686-6+ Flame-cutting

[gfors]

I am the original owner, and have put about 800 rounds of store-bought .357 158 grain rounds down the pipe of my 6" 686-6+. The top-strap is showing noticeable flame-cutting, at the B/C gap. My gunsmith checked the gap, and says it's within spec, but could certainly be smaller. How many more rounds can I shoot before I should worry about loss of structural integrity? When should I send it back to the mothership? How deep of a cut is safe?

http://smith-wessonforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=318671&d=1514730770

 

[H Richard]

What I would do is avoid shooting any rounds less than 158 gr. It's the hot 110 and 125 gr. loads that make that cut. Normally it goes just so far and that's it.

 

[colt_saa]

SAAMI specification ammunition will not erode a stainless steel Smith and Wesson top strap to a point where structural integrity will be compromised.

You can shoot as many rounds of whatever ammunition that you choose. Then hand the revolver down to your son or daughter to do the same

 

[gfors]

What I would do is avoid shooting any rounds less than 158 gr. It's the hot 110 and 125 gr. loads that make that cut. Normally it goes just so far and that's it.

I've shot 12 rounds of Federal 357B 125gr. along with 100 rounds of remanufactured 180gr. and a few hundred .38+p 158gr. Maybe the overall round count is closer to 1000, but very little 125gr. stuff.

 

[AZretired]

I've shot 12 rounds of Federal 357B 125gr. along with 100 rounds of remanufactured 180gr. and a few hundred .38+p 158gr. Maybe the overall round count is closer to 1000, but very little 125gr. stuff.

It will only cut so deep and then stop. It will never cut deep enough to be a concern on an L frame. That's why they designed it.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[Alk8944]

Clean the top strap! While there may be a small bit of flame cutting most of what you are seeing is metal and powder fouling on the surface. You may have to resort to scraping to remove this, it will be quite hard. 800 rounds of even full power .357 is hardly enough to even start to show actual flame cutting!

 

[Arik]

Flame cutting will only go so far and then stop. Structural integrity is not compromised

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[Pisgah]

Clean the top strap! While there may be a small bit of flame cutting most of what you are seeing is metal and powder fouling on the surface. You may have to resort to scraping to remove this, it will be quite hard. 800 rounds of even full power .357 is hardly enough to even start to show actual flame cutting!

This -- and even if there is some cutting (and to be honest, in examining thousands upon thousands of revolvers over decades I have never really seen it except in the infamous Ruger .357 Max -- build-up of fouling, yes, a slight mark, maybe) check it again in, say, 1,000,000 rounds. It'll never get any worse.

 

[H47]

Years and years ago, I was a firearms instructor in the old U.S. Customs Service. Back when we used the CS-1 (686) .357's. We offered the officers the option of using .38+p or .357. Over years, I noticed no flame cutting with the +p or with Federal 357s (I'm thinking they used flake powder.) When we went to Wincheser .357's, which used ball powder, that's when the flame cutting showed up. I remember a couple of cases in guns that had always used. 38s and showed no flame cutting, where the cut showed up after firing only one box of the Winchester .357's. Additionally these rounds would scatter unburned ball powder granules all over the floor of an indoor range. I'm convinced that the sandblast effect of the ball powder shooting through the gap either caused or accelerated the flame cutting.
I blame the ball powder...

 

[toad67]

Years and years ago, I was a firearms instructor in the old U.S. Customs Service. Back when we used the CS-1 (686) .357's. We offered the officers the option of using .38+p or .357. Over years, I noticed no flame cutting with the +p or with Federal 357s (I'm thinking they used flake powder.) When we went to Wincheser .357's, which used ball powder, that's when the flame cutting showed up. I remember a couple of cases in guns that had always used. 38s and showed no flame cutting, where the cut showed up after firing only one box of the Winchester .357's. Additionally these rounds would scatter unburned ball powder granules all over the floor of an indoor range. I'm convinced that the sandblast effect of the ball powder shooting through the gap either caused or accelerated the flame cutting.
I blame the ball powder...

Interesting observation.....

 

[gfors]

Thanks for all the replies! I know there is some fouling and dirt but there is some definite erosion, that wasn't there when it was new. What's the best way to scrape off the crud?
I have shot quite a bit of the Winchester White Box, and have noticed a few pellets of un-burned powder, when cleaning (which I do after every session)

 

[gfors]

Flame Cutting
Powder-caused flame-cutting seems to be a not uncommon phenomenon

 

[TravisPNW]

It will only cut so deep and then stop. It will never cut deep enough to be a concern on an L frame. That's why they designed it.

When doing my research I settled on the 3" 686+ due to liking everything I read and viewed on Youtube about the gun... not only the many (I lost count) positive owner reviews but also what S&W said on the website.

Smith & Wesson L-Frame revolvers are built to suit the demands of the most serious firearms enthusiast. Available in six and seven shot cylinders, the L-Frame has a strong, durable frame and barrel built for continuous Magnum usage. As police officers and hunters will attest, this firearm is made to withstand heavy use.

It's just what I was looking for... because I bought mine to shoot. Sure, it's a beautiful gun and nice to look at... but I didn't buy it for that! I bought it to shoot! Often!