617 After Reaming Cylinder

While I doubt it would hurt I also doubt it would help. If it was a tight throat on that chamber it might as the chamber reamer would take the throat to .222 I would suspect something else. A stop notch that was off a bit maybe or a just slightly off chamber. If you reamed a slightly of chamber it would remain in exactly the same spot just be perfectly round and a very tiny bit bigger if at all undersized.
You know which chamber it is, so line that one up with barrel and see it the stop notch that is locked up has more slack than the rest. If you have a cleaning rod, piece of brass or the like that just fits down the bore to function as a range rod you can see if it hangs up on the edge of the chamber, but as the lands are smaller than the chamber it is not a perfect check for alignment. Be 100% POSITIVE CYLINDER IS EMPTY then cock the gun and from the side shine real bright light at the B/C gap and look down the bore and look at the shadows, look down the bore with the light. I don't know how much you can see with a 22. but with bigger bores you can see if a chamber is off very much. More gap gives more light. I bought a small camera I can hook to my phone and slide down a barrel, but not a 22 barrel as the lens piece is 6mm.

Another thought I have had is to turn a piece of brass to just fit the chamber with a small hole dead center in it. In the case of a 22 a 1/ 8" hole would work. You could even use a fired piece of brass in a 22 to "shim" out the chamber to see if your range rod drug on the inside of case. With the dummy piece I was speaking of you could make up and run a range rod that just fit the lands down the bore and it it has a short 1/8" tip on it that rip would not enter the 1/8" hole in center your test blank if chamber was misaligned. I have made brass test that just fit 45 , 44, 357 and 32 barrels, but have never made on for a 22. Mine have a hole in one end threaded at 1/4 20. If I screw in piece of a 1/4 20 bolt that I cut the head off and turned to a point it tells me if the barrel is dead straight in line with the firing pin hole on a center fire.

I spend entirely to much time messing with revolvers
 
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Thanks for the info and suggestions steelslaver. I might try some of them and at least gives me an idea where to start.
Probably not much I can do to correct it, and I might be over critical.
Thanks again. 👍
 
Question. Where is the odd strike in comparison to the rest? It would be interesting to figure out. You would think that a high or low strike would mean the chamber was slightly off high or low and a left or right strike the chamber of a bit laterally. The forcing cone is supposed to help align the chamber to the bore as bullet moves from throat to barrel.

It is actually pretty amazing how accurate revolvers are with 6 separate chambers each held in place by a small lock in a small slot. Each needing a bit of tolerance to function. The lock needs to have enough clearance to move quickly up and down with little pressure from the trigger and the lock spring, the notch in cylinder has to have a bit of clearance to have the tip of lock to go in it everytime. The axis of the cylinder must have just enough clearance to be turned easily, on the yoke tube, by the tip of the hand engaging a small tooth. The case heads all need a little bit of head space to smoothly slide across the recoil shield to get in position. All of these adding as little pressure as possible as the trigger cocks the hammer, which swings in an arc. The bullet jumping from the cylinder throat into the forcing cone to finally engage the rifling.

The fact that most of mine can shoot about 1" groups at 20 yards with regular ammo amazes me.

You look at rifles, with a single chamber 100% fixed to the bore with no gap to transition. The round can fit much tighter being cammed in place by a rotating bolt that locks up with almost zero head space, faster lock time and a straight line firing pin powered by a spring directly on that firing pin, to say nothing about a way longer barrel.
 
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I tell you what amazes me is that they were able to built them with the equipment they had in the 1860s. I have a lot more going for me equipment wise than they did and I would be hard pressed to make a decent top break or hand ejector. They made most of their own cutters, screws, rifling jigs, drill bits reamers etc. Building the first triple lock in 1908 was a true feat of engineering and machining.
 
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That's all it ever took. It is far easier to destroy than to build. Think of all the thousands of people, the acres of buildings with machinery, the hundreds of years of technology and the money it takes to build a car. Then realize that one idiot with a baseball bat can destroy that car in 10 minutes.
 
Thank you for this post. I too have loading and clearing issues with my 617. I just ordered the Brownells cylinder reamer. My inexpensive Ruger Wrangler also needs some help.
 
That's all it ever took. It is far easier to destroy than to build. Think of all the thousands of people, the acres of buildings with machinery, the hundreds of years of technology and the money it takes to build a car. Then realize that one idiot with a baseball bat can destroy that car in 10 minutes.
Yeah or even less when DUI-ing said car into a tree...
 
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Thank you for this post. I too have loading and clearing issues with my 617. I just ordered the Brownells cylinder reamer. My inexpensive Ruger Wrangler also needs some help.
Didja miss reading post #9 above? You could have used the forum "karma" reamer for free...
 
I purchased the same Manson 22LR finisher reamer as shown above. Today I tried to ream my 617 10 shot cylinder and it wouldn't even start to cut. It would go in about 3/4" and stop. There is no way the pilot end would allow the reamer to proceed. I tried to fit the pilot into the discharge end of the cylinder and it would not enter. What is going on here?
 
Are you using plenty of cutting oil? I have found that you need to pull the reamer out every few turns to get the chips out otherwise it won't cut any further.

I may be wrong but I give it a 1/4 reverse to pull it out. Someone will jump in and say if that's wrong. I've rearmed a few cylinders without any problems.
 
I am using plenty of cutting fluid. It seems the lower part of the cylinder is so undersized that the reamer pilot can't proceed.
 
Did this a few years ago on what I called my ".21 cal. M63", using a Brownell's .22 finish reamer.

Liked the gun, but the chambers were so incredibly snug that I rarely took the trouble of taking it to the range.
And, regardless of ammo used, after 2-3 cylinders-full of ammo fired, it became almost impossible to press rounds fully into the chambers. Extraction/ejection almost as bad.

Before reaming, I did all the usual 'extreme cleaning' methods, i.e., chucking a .22 cleaning rod and bronze brush into a drill, using solvents, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, etc. and scrubbing the chambers pristine clean. Even polished using JB bore paste. Nope - not much help.

After careful use of the finish reamer, all aggravation has been eliminated. Rounds insert easily, eject easily. Accuracy is still far better than I.

Not sure why S&W made the decision to establish these dimensions - and I've heard M63's were among the worst.
 
Odd, my finishing reamer has no pilot. Just the reamer. You may have the wrong one. The one in the picture above has no pilot either.
 
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All my .22 reamers have a pilot. For a cylinder reamer it should not be over .224 diameter. Maybe they forgot to grind the pilot to size on that one.

For a rifled barrel, the pilot should be .212 to .215.
 
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Yes mine has the pilot as well, I was thinking of something else.

Sorry.
 
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