Another neat pickup- chopped 1917

pj151

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I had a Brazilian 1937 that was chopped and passed on to another forum member. Kinda missed having that one as I thought it was pretty unique. Gunsmithing was top notch. As luck would have it, I fell into another one recently.

This is a 1917 chopped barrel and rounded butt. Kframe grips fit almost perfectly. Has the bomb markings on the frame. No army markings on the butt and the lanyard hole is filled. All matching numbers. Obviously a re-blue with a deep blue much like a Colt. Nice that the markings were not polished off, roll marks and stampings are still pretty deep.

The bad-
Has a bit of corrosion in the cylinders and barrel.
The front site is on straight but it seems a bit too tall.
I'm pretty sure I paid too much for it.

Oh well, I liked it so much I had to get it.

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Too high is better than too low. Cutting it down is easy, making it taller is a LOT harder.
And a little pitting will never hurt a shooter.
 
Nice lookin' old snubbie.

I'm hoping, for your sake, the serial number on the butt is still there.

Yep, serial matches. Butt, under barrel, under ejector star, crane, and cylinder. 1491xx.

Thanks!
 
Yep, serial matches. Butt, under barrel, under ejector star, crane, and cylinder. 1491xx.

Thanks!

That's great. As pilgrim6a said, better to be too high than to be too low.

When you go to shoot it, take a variety of ammo with you-different weight bullets for example. You will probably get better accuracy with jacketed bullets and hard cast lead bullets.
 
Great belly gun you got yourself.

Shoot it before being concerned about the corrosion. As long as it doesn't cause cases to hang up in the chambers unduly I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with its accuracy and function.

Take a file with you and dial in the sight to bring up the point of impact for the load you're most likely to use in it. When you get home, round off the front sight to original profile, give it a dab of cold blue and no one will be the wiser..
 
When the first of the Brazilians started to show up in the early 90's I used to buy them from Fed-Ord in Minnesota for $99.50. They were absolutely rotten on the inside and out. I'd pull the stocks, hose them down with carb cleaner, and run patch after patch through the cylinders and barrel. They still looked very rough. But when taken to the range, most if not all gave very commendable accuracy with WW White Box ball ammo. One memorable example had no discernible rifling, even for a 1917 which is shallow anyway, but shot one ragged hole for 12 rounds at 20 paces.

Moral of the story? Try it before you do anything else to it.

Drew
 
pj,

Nice old modification. I'd have taken that one home, too.

Remember what it is. It's a "belly gun"! That means it is supposed to be effective when/if you have to stick it into someone's belly (or within grappling distance). Don't get hung up too much on the rifling. Even if they keyhole (they won't!) it will do what it was designed to do.

Regarding the sights, if used as it was designed, the likelihood of ever having time to take a sight picture with that tiny rear sight is slim and none. If you want a target gun, you should buy a target gun:D

Bob
 
Chopped M1937

I had it done to mine a few years ago with my Brazilian. I had the front sight cut high to hit a FBI Q target at 15 yards. Ran a lot of rounds though it then had it rebulit and "parked". This is the before shot.

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Now I carry a 25-14:

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pj,

...

Remember what it is. It's a "belly gun"! That means it is supposed to be effective when/if you have to stick it into someone's belly (or within grappling distance). ...
Bob
That's interesting, Bob.

I always thought "belly gun" meant it was short barrelled so it could be carried tucked into your belt, next to your belly, without any undue ... uh ... discomfort in that somewhat sensitive region of the anatomy.
 
Jack,

The definition is apt either way. It simply depends upon which end of the tool you are on!;)

Bob
 
pj151, I agree with Hondo44: don't give those pits a thought until you've put a bunch of rounds through your little buddy. Then make an objective decision about whether or not they really matter. I'm bettin' they don't!
 
I had a Brazilian 1937 that was chopped and passed on to another forum member. Kinda missed having that one as I thought it was pretty unique. Gunsmithing was top notch.

Did you own this one that I just bought? If you did I'd really appreciate any history or provenance you could provide.
 

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Pete:
Tell me the story too. Obviously a new barrel with the full lug for the ejector rod. I haven't been able to establish what sorts of barrels can be transplanted onto a 1917.

My pitted, grungy-looking Brazilian cries out for a changed look. ...round butt? how short a barrel could be fitted (e.g. 25-2?) bobbed hammer? and so on...
 
punxsutawneypete;136585770 Did you own this one that I just bought? If you did I'd really appreciate any history or provenance you could provide.[/QUOTE said:
No, that is not the one.
 
Pete:
Tell me the story too. Obviously a new barrel with the full lug for the ejector rod. I haven't been able to establish what sorts of barrels can be transplanted onto a 1917.

My pitted, grungy-looking Brazilian cries out for a changed look. ...round butt? how short a barrel could be fitted (e.g. 25-2?) bobbed hammer? and so on...

Any N frame 45 barrel will work in a 1917, so there's many choices:

Pre & Post war, no rib, no shroud for the extractor; 2nd model 455, 1917, 1950 Military, Classic Series 6" Mod 22


Pre & Post war, no rib, shrouded extractor; (rare in 45) 1st model 455, Classic Series 4" Mod 22 (also pre war 357 Mag, 38/44 HD & Outdoorsman and 3rd model 44 can be bored)

Post war w/rib and shroud; Pre models and Models 26 (1950 Target Lt. barrel) and 25 (1955 Target, HB)
Post war w/rib and full lug/shroud; Mod 25

Shortest barrel length possible:
With a full lug or 1/2 shroud: 3 1/4"; w/front lock part of shroud removed: 2 3/8"
With locking lug: 3"; with lug/front lock removed: 2 3/8"

Looks like the Mod 25-14 in post #12 above has an even shorter barrel and extractor.
 
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