5906 crack in frame

BB4XL

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Hi. I have a 5906. I bought it new in 89. I don’t shoot it that much anymore, infract it’s the bedroom gun now. So I was oiling it up and I have not taken the grips off in a long time. I found a crack in the frame. It is where the slide stop notch is in the frame down to the cut out in the frame where the grips fit. About a ½ inch long straight. It has not separated. I searched on here and other forums and found no similar cracks. I called S&W and they said that it “might be covered under warranty” If not they would send me a quote for the work. I sent this gun about 4 years ago for a broken extractor. They charged me $130.00.
I don’t know how much they will want to fix it, or will they. Labor rate was 90.00 per hour 4 years ago. The only Gunsmith that I know in my area that did welding retired. I am in Northeast Ohio near Cleveland.
I see 5906 go from 400 ish and up. I have 7 factory mags. I never shot much +p ammo maybe a box or 2. Mostly 115 and 124 standard pressure. I would like to get it fixed if it’s worth it. Just thought I would post this here and get some feedback. Thanks.
 
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Wow, a cracked frame on a 5906? There goes our "built like a tank" theory. Could it possibly be just a scratch? Hopefully?

Added: I would be surprised if the factory could/would repair a cracked frame. Too much liability if it later fails.

Can you post a good close-up pic?

Todd
 
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The extractor is a wear item. I think you will find that the frame will be covered for the crack. I would send it back and let the factory repair it because the usual repair for that crack is to replace the whole frame. The gun is worthless with the crack so even if you have to shell out some money, you will at least have a functioning gun.
 
If it is a crack, the factory won’t fix it. They’ll probably keep it, though.

Personally, I’d just ignore it and keep shooting. Check it once in a while. Even if it is a crack and opens up the gun isn’t going to explode.
 
My gunsmith repaired a crack in the frame of an older 1911 by drilling a very small hole at the end of the crack.

This served to stop the crack from progressing any further.

Cost $25.00 as I recall. The repair continues to be effective, 30 years on.
 
Yes, the guns are built like tanks. Anyone familiar with the stainless framed guns will raise an eyebrow if one cracks even at that spot on the frame.

It's unlikely that S&W has any frames in stock for repairs. If they have any, they will be reserved for the few LE agencies that still authorize 3rd Gen guns.

The factory can't keep a gun that isn't repairable unless the customer agrees. They may warn the owner that the gun is unsafe to operate, but they can't keep it since it's not their property.

This shop is in MA. I've been there once, but never done any business with them. The advertise microarc welding and may be able to repair the crack. >> Gunsmithing Services Worth an email or a call.
 
At first I thought it was a scratch. Then I got out a 15x loupe and saw it is a crack. Some people say it can be Tig welded. I have Browning Hi power that was welded. Browning did the repair.



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Good Lord!
Did this gun happen to fall out of an aircraft at 1500 feet?
I have never seen a crack on a 5906 this bad ever!
I have untold # of rounds through mine and no cracks, splits or non-binary bulges.
 
Search cracked 659 frame. Had mine welded by Micro Precision Welding. Then I needed to dress it down with files and stones. Ok so far.
 

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Back in 1974 our department bought about 500 S&W 59's which the entire department carried. in 1986 while duing a yearly inspection of all 59's I found a crack running from the slide stop notch to the slide stop button hole, further checking the frame i found another crack at the left rear of the magazine well. I called in 10 59's that had been issued to patrol officers in 1974 stripped them and noticed several had vary obvious cracks. The Cal Air Natl Guard allowed me to bring stripped frames to their facility and use there Zyglo process equipment to locate cracks. every frame had either cracks at the previous location mentioned or a discolorzation like a streach mark indicating the frame was about to crack. We replaced all 59;'s with 645's.
 
Thank you everyone for your responses. When I first bought this gun I was rather new to shooting. I shot it allot. It was the third gun that I bought. My first gun is a model 13. I needed a gun for protection working all night at a gas station. For years I never really shot it. It would have been comical if I had gotten into a gun fight. Then when I got into shooting I found out I could not shoot .357 mags all the time. So I bought a .22, a model 41.

I did replace the recoil spring a few times; maybe I should have replaced it more often. Thank you maxfan. I sent him an email with the pics. I think I am going to send it to S&W and see what they have to say. The crack being under the grip it should not show that bad if welded. If it cannot be fixed I can always sell it for parts. I also have some factory mags. Also I am going to wait for a reply from Micro welding. Thanks again everyone.
 
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Sending it to S&W is a waist of time. They will have no help for you. They'll probably want to destroy the gun and give you a voucher for one of their current plastic equivalents. If you have to have it repaired, finding a welder to do the work is your only option. It might be cheaper to just buy another example. It's not as if it's a rare variant.
 
Trooper224 thanks for the advice. I am on the fence about sending it to S&W. I really don't want a M&P. Microweld said $50-80 to weld it plus shipping both ways. Before I would let S&W keep it I would sell all the parts. I want to keep it if possible.
 
S&W cannot keep your property without your consent. Send it in, let them give you an estimate. If they say they cannot fix it, sign whatever release they require and have them send it back.
 
If you send it to S&W maybe send only the frame and then you will at least have all those parts you could sell for some extra cash. I will have to take a few grips off this weekend and inspect some of my shooters.
Good luck and thanks for posting this story with the photos.
 
Can't fix that one by drilling. Drill the end of a crack to prevent it propagating or growing longer. Since this is cracked clean through on each end there's no point to drilling anything.

Have to grind a "V" channel that follows the crack inside and outside.

Then have to heat the frame up to 3-400° otherwise the frame will re-crack to the side of the weld.

Probably weld the inside first. Damnable tough to weld in there as a normal TIG torch wont fit. Need to use a micro TIG torch.

In addition you need a back purge box to protect the other side NOT being welded from turning into a giant burned ball of slag. The torch is flowing argon as a shield gas to protect the weld from oxygen until it cools. The back purge box would flow argon on the outside to keep that from burning while welding on the inside.

Need to get full thickness penetration of the weld without burning through. So, V notch the interior, heat it and weld. Then V notch the exterior down to the first weld, heat it up again then weld the exterior.

Just my thoughts on what it'd take to fix that. Not easy or quick by any means. A lot of precise work in a tiny space. Plus welding stainless steel is kind of a pain in the backside ;)

Cheers
Bill
 
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