Yes, but if you not the FTF is only 2 rounds out of 100 rounds on average. If it was more like a FTF every 10 rounds I would expect it to be more or less the action job. Best thing to do is shoot off another 500 rounds or so to see what happens.
617 action job results/question
- Thread starter tyger2
- Start date
Raspy
Member
tyger,
Too bad we don't know what the FTF rate was before the trigger job.
If the main spring was replaced it might be the problem. Wolff, for instance, says very clearly that they "strongly" recommend the type 1 springs which are factory strength. Type 2 are for reduced power and may compromise reliability.
It might be best to just replace the trigger return spring.
I have not noticed a 1 in 50 failure ratio with any of my 22LR and I buy all of it at Wal Mart.
Too bad we don't know what the FTF rate was before the trigger job.
If the main spring was replaced it might be the problem. Wolff, for instance, says very clearly that they "strongly" recommend the type 1 springs which are factory strength. Type 2 are for reduced power and may compromise reliability.
It might be best to just replace the trigger return spring.
I have not noticed a 1 in 50 failure ratio with any of my 22LR and I buy all of it at Wal Mart.
Stainz
Member
Most folks accompany smoothing the lockwork with spring changes. Wolff springs are great - but even the full-power hammer unit will yield ftf's with modern strain screws, filed/ground or not. The turned end of the newer strain screws is smaller and will intrude into the hollow 'Power Rib', lessening the pre-load. A replacement full length strain screw may bridge said hollow - and yield no ftf's. The trigger return spring change only slows the trigger return - and is an acceptable improvement for everyone but JM - who can appreciate the speed!
The strain screw should be tightened all the way, lest it work loose. It secures the spring as well as placing the pre-load on it. The exception is the the Allen headed set-screw replacement - like I employed on my new 617. It is set by duplicating the proper separation of the leaf from the front grip frame's inside wall - and test firing. If no ftf's, unscrew the screw half a turn - and try again. Repeat until you get ftf's - then screw it in a half turn and put a toothpick drop of blue Loctite on the threads. Big importance on this - let the Loctite set for 24 hr! My 617 is known at the range for it's trigger - great improvement.
Stainz
The strain screw should be tightened all the way, lest it work loose. It secures the spring as well as placing the pre-load on it. The exception is the the Allen headed set-screw replacement - like I employed on my new 617. It is set by duplicating the proper separation of the leaf from the front grip frame's inside wall - and test firing. If no ftf's, unscrew the screw half a turn - and try again. Repeat until you get ftf's - then screw it in a half turn and put a toothpick drop of blue Loctite on the threads. Big importance on this - let the Loctite set for 24 hr! My 617 is known at the range for it's trigger - great improvement.
Stainz
Dale53
Member
Stainz has an excellent suggestion. In addition, I would definitely replace the firing pin with either Cylinder & Slide's or Apex Tactical's "long pin".
The combination of a "tuned" strain screw and the "longer" firing pin should solve the problems.
Rimfires can be a pain in the tuckus, sometimes.
Dale53
The combination of a "tuned" strain screw and the "longer" firing pin should solve the problems.
Rimfires can be a pain in the tuckus, sometimes.
Dale53
S&WIowegan
US Veteran
I vote for ammo as the cause. Two FTFs out of 100 rnds is VERY good.
I shoot my 617s regularly in steel and bowling pins competition. I use only Federal Champion bulk pack 36 gr JHPs since they have proven to be the most reliable. They still have an FTF once in a while. Usually that dud will go bang with a second hit in a different spot.
My 617s all have action jobs by Mike Carmoney who has a website under the logo "Carmonize". He is a competitive shooter and states clearly that you can't lighten a 617 very much, but you can sure smooth the action significantly. Try him out.
I shoot my 617s regularly in steel and bowling pins competition. I use only Federal Champion bulk pack 36 gr JHPs since they have proven to be the most reliable. They still have an FTF once in a while. Usually that dud will go bang with a second hit in a different spot.
My 617s all have action jobs by Mike Carmoney who has a website under the logo "Carmonize". He is a competitive shooter and states clearly that you can't lighten a 617 very much, but you can sure smooth the action significantly. Try him out.
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