5.56 shoulder issue

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I've reloaded 100 rounds of 5.56 NATO and have an issue. About 20% thru the batch the sizing die loosened up (or I didn't tighten it enough). When I got to the range a bunch of cartridges won't chamber in my DDM4V11, the only rifle I have in this caliber, even with using the forward assist. The diameter is OK but the shoulder has to go back about .005" to chamber. Anyone have any thoughts on how to safely set the shoulder back on a loaded cartridge? Should I just trash them (I'd prefer not doing this as they are competition prepped)?
 
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Other than pulling the bullet and dumping the powder, then FL resizing, I don't know how you could do it. But pulling bullets is no big deal if you have an inertia puller. I just pulled 350 9mm bullets, it didn't take that long. Took me nearly 2 hours to do.
 
Pull the bullets and resize the cases. If you remove the decapping pin you won't have to worry about the primer. Use a case lube that can be applied by hand so you don't contaminate the primers.

Don't use the forward assist for anything except making sure the bolt is fully locked in position if you ease the charging handle forward. The type of use you are talking about will usually make a bad situation worse.
 
I'm pretty new to loading for ARs, but a long-time Sierra rep that shoots these guns competitively mentioned a case gauge as being a necessity for handloaders.

The mechanics of the system, including the forward assist and extraction process, lack the horsepower to deal with cases that haven't been adequately sized.
 
The Forster neck sizing and bushing bump die will push the shoulder back and touch nothing else with the bushing removed.

A body die will bump the shoulder "but" it will also size the body of the case.

Some case forming and trim dies can be set up to just bump the shoulder. I use one for the .303 British when I want to bump the shoulder back when the case gets too long when neck sizing.

The cheapest thing to do is break out the impact hammer, a body die is over $30.00 and the bushing bump die is over $80.00

NOTE. I use the Hornady cartridge case headspace gauge for setting up my dies. And as a final check I use a J P ENTERPRISES .223 case gauge for a "plop test". The JP gauge is cut from a reamer and also checks case diameter.

Below a fired case in my Hornady gauge.

headspacegauge005_zps20685e73.jpg


Below the same case after full length resizing and .003 shoulder bump.

headspacegauge004_zps4465b7bc.jpg


And the last check is with the JP Enterprize case gauge.

You might think this is over kill but I'm loading for three different AR15 rifles and I buy once fired Lake city cases. And both checks ensure the ammo will chamber, meaning checking both length and diameter.
 
I have only one rifle in .223, a bolt action Savage 112V. After the first firing using a FL-sized case, I use a neck sizing die.
 
Just a word about the forward assist on AR-15/M-16 rifles: if you have to whack it to get the bolt to close on a round, you may not get the round back out with the charging handle. You may have to go back to the mallet, or if the case sticks after firing, pound it out with a rod down the muzzle. I would only use the forward assist if somebody was shooting at me!

Don't ask me how I know.

Advise from a retired Marine gunnery sergeant who taught marksmanship for years. The Viet Cong used to shoot at him.
 
I'm sure many will tell me why this cannot be done, but one can just as easily resize an entirely loaded round as they can an empty case.
In fact, before the advent of taper crimp dies, many would use the sizing die to "resize" the case neck and press it firmly into the sides of the bullet...on handgun rounds such as the .45ACP and 9mm.

In fact, factories do run loaded rounds through "final dimensioning" dies to ensure the finished rounds will cycle!

Semi-auto rifles have very low chambering force and are intolerant of oversized rounds.

When I first starting forming and "building" .300 AAC ammo, I immediately discovered a major problem with reliable chambering and extraction of unfired rounds. The bolt would refuse to close and once closed a mallet or "mortar" was needed to yank the round back out! This was with the cases formed and sized "die-to-case holder." While WAITING for a case gauge to slowly make it's way to my door, I decided enough was enough and starting shaving my sizing die, .0005" at a time. Then I'd grab a LOADED round that refused to chamber and run it through the sizer to set the shoulder back, and try to chamber again. I repeated this process until I reached a point where the bolt would close on the loaded rounds and extract without having to mallet tap the breech open. At this point - for whatever reason, I knew my rounds were correct for the chamber. I subsequently FIRED all those loaded rounds from that same rifle!
Here's the "twist." When my Lyman chamber gauge arrived, the first thing I did was drop in some factory NEW ammo only to discover it dropped in BELOW the "undersized" ledge! WHAT? And yes, this ammo had already been cycled through with 100% reliability. So then I grabbed my home-built rounds made from converted 5.56 brass and multiply sized as "loaded rounds" through my modified sizer die...they TOO dropped in just below the undersized ledge!
I went back and tested all the home-built ammo that I had not "yet" ran through the modified sizer die and as expected it dropped in level with the "acceptable" ledge which means is SHOULD work but it is actually too long at the shoulder datum to fit!

I currently own 5 different .300 barrels and ALL seem to have "short chambers"....almost as if the manufacturing spec for the round is something different than the published spec.

