Any significant differences between the M640 dashes?

[1sailor]

I have been packing an M&P340 for about 8 years. I never had any issues shooting it but I'm in my seventies now and thinking maybe I will get something a little softer shooting. I'm seriously considering selling my M&P and buying a used M640. I believe the no dash is .38 Special only so I guess I'll be looking at dashes 1,2 and 3 (the current dash I believe). Are there any significant changes I should be aware of? I'm thinking I can sell my M&P340 for at least as much as I would pay for a clean used 640.

 

[two-bit cowboy]

Back in 2016 I made the transition you're planning.

I picked up the Model 640-1 Pro and have been carrying it ever since. I can't help with the other 640 models, but I highly recommend the one I've got.

I tried lots of different grips and ammo -- from wad cutter .38s to heavy .357 Magnums. I stuck with the Karl Nill grips for the Centennial and the ammo I shot the best -- Barnes 140gr lead free Magnums -- so that's what I still carry.

 

[prescobd]

The no dash was the original 640 in .38 Special
The -1 is on the magnum frame, chambered in .357 and has a slightly longer lugged barrel.
The -2 is the same as the -3 but chambered in .38 Special. I'm looking for this model, so if you find one, and don't want it, let me know.
The -3 is the -1 with the internal lock.

 

[1sailor]

I would love to pick up a 640 Pro but there's a big difference in price compared to a standard 640. It sounds like either a dash 1 or dash 3 is what I'm looking for then. I don't really care if it has a lock or not. Never had a lock issue.

 

[rockquarry]

After having many J-frame snubnose .38s in the last fifty+ years, I've found they remain a basic J-frame regardless of dashes, no dashes, hammers, no hammers, partially exposed hammers, bobbed hammers, lightweight or steel frames, lock, lockless, etc.

The difficulty in shooting these guns with proficiency doesn't seem to change with any of the versions or features. A bit of marketing involved here, but good luck in your choice. I'd never use .357 Magnum ammo in those guns so chambered; more of a stunt than something of real usefulness, unless you're one of the very few shooters more skilled than about 98% of the rest of us.

 

[1sailor]

Not looking to improve my proficiency. I've been shooting on a regular basis for well over 50 years. At this point I figure I shoot about as well as I ever will and don't believe changing guns will change that. Just looking for a little more heft

 

[Bill In Texas]

I've been carrying a 640 daily for a few years now. I started with a -1 and used it until it developed a problem and I sent it back to S&W a couple of years ago.

They told me that they couldn't fix it and offered to send me a -3. I took Smith up on their offer and I've been carrying the 640-3 every since.

Other than the lock, I can't tell any difference between the two. You'll be happy with either.

I love to be able to comment on the Pro Series, but I haven't owned one yet!

 

[MetalMan]

The 640-1 Pro has been my EDC for almost 2 years now.

I have other J’s - 2x 36ND and 2x 60ND and a couple of K snubs - 19-5, 66-4.

The 640-1 Pro ticks all of the boxes for me. I shoot it well at SD distances and it’s comfortable for all day carry in a Milt Sparks VMII. I keep it stoked with .38 +P. The .357’s are left for the K’s.

The trigger stages well and I am able to control when it breaks. For SD purposes and considering age and location, I’ve not found the need to carry anything else on a daily basis.

 

[STCM(SW)]

640-1 grips

My 640-1 with grips they work great for me.

 

[kbm6893]

I don't like the magnum frame on the J frame. 640 No Dash for me, especially if you don't shoot .357.

 

[Rpg]

If you want a revolver to use, you’ll be much happier with the 640 no dash. It’s built on a more svelt frame than the magnum frame and for the 38 special.

The 357 in a J frame is a miserable device when used with 357 magnum ammo. If it’s an alloy or scandium frame revolver, it’s much, much worse.

The vast majority of folks with 357 J frames settle for 38+p ammo. They end up with a 38 in the clunky magnum frame.

The 640 no dash is the most desirable of those listed above.

 

[1sailor]

Having fired many rounds through them I understand the issue with using full house magnums in a J frame. However, I own several .357 magnums and would prefer a 640 in magnum also.

 

[Magnum_PI]

I can't comment on the "differences" of previous models but I've now owned 2 640 Pros (and currently have my newest one and won't be selling this one). I love them. I would not go back to a lightweight (had a 642 years back) and did not care for the recoil.

If you're looking for a 640, I'd recommend a Pro Series Model.

No lock, smooth shooter, real sights, nice fit and finish, and decent trigger. They're worth the extra $ to me, and that's why I went with it.

 

[jcelect]

640

I shot the 640 for years then I ran onto a 640 Pro. You need good grips that fit your hand which makes shooting 357 Mags manageable, for a few cylinders full! 38+Ps are no problem! The key is good fitting grips, no matter what size hands you may have! Plus with the 640 Pro you get full moon clips. This is my 640Pro with Curt Harlow custom grips made to my specs!

jcelect

 

[NCBeagle]

The 640-2 on J Magnum Frame, chambered in .38 only, slightly bead blasted finish, is a great carry gun. Have three of them. UM Boot grip is stock. I carry with Pachmayr Compac grip.

 

[kbm6893]

The 640-2 on J Magnum Frame, chambered in .38 only, slightly bead blasted finish, is a great carry gun. Have three of them. UM Boot grip is stock. I carry with Pachmayr Compac grip.

Are all of those NYPD guns? I know the 640-2 in .38 was made for them and the duller finish was also ordered.

 

[Marshal Tom]

I had and carried an M&P 340 for several years. I never liked shooting it all that much but I was OK with it. I recently sold it and got a 649ND that I like very much. It is much nicer to shoot due to the increased weight. I do lust after a 640 Pro. That is the model I would get if you can possibly swing it.

 

[ADP3]

If you go with a .357 Model 640 I recommend three .357 loads. In hollow points the Remington 125gr. Golden Saber and Speer 135gr. Short Barrel loads. Both are mid-range .357 with more velocity than a .38 +P but not as punishing as a full blown .357. The third load that I’d recommend is the HSM .357 Cowboy ammo. Again more velocity than a .38 +P but not as punishing as the traditional loads. I have had excellent results out of all three in 640-1’s and 640-3’s. If I was shopping for a .357 model 640 today I would go with the engraved 640-1. No lock to fuss with and the engraving is a nice touch. SKU is 150784. Gunbroker usually has a few dozen but your local shop can probably get you one in at a better price.

Best Regards,
ADP3

 

[Gdogman]

That is why you cant find any....

NCBeagle has them all

 

[JohnRippert]

If you have some fairly beefy grips that you can get all your fingers around then .357 in a 640 is not bad. I prefer the magnum framed 640 myself, as the little bit of extra weight helps with recoil and you can shoot everyhing from bunny fart wadcutters to 180gr Buffalo Bore hardcast in it. I regularly shoot 158gr HP ammo in mine. Granted I only shoot about 10 at a time to stay proficient, but that is more due to price than punishment. These are Sile J-frame target grips.