3913 muzzle flip

[reckless2k2]

Looking for advice on cause.

I took my 3913 and my 3913LS to range the other day. Both are recent purchases of used guns.

The 3913 is sweet. The 3913LS has been a bit of a hassle.

I noticed the 3913LS jumping a lot more than the 3913 using the same ammo. The 3913LS looks a lot dirtier inside using the same ammo compared to the 3913. The front is a lot dirtier too on the outside compared.

Both slides rack fine.

I'm wondering what may be causing the issue.

Thanks.

 

[Pocketfisherman]

Weak recoil spring, action is opening while still too much pressure in the barrel-chamber.

 

[yeti]

I concur with Pocketfisherman. Time for a fresh recoil spring.

 

[reckless2k2]

Recommendation taken.

The Numrich site has a number of recoil springs (part 59).

Which should I pick?

• 
  Recoil spring (nothing specified)
  16 pound
  17 pound
  18 pound
  20 pound

Thanks again.

 

[MR835]

SPRINGS

LOOK HERE


Springs for SMITH & WESSON NUMBERED SERIES Semi-Auto Pistols

MR835 IS GONE

 

[Fastbolt]

No need to over-think replacing the recoil springs.

Call and order a couple of the factory recoil springs. Might as well replace the mag springs while you're at it.

If you shoot a lot, order more than one of each spring and save yourself the trouble a few years from now.

S&W armorers are told to replace recoil & mag springs on the 3rd gen pistols either every 5,000 rounds fired, or every 5 years (of leaving the mags loaded), whichever occurs first. I tend to replace my recoil springs sooner than that on my own 3913, but then my issued ammo has been both 127gr +P+ and 124gr +P, so the springs take a bit more of a beating.

 

[GaryS]

Is there any reason to use anything but the OEM springs? I have a bunch of them that I've bought from Brownells. I changed the spring in my 3913TSW and was surprised at how much longer the replacement springs are.

My guess on that was that the spring just compressed from age. I'm going to change the recoil spring on the 3913 I picked up at a LGS today.

No need to over-think replacing the recoil springs.

Call and order a couple of the factory recoil springs. Might as well replace the mag springs while you're at it.

If you shoot a lot, order more than one of each spring and save yourself the trouble a few years from now.

S&W armorers are told to replace recoil & mag springs on the 3rd gen pistols either every 5,000 rounds fired, or every 5 years (of leaving the mags loaded), whichever occurs first. I tend to replace my recoil springs sooner than that on my own 3913, but then my issued ammo has been both 127gr +P+ and 124gr +P, so the springs take a bit more of a beating.

 

[Fastbolt]

Is there any reason to use anything but the OEM springs? I have a bunch of them that I've bought from Brownells. I changed the spring in my 3913TSW and was surprised at how much longer the replacement springs are.

My guess on that was that the spring just compressed from age. I'm going to change the recoil spring on the 3913 I picked up at a LGS today.

Being a long time 1911 owner/shooter, I've spent some time playing with spring rates.

The more years I've spent shooting an assortment of different guns, using factory ammo (no gaming/bunny loads), the more I saw the value and practicality of staying with stock recoil spring rates.

The stock bilious green color/painted 391X/908/690X recoil springs are fine and work well in the guns.

 

[D Rock]

+1 for Brownells.
Smith & Wesson 3913 Recoil Springs | Recoil Parts at Brownells

I always need something else to fill in an order.

Dave

 

[GaryS]

Those are the ones I have. I also have some factory magazine springs squirreled away. Every once in a while, I'll order a few more from Brownells, just to have a sufficient stock.

While on the subject of springs, what about the main spring on the 3rd generation guns? I mean the one that goes down the length of the butt and is held in place by the grips. I think that's the main spring.

Is there a reason to replace those on a regular basis?

As always, thanks for you comments and suggestions.

Being a long time 1911 owner/shooter, I've spent some time playing with spring rates.

The more years I've spent shooting an assortment of different guns, using factory ammo (no gaming/bunny loads), the more I saw the value and practicality of staying with stock recoil spring rates.

The stock bilious green color/painted 391X/908/690X recoil springs are fine and work well in the guns.

 

[D Rock]

GaryS, there probably isn't a reason to replace the mainspring (hammer spring) unless you are getting light strikes and can't attribute it to anything else.

I've only got two of these pistols and when I got them I ordered the Wolff service packs and replaced all the springs.
Springs for SMITH & WESSON NUMBERED SERIES Semi-Auto Pistols

I didn't need to but I wanted to take the pistols apart any way and thought I'd just replace the springs. My mainspring was pretty corroded looking but still functioned just fine. I also tried one of the lighter mainsprings along with a lighter trigger return spring just to see how much the DA pull would change. I didn't have a trigger gauge but it seemed to improve the DA pull. I still went back to stock and am pretty happy with the pull.

