686 SSR hammer spring interference

[JFrames4ever]

I have 686 SSR that I changed the hammer spring to a Wilson spring. When using the stock SSR wooden grip in place pulling the trigger results in the hammer stirrup disengaging from the hammer. The hammer spring appears to be a flat rebent S & W spring and it hits the stock screw only with the SSR wooden grip. The other rubber grip supplied does not cause this. Obviously where the stock screw goes through the wooden grip is causing the interference. I like the grips and would like to use them. Has anybody had this problem before. Should I just rebend the spring slightly, or the parts are just incompatible?

 

[chief38]

I don't own the model in question here, (I do have a M586 from the early 80's) but it would seem to me that your replacement Main Spring is bent in such a way that it is obviously in the way of the Stock Screw. When the gun is cocked, the Screw is catching the Main Spring and taking tension off it allowing it the Stirrup to slip off.

The "fix" would either be to replace that Spring with a S&W version, try a Wolff version or to use the Rubber Grips. The Stock Screw hole on the pair of Wooden Grips must be drilled in a slightly different location.

If you bend the Spring you will change the tension resulting in a change in Trigger Pull weight. If this gun is used only for Target Shooting I suppose you could try, but before doing so you might want to have either the S&W or Wolff Springs on hand just in case it doesn't work.

 

[JFrames4ever]

Thanks much appreciated

 

[chief38]

BTW I forgot to mention that the Strain Screw that tensions that Main Spring must be tightened fully. If shortened, lengthened with a replacement or left loosened, that might be the reason the Spring is contacting the Screw also.

 

[steelslaver]

I never use after market springs.

Take you gun to the range or load up some cases with just primers. Unscrew the spring screw a couple turns and try it. If it still fire turn it out some more. Find where it will fire every time as far out as possible.Then turn it back in tight, counting the 1/4 turns till its tight. Remove it and then measure its overall length with a caliper. 1 turn is .0325 and a 1/4 turn is .0078. Take 1/4 turn count times .0078. Remove this much from the tip of screw. Install it tight. Fire it a bunch to check reliability. A little long is best, I always leave mine at least .01 long. BTW, if you get it to short. You can get 8-32 screws from an Ace Hardware that carries the gun screws in trays boxes. If you use these file off a couple threads near the end so they don't get mushroomed a bit and then be hard on threads if you ever remove it..

 

[Protocall_Design]

I like to measure the hammer pull weight with a trigger pull gage. When you get the adjustment to where it's reliable, you can record that number on the scale. Then shorten the screw until you get the same number on the scale. It takes all the guesswork out of the final setting. When it's 100% reliable, I like to take it up another 2 - 4 ounces to get rid of that 1 in 500 misfire.