.44 Hand Ejector, 2nd Model Update

Thanks all, will find a competent gun smith near me that will take on the project. Okay if it takes a while and costs a bit.
About when did this gun ship? Checking with Roy, but have not heard back from him.
Really happy to have a 44 in my collection. Sold three that I should have kept.
Triple-lock .44 Spl Nickel 6 1/2"
.44 Mag 4" 4 screw. Don't know if it was 29 or pre-29. 99% in the blue/black box.
Mod 24-3 6" new in the box.
Not only sold them, but sold them too cheap. Three guys with a story to tell their buddies about the moron in Texas with the nice .44's.
This project will ease my pain.
 
Throne Arms. He's in Trinidad Colorado but he comes highly recommended.
 
I have used Alex Hamilton, ten ring precision for all of my gunsmithing needs. It doesn't hurt to make a call.
 
Took the gun to a gun smith near me today. Said maybe a month for the repair. Most expensive items the hand he thought maybe $50 and another $50 to fit it. $100 to reshape trigger guard. $20 for a mainspring. Thought maybe around $250 total.
Does that sound fair?
Also wondering an approximate value after I get it going.
Thanks for the help.
 
The $100 to fix the trigger guard is a shocker. Maybe he's never done one. The worst one I ever did took me 20 minutes including removing the trigger. I'd make sure he's got an unbent N frame to copy/reference or I doubt it'll be properly contoured when it's done. And it shouldn't need any bluing touch up when it's done right.
 
If the trigger guard contour is the same on my Registered Magnum, I could take it in for him to look at.
Sounds like he may be unfamiliar if he wants $100 for a 20 minute job.
 
It occurs to me that if your father took the gun apart, and never re-assembled it, there was probably something wrong with it, in the first place. Maybe nothing more than a broken mainspring, for which its not necessary to take the gun all apart. Maybe something else is wrong, as well.

Regards, Mike Priwer
 
Mike, It's easier than you might think. Get a large vise. Put the frame in the vice jaws with a piece of wood between the jaws and the trigger guard and likewise between the jaw and the top of the frame. Slowly apply pressure while observing the trigger guard shape. It will gradually bend back to it's correct curvature. At least it always did for me. Ed
 
David,
Congratulations! It looks like you've got a worthwhile project -and, a 5" bbl. to boot!
When I found my original finish .44 HE, 2nd Model in the Texas Hill Country a couple of years ago, members here told me "5 inchers" were not commonly seen. Like many revolvers back in that time, the original stocks were replaced with "Pointer Pup" stocks.
(I've since gotten a pair of Keith Brown, non-medallions.)

Please keep us posted on your progress.
-Bill

SN 27212, Moments After Purchase for a Cool $1,100


Left Side View, for Reference
 
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David,

Putting it back together is a great idea. Hopefully, all will go well and it will function as it should. If not, then is the time to contact an Alex Hamilton or Andy Horvath. I would be reluctant to let a gunsmith who is unfamiliar with old S&W revolvers learn on one of mine.

Looking forward to hearing of the progress and a range report.

Kevin
 
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Congrats on your project and keep us posted. I have a 5" 2nd model that shows its mileage but does good on paper.
137fd83a04fa909d3ec9a2cdbbbde884.jpg
 
It takes almost as much to write it as to do it:

No real secret, and glad to share just what has been successful for me in the past using some old auto bodywork techniques.

The good news is, it's very easy to fix especially since it's not 'kinked' and I have re-curved a few. The trigger guard is fairly easy to bend. It's like doing body work on a car by placing a 'dolly' under the areas that need to be raised and hammering on the outside of the trigger guard next to the dolly, not over the dolly.

Use a piece of round metal like steel pipe or even a piece of rounded hard wood as a dolly, as large of a diameter as just fits in the trigger guard, and clamp horizontally in a vise, one end sticking out the side of the vise. Wrap pipe with several layers of masking or duct tape. Hang the gun on this 'dolly' upside down with the trigger guard up. Now take a heavy rawhide mallet or steel hammer padded with several layers of tape padding.

