686 SSR Odd Finding

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I just picked up a 686 SSR and went to clean & lube in preparation for a range trip. I found this sliver wedged between the barrel and frame (see the red circle). It looks to be a piece of brass about 3/16". Any thoughts members may have are welcome. Bertter picture added.
 

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That's a piece of copper bullet jacket that was shaved off the bullet. Your gun is probably out of time. You need to get that fixed before shooting it.

Many thanks for the heads up. I called S&W CS. They sent a return shipping label. It's going back tomorrow for a full check up.
 
For the life of me, I can't understand how anyone can get excited about anything S&W is currently producing. Hole, no hole, "classic" or any other name they come up with to sell guns. I mean it ain't rocket science. At this very moment, between what I've seen sitting in gun store cases (ie barrels at darn near 1 o'clock, etc) and documented cases of shoddy manufacturing on the internet, I wouldn't buy a new Smith anything for fifty cents on the dollar. And I like Smith & Wessons.

The only way to to get their attention is to starve them until they come around to doing things correctly. My grandpa said many things that still ring true. The one I understood at a very young age has saved me countless hours in my life.

"If you don't have time to do it right. You surely don't have time to do it twice."
 
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Got the replacement last week. At least it shoots ok but..
 

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It isn't rust. I just didn't wipe it down after shooting. The front sight is bent to the left looking from the rear. Different pics attached. Local gunsmith says it just needs a new sight. I sent the pictures to S&W. Waiting on a reply. Sorry about the orientation. They got rotated 90Deg CCW and I can't figure out how to fix it.
 

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It is a 686, Stainless should not rust. Bones001 Was that on there before you fired it?

The stainless steel used in firearms is typically some 400's series variant. It WILL rust, if given sufficient neglect. Usually takes a while for the onset and can generally be avoided by regular firearm maintenance and a little quality oil on all surfaces, including under the grips.
 
I though I had posted this before. The piece of copper comes from a bullet jacket. I have seen this before and it was a result of the forcing cone not being sufficiently reamed, not the timing being off. This results in a sharp edge that can strip jacket material or lead because the entrance to the forcing cone is only very slightly larger than the bullet.

I have had a couple of revolvers where I had to actually remove the barrel to get the copper out! In these cases, where the barrel is already out, I have set the barrel up in my lathe and bored the forcing cone slightly larger. This way I can control the diameter and angle of the forcing cone better than with a forcing cone reamer. With a carbide boring bar I also can get a better finish than often is seen with a tapered reamer, and I know the forcing cone is perfectly concentric to the bore!
 
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...I have had a couple of revolvers where I had to actually remove the barrel to get the copper out! In these cases, where the barrel is already out, I have set the barrel up in my lathe and bored the forcing cone slightly larger. This way I can control the diameter and angle of the forcing cone better than with a forcing cone reamer. With a carbide boring bar I also can get a better finish than often is seen with a tapered reamer, and I know the forcing cone is perfectly concentric to the bore!

Thinking you have a lathe with a good sized runout adjustable (or four jaw) chuck and probably a fair sized spindle bore? And either a threaded or split sleeve that goes over the barrel shank.

Running it with a steady rest would rob you of the ability to control bore runout, unless you assume the OD and the ID run together. Never mind the fun of driving it from the muzzle end.

Forcing cones of any size seem to be a Post WWI evolution, probably to reduce manufacturing costs. My favorite and first early 1900s .32-20 had basically just an edge break at the rifling origins, but I stupidly added a forcing cone when I was about 22, fresh from reading classic gunsmithing books and "knowing" every danged thing. Didn't help a thing, accuracy or "spitting-wise". Happily, it didn't hurt anything, much, either. Forty years later and it still is a good shooter. But I've left the rest of the "coneless" early hand ejectors I've had since alone.
 
I took it to a local gunsmith and he confirmed the barrel is okay. The sight was bent but since the SSR has a quick change front sight that is not pinned, I was able to remove it without any tools. I contacted S&W about it and they are sending a replacement. But in the meantime I decided to install a Dawson Precision fiber optic. Very satisfied with the performance. BTW, I just noticed today thet the 686-SSR is discontinued.
 

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