So with all that said, my POINT is that I have ran hundreds of rounds through the sizer to SET the SHOULDER back and not one ever blew up, nor should anyone EXPECT it to do so! Unless the primer is impacted by something during the process, the action of "squeezing" the powdered and loaded case is not dangerous at all.

The ONLY issue one might encounter with running loaded rounds through a sizer die is that in squeezing the case neck, the bullet is also being squeezed and could become loosened in the neck. I have encountered this effect when trying to get proper neck tension on the 5.7x28, .400 Corbon, and .357 Sig, and even bullets with a cannelure will loosen. Of course all these cartridges have ultra short necks with minimal bullet support! (This is WHY I stopped futzing around with bottleneck pistol rounds a few years back). So bottleneck cases in general are not good candidates for "whole cartridge sizing" but hey, if it were that or start pulling bullets, I'd try THAT first!

The .300 AAC has NOT proven to have a problem with bullets becoming loose, which is why I can state with confidence one can use whole-cartridge sizing to correct a shoulder problem.

Your issue with your 300 Blackout rounds isn't "short chambers" it's because the Wilson case gage is too long. BTW, been there done that.

However, I have to warn anyone reading Bonkers post to note that he is referring to the 300 Blackout, a caliber which features shoulders so slight that you can bump the shoulder back by simply releading the bolt on an AR and chambering a long cartridge. This is NOT the case with the 5.56. If you attempt to chamber a long shouldered cartridge in an AR15 in the 223/5.56 calibers you will end up with a jammed bolt and have to "Mortor" the bolt carrier free. BTW, have also been there done this.

IMO the OP has no choice except to pull the bullet and re-size his cases. Because attempting to force an assembled cartridge into a full length sizing die will at best reduce the diameter of the bullet engaged in the neck of the case and at worse result in an assembled and primed cartridge jammed in the sizing die. Personally if I were in his place I would get out my RCBS collet type bullet puller and use that to break down the rounds. Because the old Whack a Mole method has always resulted in a mess of spilled powder all over my work area.
 
I use both a Hornady as well as a Sinclair case gauge set. Don't know how I loaded for so many years without them. Makes setting up a sizing die for a specific chamber...very easy.
 
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Thanks all. I did use a Dillon .223 case gage when I set it up, but I apparently didn't tighten down the sizing die in the RL550B well enough. I just ordered an RCBS bullet puller, which costs more than the rounds are worth, but I bet I'll need it again. This was my first attempt at using the Dillon press for the 5.56. I had used an RCBS Rock Chucker, which is slower, but I never had a die loosen up with it. Live and learn, even at 71.
 
Thanks all. I did use a Dillon .223 case gage when I set it up, but I apparently didn't tighten down the sizing die in the RL550B well enough. I just ordered an RCBS bullet puller, which costs more than the rounds are worth, but I bet I'll need it again. This was my first attempt at using the Dillon press for the 5.56. I had used an RCBS Rock Chucker, which is slower, but I never had a die loosen up with it. Live and learn, even at 71.

Joe

I'm still using my Rockchucker press I bought in 1973 after I got out of the military.

I'm retired and have all the time in the world to reload and have never wanted a progressive press.

I highly recomend getting the Hornady cartridge case headspace gauge. The advantage with the Hornady gauge is you only need to buy this gauge for all your cases you reload. And its easy to measure your fired cases for the proper amount of shoulder bump.

I now use my Wilson gauges for paper weights and pen holders. (warped gauge humor) :D

penholder_zps4213e7d3.jpg


Below a resized case with a extractor ding in the rim will not go all the way into the gauge. This is why it helps to have a small fine file on your reload bench. "BUT" you can still get a accurate measurement with the Hornady gauge.


gauge003_zps317ba01a.jpg


Bottom line, Wilson type gauges are setup to SAAMI .223 standards and AR15 chambers can be longer. Meaning it helps to know the case headspace length "before" and after sizing.
 
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Your issue with your 300 Blackout rounds isn't "short chambers" it's because the Wilson case gage is too long. BTW, been there done that.

However, I have to warn anyone reading Bonkers post to note that he is referring to the 300 Blackout, a caliber which features shoulders so slight that you can bump the shoulder back by simply releading the bolt on an AR and chambering a long cartridge. This is NOT the case with the 5.56. If you attempt to chamber a long shouldered cartridge in an AR15 in the 223/5.56 calibers you will end up with a jammed bolt and have to "Mortor" the bolt carrier free. BTW, have also been there done this.

IMO the OP has no choice except to pull the bullet and re-size his cases. Because attempting to force an assembled cartridge into a full length sizing die will at best reduce the diameter of the bullet engaged in the neck of the case and at worse result in an assembled and primed cartridge jammed in the sizing die. Personally if I were in his place I would get out my RCBS collet type bullet puller and use that to break down the rounds. Because the old Whack a Mole method has always resulted in a mess of spilled powder all over my work area.

Absolutely. There is no other alternative which makes any sense in this case. What happened with the .300 Blackout has absolutely no applicability. If anyone tries to resize a loaded cartridge in a resizing die, all that will happen is that the case neck will probably get jammed and stuck in the die, then you have a real problem
 
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