Hold the gun with left hand (if right handed) so the middle of the flattened area rests on the dolly. Tap the trigger guard with the padded hammer on the left and right sides of the dolly. Do not tap the guard directly above the dolly. Keep moving the trigger guard over the dolly. You'll raise the flattened guard a little bit at a time by moving the guard back and forth on the dolly. Don't attempt to raise the dent all at once. The dolly will raise the metal in the area between your taps incrementally to restore the curve. Move the gun around on the dolly as you tap so the curve is restored evenly.

It's critical to have another undamaged trigger guard to constantly refer and compare to. You'll be surprised at how easy this can be to fix. The guard is very malleable. If the guard doesn't reshape, tap a little harder.

Because of the tape padding the surface finish will not be dinged or affected and the repair can be virtually undetectable.

Hope this helps, good luck, and any questions, don't hesitate to ask,
 
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Going to try to order parts to get started. Do not see .44 HE, 2nd Model listed. Are the 1917 parts the same? Looks like everything is available except for the hand and the upper side plate screw.

Talked to Ten Ring Precision in San Antonio. He thought $450- 500 for the project. I thought that sounded a little steep.
 
Yes 1917 parts will work but both parts you need are out of stock at Gunparts.

Other parts suppliers to try:

'Guns & Gun Parts' (Recommended by S&W)
(413) 732-9938
983 Westfield St
West Springfield MA 01089-3813
EMAIL: [email protected]
Guns n Parts - New and Used Guns Bought and Sold. no parts list here.

Liberty Tree Collectors Phone:207-285-3111
139 Main Street, Corinth, ME 04427
Email:[email protected]

Samuel Simmons specializes in reproduced screws and old parts
221 English Hulse Rd
Pocahontas, AR 72455
E-mail: [email protected]
Sam is "hoxycarman870" formerly "ruffkat" on eBay & Gunbroker

GUN GARAGE on Ebay (for screws)
http://stores.ebay.com/Gun-Garage

George Dye
"Salt Lake Collectibles Co."
P.O. Box 57433, Salt Lake City, UT, 84157
phone (205)502-2026

"Aonepawninc" http://stores.ebay.com/aonepawninc
has a bunch of old S&W parts for sale. They are very customer oriented and have very reasonable prices.

Dave Bennett: Parts and guns from 1900 up to 1970's.
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: www.22ammobox.com

Jack First: Large selection of Pre- and Post-WWII parts.
Phone: 605-343-9544
Reproduced firing pins for 22/32 Kit Gun and HFT

Jim Horvath: Many parts for all S&W's (large and small) from 1860 up;
can reproduce parts.
e-Mail: [email protected]

Jeff Lee: Lee's Gun Parts (an extensive supply of gun parts, including S&W) Mike who works for Lee has 45 M25 barrels.
(Open to the public on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays).
3401 W. Pioneer, Suite 2, Irving, TX 75061
Phone: 972-790-0773
Lee's Gun Parts

Jan Matlega: Parts for Pre-WWII S&W hand-ejectors.
Mail Address: 528 Eddy Glover
New Britain, CT 06053
Phone: 860-229-6872

Poppert's Gun Parts: http://www.poppertsgunparts.com/
P.O. Box 413
Glenside, PA 19038
Tel: 215-887-2391 Fax: 215-887-5816
Email: [email protected]

Phil Saccacio: Phone: 540-456-6405
e-Mail: [email protected]

Dave Szilagy: Manufactures parts for older S&W's.
Mail Address: 3107 Electric, Lincoln Park, MI 48146
e-Mail: [email protected]

Mike Veilleux: Guns and Gun Parts
All Parts inc. for Pre- and Post-WWII S&W's.
Phone: 413-732-9938
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: www.gunsnparts.com

S&W Parts; antique and new
[email protected]
Ph: 352 394-7412
 
JADARE said:
Going to try to order parts to get started. Do not see .44 HE, 2nd Model listed. Are the 1917 parts the same? Looks like everything is available except for the hand and the upper side plate screw.

Talked to Ten Ring Precision in San Antonio. He thought $450- 500 for the project. I thought that sounded a little steep.
Click to expand...

Yeah, IMNOHO, that's waaay too high. If you were closer, I'd do it for nothing, get to get another old .44 Smith back in shootin' condition.
 
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