686-3 scratches on the cylinder face
- Thread starter TomL55421
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How deep are the scratches and what is the barrel to cylinder gap now?
I generally wouldn't bother to remove scratches from the face of the cylinder but for superficial scratches with no measurable depth a fine sand paper (in the range of 240-400 grit) should get the job done with no effect on barrel to cylinder gap.
I generally wouldn't bother to remove scratches from the face of the cylinder but for superficial scratches with no measurable depth a fine sand paper (in the range of 240-400 grit) should get the job done with no effect on barrel to cylinder gap.
Check the current gap. It should be between. 004" and .008". I heard S & W says .010", but that's a stretch.
Welcome to the forum. Any pictures?
NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
Welcome to the S&W Forums.
How about some pictures so we can see what you are seeing? Did you buy this revolver when it was new or did you buy it as a used firearm?
As for barrel-cylinder gap, current S&W acceptable range is 0.003" to 0.010".
400 grit means 400 in a line is an inch. 400/1=.0025. So removing a 400 grit deep scratch will open your gap that much. Not a good plan, even if your paper only takes off 1/2 a grit that is .00125
My question is how did scratches get there in the first place?
My question is how did scratches get there in the first place?
OLDSTER
Member
Hi from North Dakota : close up photos would help. 
I have owned the revolver since new in 1991. I am the knucklehead who scratched the cylinder. The blast stains on the face of the cylinder were being particularly stubborn and in a moment of madness, I grabbed a brush brush. All of the feeler gauges I have are automotive and are too large to measure my cylinder gap. Here are some closeup pictures.
Unless the scratches affect performance or make it hard to clean the front of the cylinder, I'd leave sleeping dogs lie.
Jason Demond
Member
Any method to remove the scratches would involve removing steel from the front of the cylinder. If they are not deep, and your gun is on the low end of the cylinder gap spec. You could polish them out with some fine grit sand paper. Keeping in mind that doing so would be widening the cylinder gap.
My most shot gun is a 686. It has and untold number of rounds fired through it since I bought it new back in the late 90s. My gun is still within specs, and still shoots as well as it did new. That said, I was bothered enough by the notch peening that I bought a brand new cylinder.
If the scratches bother you enough, a new cylinder is always in option. It would require some fitting though.
My most shot gun is a 686. It has and untold number of rounds fired through it since I bought it new back in the late 90s. My gun is still within specs, and still shoots as well as it did new. That said, I was bothered enough by the notch peening that I bought a brand new cylinder.
If the scratches bother you enough, a new cylinder is always in option. It would require some fitting though.
As long as no material was raised above the surface I would leave them alone. If there is raised material making a bur, I would tap it back with a small flat faced hammer and I do mean tap. Other than appearance it is not doing anything. I don't understand why everyone gets obsessed with the powder STAINS on the face of a cylinder myself. They are completely harmless and do no effect the metal or function. Even fine metal polish is removing metal, in effect rubbing down the face of your cylinder. Either don't shoot it of wipe the actual residue off and forget the stain of park the gun as a display. Those stains are not much different than the dreaded turn line. I have spend time using a lead away cloth on my lone nickle gun and on a couple stainless ones. It is back with the next cylinder full.
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Shooters worry too much about the carbon rings. They are best left alone to be as they are. Just a once over to knock off any buildup but otherwise I generally leave them. Once a year or so I'll take a lead-away cloth to them.
I've read many guys say they use 600 grit, 000 steel wool, Scotchbrite. Applying abrasives to any part of a revolver makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up.
I have always contended that excessive or improper cleaning has done more harm to firearms than anything else.
I've read many guys say they use 600 grit, 000 steel wool, Scotchbrite. Applying abrasives to any part of a revolver makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up.
I have always contended that excessive or improper cleaning has done more harm to firearms than anything else.
After seeing the pic, those scratches were not made with a brass brush… kinda looks like a dental pick of sorts made those scratches.
Invictus357
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I always used to make sure the front of the cylinder was clean after shooting.
I used Birchwood Casey Lead Remover for the job (completely amazing).
As I get older I care less about it for some reason.
Nowadays I just spray down the whole gun and let Ballistol work it's magic.
Does a great job.
I used Birchwood Casey Lead Remover for the job (completely amazing).
As I get older I care less about it for some reason.
Nowadays I just spray down the whole gun and let Ballistol work it's magic.
Does a great job.
