimensions are identical, two cases of the exact same weight will have the exact same internal capacity. And for cases of the same brand, the external dimensions are extremely likely to be identical.
Not so. If the external dimensions are identical, two cases of the exact same weight will have the exact same internal capacity. And for cases of the same brand, the external dimensions are extremely likely to be identical.
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Ole Joe Clark
Absent Comrade
I have a few thousand 38's, a mixture of plus P and regular, plated and unplated. I don't trim them, separate them, wash them, I just look for splits, reload and shoot them.
The key is to enjoy them, that's what 38 Specials are for, your shooting pleasure.
Have a blessed day,
Leon
You should be able to sell them here. There is a Accessories/Misc section in the classifieds area. The last brass I bought was $.06 per piece. That would be $3 per box or a total of $60 for 20 boxes. You might be able to get a little more with the original boxes and packaging, but shipping will also be more.
Also it should be noted this thread was started 7 years ago and revived 4 years ago. Starting a new thread is generally seen as the best way to get a question answered. You can note that 4 people have posted since the thread was revived but no one noticed the most recent question.
ggibson511960
Member
Why Does Wall Thickness Matter?
I've heard the explanation for years about such and such case being suitable for higher pressures because of its wall thickness. It makes no sense to me. The brass case is a soft and weak ductile membrane compared to the structural steel walls of the chamber. Its pressure retention job is like a confined O-ring or gasket, to expand and seal against irregularities. Comparing web thickness, i.e. the amount of material above the primer pocket makes more sense. I believe this is the situation with old style "balloon head" cases in that they have less material between primer pocket and case volume. It would also make more sense if we were considering a rimless case used in an autoloader with an un-supported area for the feed ramp cutout. Like most reloaders I have experienced case splits and head separations, but this is due to reduced ductility from repeated reloads or excessive headspace. Once a brass case obturates a few thousands of an inch, properly dimensioned chamber walls are doing all the work.
I've heard the explanation for years about such and such case being suitable for higher pressures because of its wall thickness. It makes no sense to me. The brass case is a soft and weak ductile membrane compared to the structural steel walls of the chamber. Its pressure retention job is like a confined O-ring or gasket, to expand and seal against irregularities. Comparing web thickness, i.e. the amount of material above the primer pocket makes more sense. I believe this is the situation with old style "balloon head" cases in that they have less material between primer pocket and case volume. It would also make more sense if we were considering a rimless case used in an autoloader with an un-supported area for the feed ramp cutout. Like most reloaders I have experienced case splits and head separations, but this is due to reduced ductility from repeated reloads or excessive headspace. Once a brass case obturates a few thousands of an inch, properly dimensioned chamber walls are doing all the work.
All manufacturers vary.....
But the only difference in a plus p case is the headstamp has a 'plus p' on it. It doesn't matter whether I load target or barn burners, I don't pay attention to the headstamp, just label the box they are in.
The only differences between .38 special brass and .357 is that the headstamp says .357 magnum and the case is longer than a .38, the ONLY reason for this is to keep from loading a magnum round ina .38 pistol.
I have all kinds of brass, some is thin as paper. (I call it 'one shot' brass because it's not fit for reloading. A also have some Starlines that feel like they about 1/16" thick. HEAVY walls and hard to resize. And I have different thicknesses .38, .38 +P and .357 brass.
But the only difference in a plus p case is the headstamp has a 'plus p' on it. It doesn't matter whether I load target or barn burners, I don't pay attention to the headstamp, just label the box they are in.
The only differences between .38 special brass and .357 is that the headstamp says .357 magnum and the case is longer than a .38, the ONLY reason for this is to keep from loading a magnum round ina .38 pistol.
I have all kinds of brass, some is thin as paper. (I call it 'one shot' brass because it's not fit for reloading. A also have some Starlines that feel like they about 1/16" thick. HEAVY walls and hard to resize. And I have different thicknesses .38, .38 +P and .357 brass.
Moe Mentum
Member
The +P is there to let you know that the round is +P, otherwise there is no difference in the casing.
