I never intended to be condescending. In fact I was admitting that in spite of shooting revolvers for over 40 years I still can't get it into my thick head that poor ejection technique results in dragging cylinders. With all those years of experience I should be an expert but for some reason in this particular aspect of revolver shooting I seem to be a perpetual newbie.
I'll also point out that IMO your problem most likely lies with your ammunition. Just to clarify what I think may be happening I will extend on what Joe44va pointed out. When the primer first ignites the initial pressure wave causes the primer to back out until it contacts the firing pin bushing and the case is driven forward until the rim contacts the cylinder. Basically the primer is sort of a piston being driven out of the case. Next the flame front from the primer gets through the flash hole and ignites the powder in the case. As the pressure rises the case expands until it contacts the walls of the chamber and the bullet starts to move. At this point the case is being held firmly in position by the pressure forcing the case wall into the chamber. After the bullet leaves the case and starts moving down the barrel the pressure starts to drop and at some point the case walls will "spring back" and the remaining pressure will cause the case to be driven back until the case head contacts the recoil shield and recapture that primer that was driven outwards by the initial ignition event.
Now, here is where case hardness and quality comes into play. If you have a case that is annealed too much it will take LESS pressure to keep the case locked in position in the cylinder. If that happens AND the bullet leaves the barrel before the case is released you will have a "high primer" that will tend to tie up the cylinder. Because the case won't be driven back into the recoil shield and recapture the primer. This is one way that ammunition can cause issues that logically seem to be a fault of the firearm.
So, what to do? One thing I would suggest is that you take up reloading. Not only will it allow you to shoot more but it will also allow you to have a larger degree of control over the quality of your ammunition. In addition if your sitting on a lot of that Geco ammunition you will be able to re-use the fired cases and actually work harden them enough to mitigate the problems you are experiencing. Because brass does work harden with firing cycles, theoretically until it becomes too brittle and splits. Note, you'll have to reload a 357 Magnum case 20 to 60 times before it gets too hard and with the lower operating pressure of 38 special it may take a hundred or more reload cycles with some brands of cases.
Finally, it is possible that you have some issue with your revolver that none of us has considered. However, the most common causes seem to have been well covered and eliminated. So, lets look into less common causes for excessive cylinder drag.
Number one for that would be a Barrel/Cylinder gap that is too small. As for how small, I run the B/C gap on my Dan Wesson 15-2 at 0.0035 inch and can fire well over 100 rounds without any hint of cylinder drag. I also have a 625JM with a B/C Gap of 0.0025 inch on a couple of chambers and it's never had issues with cylinder drag. So, based on my personal experience rather that Net ?Wisdom? lets say the lower limit is 0.004 inch just to play it safe. To test your B/C gap you start with an unloaded cylinder, close the cylinder, and then pull the cylinder lightly towards the rear while using valve clearance shims to determine the shim thickness where you get light drag on the shim fully inserted. Ideally you would want to see a gap in the 0.004 to 0.008 inch range but as tight as 0.003 inch and as loose as 0.012 inch is acceptable.
I'll also note that the condition called End Shake is done by pushing the cylinder towards the barrel and checking the B/C gap again. End shake is then determined to be the difference between the B/C gap with the cylinder forward and the cylinder rearward. End shake over 0.002 inch is considered excessive and should be corrected by either "stretching" the Yoke Tube or the installation of End Shake Shims.
Next up is the clearance between the recoil shield and rear face of the cylinder. This is best done using spark plug shims because they are thicker than valve setting shims. Based on the SAAMI specification (0.060-0.070) in an ideal world you would want to have this dimension to fall between 0.065 and 0.070 inch for a revolver that doesn't feature a cylinder recessed for the case rims. Note, the SAAMI minimum is 0.060 inch which is exactly equal to the SAAMI maximum for rim thickness, a condition that would cause drag with a zero End Shake setup, thus my preference for a bit of clearance. For a revolver with a recessed cylinder you'll want to find 6 cases with rims that measure as close to each other as possible, ideally with a rim thickness of 0.060 inch. Then you insert the cases into the cylinder and check the clearance between the rear face of the cases and the recoil shield. Ideally you'll want to see a clearance of at least 0.002 and max of 0.010 inch with 0.060 rim thickness or the mathematical equivalent if using a thinner case rim. As you can see this is one way where tolerances can stack up to create a problem with the firearm is perfectly within tolerance. Good news is these types of stackup situations are extremely rare. So rare that it's really just a theoretical possibility but it never hurts to check.
The last potential that I can think of is a bent Yoke causing a bind. In your described issues I believe that the chance of this being the cause is zero but it's worth looking at even if it's likely to be a waste of time. It's actually a rather simple check done with an empty cylinder. What you do is close the cylinder gently by pressing on the yoke at the point when it fits into the yoke recess under the barrel. Close until either the front or rear lock just engages. Then gently press on the rear of the cylinder by the recoil shield. If you hear a snick of the rear lock licking in the yoke is bent. If you hear nothing test the front locking point by opening and closing the cylinder by pressing it closed on the rear of the cylinder until a lock clicks in. Then press in at the yoke and listen for the front lock clicking in. Ideally in both tests you'll find both locks click in at the same time. However if one lock is "late" it's not really an issue of the force to engage the second lock is only in the 2-3 lbs. range. If it take a very firm push to get that second lock to engage you will want to have a qualified gunsmith correct it. BTW, most yokes that are "bent" are the result of a Previous Owner using a movie inspired flip of the wrist to close the cylinder, a practice commonly called Bogarting the revolver. I'll also note that for a bent yoke to cause the bind you have described it would really have to be very badly out of whack and this condition would not be resolved by changing to a different brand of ammunition. So, it's not likely at all to be the cause for your problem.
PS: I get my valve setting and spark plug shim sets at auto parts shops and they don't cost much and are handy to have when looking at a new revolver purchase.
