500 S&W Issues.

[Wyomingnight]

Looking for some advice, I have the 500 S&W SS in the short 3" barrel, and shoot pretty heavy loads out of it ( over 500 grains)
I have been running issues with the double action, sometime is fires and sometime not using the double action.
Single action no problem- just seems like the hammer doesn't come all the way back and the cylinder doesn't turn all the way.

I can keep trying to fire it (double action) and sometime it work fine but generally once or twice in the 5 rounds.
No gun smith shop around here really and looked it up on you tube and this seems to be a common problem..

Any help I would appreciate. The gun is about 9 years old, and I keep it very well cleaned.

 

[jack the toad]

Welcome to the forum.
Have you checked for light or misaligned firing pin strikes on the primer?

 

[BLUEDOT37]

Are you saying no DA trigger pull cycles right, not even the first shot, or are you saying follow-up DA triggers are the problem.

.

 

[gwpercle]

after nine years of shooting ... those 500 S&W loads have taken a Toll on your revolver ... they beating it to death !
Call S&W about sending it in for an ... Overhaul / Tune-Up !
Gary

 

[cmj8591]

Generally the 500 is loaded with large rifle primers which require a pretty stout hit. Make sure that the strain screw is tight. You could also try replacing the main spring. It might be a little tired. I can't say I've had a problem like yours but then I don't think I've ever fired mine DA. You're a better man than I am.

 

[DT75]

I have been running issues with the double action, sometime is fires and sometime not using the double action.
Single action no problem- just seems like the hammer doesn't come all the way back and the cylinder doesn't turn all the way.

Are you saying that the hammer falls before the cylinder locks up in DA?
If or when that happens, does the firing pin strike centered in the primer or does it even hit the primer at all?

Could sound like your 500 might have a timing issue. If so, that should most certainly be corrected before shooting it anymore. Especially with such a powerful cartridge as 500 Magnum.

 

[Wyomingnight]

Generally the 500 is loaded with large rifle primers which require a pretty stout hit. Make sure that the strain screw is tight. You could also try replacing the main spring. It might be a little tired. I can't say I've had a problem like yours but then I don't think I've ever fired mine DA. You're a better man than I am.

I have some 750 bear load also

 

[Wyomingnight]

Are you saying that the hammer falls before the cylinder locks up in DA?
If or when that happens, does the firing pin strike centered in the primer or does it even hit the primer at all?

Could sound like your 500 might have a timing issue. If so, that should most certainly be corrected before shooting it anymore. Especially with such a powerful cartridge as 500 Magnum.

Not actually, the hammer only goes back like 1/4 of the way and releases for not a full cock-and the cylinder won't fully rotate.

I have heard that there is a pin in the double action mechanism behind the grip area that doesn't allow the double action to fully engage sometimes ??

 

[Wyomingnight]

Generally the 500 is loaded with large rifle primers which require a pretty stout hit. Make sure that the strain screw is tight. You could also try replacing the main spring. It might be a little tired. I can't say I've had a problem like yours but then I don't think I've ever fired mine DA. You're a better man than I am.

It is tight for sure

 

[Wyomingnight]

Are you saying no DA trigger pull cycles right, not even the first shot, or are you saying follow-up DA triggers are the problem.

.

It's the follow up shots for sure ! Generally it's like it has a mind of it's own when it want to fire- If I keep pulling the DA sometime it hit's and sometimes it take 2-3 pulls before it want to fire- If I do single action- it fires 100% of the time

 

[Wyomingnight]

after nine years of shooting ... those 500 S&W loads have taken a Toll on your revolver ... they beating it to death !
Call S&W about sending it in for an ... Overhaul / Tune-Up !
Gary

It's not like it's been shot constantly- the gun has had probably 75 rounds through it, and 85% of the time they are only 300 grain.

 

[DT75]

Not actually, the hammer only goes back like 1/4 of the way-and the cylinder won't fully rotate.
I have heard that there is a pin in the double action behind the grip area that doesn't allow the double action to fully engage sometimes

There is no pin in the grip area that would affect DA and not SA in that way.

Could maybe be that the DA sear is gummed up by old oil, so that it don't reset properly and slips off the trigger to early, but then the action would probably lock up and the trigger can't be pulled all the way.
The hand (which controls cylinder rotation) is directly connected to, and controlled by the trigger.

Taking the sideplate off is not too difficult and finding a youtube video for guidance should be easy.
Just make sure to use proper fitting hollow grind screwdrivers as not to mar the screw slots.

If you're not comfortable with taking the sideplate off, it could be worth a shot to flush out the action with brake cleaner while cycling in DA, dry it out with compressed air and then lubricate again.
Remove the grip first.

 

[Wyomingnight]

That is what I was leaning to (the sear)-I couldn't not remember the name..

I have taken the grips off prior, and I can watch it (the sear) not function properly-

Is this something I can do with cleaning, with like gun solvent? Or is it better with brake clean with it being a pressurized can?
Lube to go back together with that you recommend?

I watch a video on replacing the sear- but its a little imitating and looking at an exploded view of the guns' internals- i don't exactly know the correct part to get -or even if I need to go that far..

So I have left it alone for awhile- but with joining the forum, provided me the kick in the butt to get this cannon back to 100%.

 

[DT75]

The DA sear is the darker piece on the front side of the hammer, just above the trigger sear.
The trigger sear catch underneath and lift the hammer until finally slipping off, allowing the hammer to drop.
The DA sear is mounted in the hammer with a hinge pin and a spring. The spring is there to push the DA sear forward in the correct position for the trigger sear to catch it, and then to move back against the hammer after hammer fall, to allow the trigger to return forward, resetting the action for the next trigger pull.

The SA sear is under the trigger sear, in order for it to pull the trigger back when cocking the hammer for SA.

As I said above, the DA sear could be gummed up and not moving freely. If so, a pressurized can of brake cleaner would be my best bet to try to dissolve the gumming without removing the sideplate.

Edit :
For lubrication I use Ballistol, but most light oils will do.
I am a proponent against WD-40, as it is typically known for gumming up sparsely used firearms.
WD-40 is not a lubricant.

 

[Wyomingnight]

I will take the grips off today and see if I can determine which one it is ( DA or Trigger)

I appreciate the help and will let you know which one it is.
Should I just go ahead then and spray brake cleaner in there anyway and see if that helps, and should I go back with some type of lubricant afterwards?

 

[DT75]

The trigger is most likely fine, as SA is working as normal. If you look at the picture in my post (click on it for larger image), you can see that the sear part of the trigger is nested between the hammers SA and DA sears.
The SA sear below and DA sear above.

Spray brake cleaner liberally from below, hold the hammer back and spray from above, and alternate.
Aim at the DA sear.
Working the action by pulling the trigger while it's soaking wet will help loosening up any gumming.
You could hold a thumb on the hammer while cycling the action, to let the hammer down gently. The point here is to move the DA sear to rinse it.

If this helps, then lubricate after the brake cleaner has dried off.
If not, the sideplate will have to come off.

 

[Wyomingnight]

I pulled the side plate off and yes it's pretty grimy in there.
My picture is a bit different than yours as the long pivot arm ( whatever it does) rides in a different place than your picture, if that's any concern.
Ill spray it pretty good, along with the inside of the side plate- it's not clean either
What should I use for a good Lube if this cleaning brake fluid trick works.