5-screw 32 Magnum?

[xsexcess]

I've decided to build vs buy a K frame 32 (price). Is it sacrilege to use a 5 screw Target Masterpiece frame as I build a low buck (compared to 'real' ones) Model 16? I found a 16-4 barrel some time back and have been looking for the right frame. I'm not in love with the full lug and fat barrel, but trimming it down to 'correct' (to me) 16 contours would be a challenge. Seems most of the model 14 frames have the forward corners of the frame nicked to fair into the smaller diameter taper barrel, and the heavy barrel model 19s are quite a bit more money than the 14s. Oddly, I'm seeing several snubby model 14s that do not have the fairing nick, top strap of the frame stays the full dimension all the way to the front. If I find the price of a 14-3 and 5 screw Target Masterpiece are about the same, I'm leaning toward 5 screw. Is this going to create one of those 'business in front, party in back' Mullet haircut anomalies?

 

[drgbike]

The magnum frames will match the barrel. The 5 screws had narrower ribs so there is a mismatch. Just depends on what you can like. I have taper and ball milled a few barrels to blend, looks really nice to me. Of course then you nee a reblue.

 

[xsexcess]

gbike; I do have a Bridgeport. If I have to do milling to correct the contour, I may go rogue and turn it into a 32 H&R version of a 581...throw it on one of those 10-3 frames J&G was selling a while back.

 

[series guy]

Along with the top of the frame being different for the barrel profiles the front of the frame is also different. The models without a shrouded ejector rod have a higher undercut than frames with ejector rod shrouds. Some are more pronounced than others. I used a Model 15 for one of my builds and luckily the mismatch is very slight.

 

[xsexcess]

Series guy; I pulled out several pieces and now see what you mean. The non-lugged barrels have frame contouring that is pretty much round. The lugged ones below the barrel have a profile like the lobe on a camshaft almost. Guess I'll start shopping for a model 19 as the foundation. I measured the dimension of the reduced diameter (l, r sides) portion of the frame where it meets the barrel on several styles of K frame and they all seem the same on my examples. But you're right, the area below the barrel is different.

 

[Green Frog]

If you have a 16-4 barrel that you can’t or won’t alter to the earlier contour, you have to use a magnum frame to get a reasonable match, period, end of sentence.
When I built Project 616 using a rebored 617 barrel, I had to use a Model 66 barrel to look anything like right. Go ahead and bite the bullet, find a proper vintage K-magnum barrel, and get on with it. You won’t be sorry.
Otherwi$e, get out the mill and start cutting on the under lug. The choice is your$.
Froggie

 

[drgbike]

If you like the look of the top side plate, you have a mill. Its a little tricky but but not hard. the front is a simple drill, recess and tap. Just use a very thin head for the top one, doesn't have to hold the plate just look like it.

 

[xsexcess]

Dragbike. Understand and agree on the 19 as the base platform. Just for ease I'll build one up with the boat anchor underlug barrel as is. Reamer is on the way for the K22 cylinder. I also have a 617 barrel, stnls 22mag cylinder and have been fretting about what to do with that. No-one seems to re-bore barrels anymore (pistol bbls). And, I have a 48 Barrel 22 mag with the underlug (purportedly .224 bore). Was wondering if anyone on the forum has built a 224-32FA K frame? Freedom Arms developed it, and sells dies for it. It's a 327 Federal necked down to 224. Kinda what the Jet wanted to be I suspect.

All that said, your 2nd comment, I don't understand what you're suggesting I might do....are you talking about drilling out the bore of a shrouded bbl and installing a 32 liner? Where do you get a 32 liner, make one from a 303 barrel? Redman sells them but they're a few thousands small to thread for a K frame barrel shank aren't they?

 

[Green Frog]

OP, read the thread I’ve linked to then read it a second time, because you will miss stuff the first time. Don’t spend a lot of time reinventing the wheel.
Froggie

Project 616

 

[Green Frog]

Alan Segrist will rebore your 22 pistol barrel to 32 for you.

I wouldn’t hesitate to make a Model 19 into a 327, but if it’s a Model 14 frame, I think I’d limit myself to a 32H&R at the max.

Froggie

 

[Jebus35745]

I had a model 15 converted to .327 by Andy Horvath, he cut the 16-4 barrel from 4” to 3”. Also had my 4” 16-4 reamed to .327 by Andy.

Live too close to him. Have a hankering for a Martini 310 cadet made into a .32 mag. Larry

 

[StrawHat]

…Andy Horvath, …Live too close to him…Larry

You wonder why I moved to Ashtabula County?

Kevin

 

[Green Frog]

Over on the lead casting forum where they can’t spell, somebody else is asking virtually the same question about virtually the same project. I suggested he come here and ask around. Wonder where all of these Model 16-4 barrels are coming from??? A semi-custom K327 (Model 16-5??) is looking more viable every day.

Froggie

 

[cgt4570]

Here's the recipe I used when Hamilton Bowen built my custom K327 Fed mag about 10 years ago:
Pre-Model 15 5-screw frame (came to me with a cut down barrel).
K22 cylinder
8-3/8" NOS Model 16-4 barrel
Vintage Buehler scope mounts
Vintage Leupold scope.
It's a (loud) tack driver with .327, but will handle .32 S&W, .32 S&WL, .32 H&R Mag, and supposedly even .32ACP (but I've never had a reason to try that).

 

[Green Frog]

Unfortunately, Hamilton Bowen has stopped working on S&Ws, limiting himself to Rugers, if I understand the story right. Of the “known” ‘smiths, Andy Horvath is the only one still around that I’ve worked with, but there are still a lot of them if you know where to look. You might troll around here for suggestions.

We talk about using Mod 17/K22 cylinders. Somewhere around 1990 S&W changed the extractor arrangement. Andy told me it was easier for him to work on the earlier style than the later ones… but I don’t know why.
If anyone needs any further explanation, feel free to PM me.

Froggie

 

[xsexcess]

I bought one of the latest revision 617 cylinders by mistake and then had to buy an earlier one because the thickness of the extractor star is significantly thinner in the new design. It's easy to tell, the 'star' is no longer a star, it is now more of a rounded off square shape with wider edges than the original star design. If memory serves, the guide pins are also now absent.