Dave

 

[Fastbolt]

When I returned from my first 3rd gen pistol armorer class ('90's) I started buying and collecting extra spare/repair parts for my own stash, looking ahead to the day when I'd be retired, but still wanting to maintain my own guns. That included mainsprings for the full-size & compact guns.

I still have an unused collection of a lot of mainsprings. Good thing they were cheap.

I've not seen one become worn out, which isn't surprising as the springs aren't kept fully compressed as they would be in 1911's (which can require periodic replacement in working guns left cocked & locked for most of the time).

I don't recall needing a new factory mainspring over the course of having seen issued 3rd gen guns used since '90. It's normally mentioned in armorer classes as being a spring that seldom "wears out". (Another one that seldom requires replacement due to simple wear is the stock drawbar plunger spring. I've got a lot of unused new ones of those, too.)

I'll keep the springs, as sooner or later someone may come by with a clipped or damaged spring and need a repair replacement.

I never got around to ordering any of the really short mainsprings used in the Chiefs Special guns, even though I own and use a couple of them (and I've used a pretty fair number of recoil & mag springs in them over the years).

They can get pretty grungy looking, huh? No reason they can't be wiped down with a lightly moistened patch (oil/CLP) during an armorer inspection, though.

I've come to look at 3rd gen mainsprings rather like S&W revolver coil & leaf springs. How many of them require replacement for normal wear, versus because of someone fooling around with them?

 

[Fastbolt]

... with a lighter trigger return spring just to see how much the DA pull would change. ...

I'd be careful of using lighter drawbar plunger springs in a working gun. Sporting/comp gun? If you think it'll help, it's not like lives are on the line.

I did so once upon a time, to test them, and in one of the guns I started getting a Skips-DA problem. The hammer would fall too soon in the DA mode, before it was supposed to be released off the throw notch of the hammer. Wrong timing in its fall and not enough impact force.

An insufficiently tensioned drawbar plunger spring may not keep the tail of the drawbar fully tensioned upward, keeping the drawbar's tail (notches) properly lifted up to engage the hammer's pick-up & throw notches. This is one of the reasons why armorers check the upward lift & "snap" and lift of a drawbar during an inspection, checking for proper tension, so the drawbar can consistently work with the hammer's DA notches.

A lighter spring may fail to lift the drawbar tail fast enough, or high enough, even under "normal" conditions of cleanliness, but might fail even more quickly if the gun becomes dirty, contaminated, etc.

If the drawbar tail isn't lifted high enough, firmly enough, for the tail's corresponding notches to be "handed off" from the hammer's pick-up notches to the throw notches, the hammer is dropped between them, falling forward too soon. (I say "notches" because the machined cut up the center of the hammer notches divides them into a set on each side. It's considered correct to just say pick-up notch & throw notch, for both the hammer and the drawbar.)

 

[D Rock]

Fastbolt, thanks for the explanation on the plunger spring. I always learn something new from your posts.

In my case I always leave my pistols stock, whether for carry or range use. But the same curiosity that makes me want to take a new pistol apart made me order and try the lighter springs from Wolff. At this late stage in my life I doubt I'll ever go to an armorer's school but I can't help my interest in how things function.

Always good to get info from you to add to my mental notes; thanks.

Dave

 

[Fastbolt]

De nada Dave.

You can always use my listed email address if you have occasional questions. My PM box fills rapidly and can reject PM's.

 

[D Rock]

Thank you Fastbolt, I appreciate it.

Dave

 

[D7dun]

FYI_

Called S&W on my 3913s and they sent me two recoil springs-no charge!

D

 

[Detective_Special]

Recoil spring

Weak recoil spring, action is opening while still too much pressure in the barrel-chamber.

+1

I ALWAYS replace the recoil spring on any, and all used guns I buy. Even an older model that is NIB.

 

[reckless2k2]

Yep. Replaced the recoil spring and am not having the problem now.

Thanks.

 

[Fastbolt]

Cool.

Make sure the alloy rails stay sufficiently lubed. You ought to be able to see the shiny wetness on the rails, and have it come off on your finger if you touch the rails (on a field-stripped gun) ... but it shouldn't be so much that gravity makes it run out of the gun and wick off onto your holster or clothes, or migrate to the inside of the frame, magazine, breech face of the slide, barrel chamber, etc.

I've used a variety of some of the good quality oils and lightweight, synthetic greases on the market. Grease can remain where you put it better than light oils, and this might be handy if you're constantly exposing the holstered gun to changes in temperature, humidity, moisture, etc (working near bodies of water or the ocean), but periodic inspections to make sure the gun is clean, lubed and free of unwanted contaminants is still a good way to make sure it's properly maintained. (Which can sometimes spin off into another discussion of why it's NOT a good idea to repeatedly chamber/eject the same round when field-stripping & then loading the gun again. )