Apex Trigger Clicking

[cuervo]

...and it's not the trigger safety lever catching against the frame.

As I pull the trigger, the lever completely clears the frame, there is a click, and then it will fire.

This happens only with the slide on, so I'm leaning towards the striker block. I've contacted Apex to ask them, but I figured somebody must have run into this with his install.

Short of buying Apex's rounded striker block, is there a fix for this? It did not occur with the stock trigger, or at least not nearly so much that it became a very distinctive click once I put the Apex in.

All other items about the new trigger seem correct. It fires and resets fine, no candy-cane bending was required. I think the Apex lightened the trigger by about 1 pound, and it does feel crisper once I get past the click.

 

[Shield9mm]

No idea what could it be, I have installed different apex kits on three different guns including the shield and never had that clicking sound you described. Can you be more specific, exactly what apex parts you installed?.

 

[cuervo]

just the polymer Action Enhancement Trigger, nothing else, on a full size M&P 40, no mag safety, no thumb safety.

 

[Shield9mm]

just the polymer Action Enhancement Trigger, nothing else, on a full size M&P 40, no mag safety, no thumb safety.

Maybe something is rubbing, is the pin on the trigger well inserted? I have two apex polymer triggers and one aluminum and they are super smooth. I suggest try to reinstall it and see what happens.

 

[cuervo]

Just a follow-up...

I've installed it several times, same thing. I've been emailing Apex and they think it is the combination of the old trigger bar and old striker block.

I've tried a different slide (slide2) on the frame (frame1), and I get a click, but not as much. I installed a second Apex trigger on a different pistol (frame2), and it works fine. I can just feel when the trigger bar engages the striker block, but no click. I tried slide1 on frame2, and it is much better than on frame1, but not as good as slide2.

So, my first thought is replacing the trigger bar on frame1. Next would be either polishing frame1's striker block, or buying Apex's version and installing in slide1.

 

[Shield9mm]

can you do a short video or maybe some pics? I'm leaning more towards the striker vs striker block. Have you noticed any grittiness on the SB.

 

[cuervo]

Attached is a picture of my striker block. This link is to the video. The first 50 seconds is without the slide, just showing that there is no binding. Then with the slide on, you can hear the clicking before the striker releases.
TriggerClick.mp4 Video by cuervo | Photobucket

 

[Bkreutz]

I'm thinking the striker block is binding in it's hole. extra trigger pressure breaks it past the bind (the first click). The way to verify this is remove the striker block and spring and try it without it. If the noise is gone you've found the source of the click.

 

[cuervo]

I removed the striker block, and the click is gone, but not does not necessarily point to just the striker block--it could be the trigger bar and where it pushes on it.

I have pushed the striker block and can't feel any binding and it feels the same as another pistol (slide2). It does appear to sit a little more proud in this pistol than in other one. But, that could just be my perception. I tried measuring it and can't really tell where the caliper hits the block since they move when pressed. As a best guess, slide1 striker block is 0.010" taller than slide2's striker block. That could be causing interference with the trigger bar. But, there was never any clicking with the stock trigger, just crappy trigger pull.

I polished the striker block a little with no difference. Comparing it to Apex's USB, it is a completely different geometry. I'm going to upgrade the trigger bar first, and polish the striker block some more, and then try a USB if needed.

 

[Steve912]

Can you look up thru the mag well and observe the interaction of striker block and trigger bar?

 

[cuervo]

I tried getting a dental mirror in there but couldn't see far enough back.

Does anyone have a striker block to measure? Mine is OAL 0.445" and the rim is 0.036". I'm wondering if it is a little long so that the trigger bar is pushing more on the side before pushing it up.

 

[clarkz71]

A new "H" trigger bar $12.50 and an Apex USB $25 will fix this
and drop another pound on the pull.

 

[Woff]

Where exactly would one pick up the "h" trigger bar?

 

[clarkz71]

Where exactly would one pick up the "h" trigger bar?

All 3 of these places have it on back order
But you can get an e-mail notification when it's back in stock

You can also send you pistol in to S&W for the upgrade to the current version
for free, you just have to deal with waiting.

S&W M&P 9/40 Trigger Bar Assembly H Stamp at G and R Tactical

Smith & Wesson Trigger Bar Assembly S&W M&P M&P Compact 9mm Luger 357

TRIGGER BAR ASSEMBLY | Brownells

 

[Woff]

Those places have been oos going on a year now. What did you say to get your handgun serviced? "I'd like to update my gun please"?

 

[clarkz71]

I would call CS and complain of a gritty trigger and no reset.

The newer guns have parts to correct this and they should update
anything they find not in current spec.

It is a lifetime warranty on these pistols.

800-331-0852 ext 4125

 

[cuervo]

It is now as resolved as it's going to get...

I ordered an H trigger bar from Brownells and an Apex USB.

Trying different combinations, the biggest factor in getting rid of the click was the ligher/shorter spring that came with the USB. 2nd was the trigger bar, and a close 3rd was the USB itself.

I can still just feel when the trigger bar contacts the striker block, but it is no where near as bad as it was. The trigger weight is now measuring in the 6's where it was in the 8's.

The picture shows the USB and Apex spring on the left and stock parts on the right.

 

[Shield9mm]

I agree with you, before replacing apex sear and sb my trigger wasn't clicking but wasn't feeling 100% right, it was a weird pulling sensation when the TB engages the SB, I tried different combinations and IMO it is mostly the stock SB spring, even with the apex SB and the smith spring I was able to experiment the same issue, after the apex spring it got 100% better, my trigger pull is around 5.10 lb average


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[TruckinThumper]

If you got the set forward trigger, and nothing else, I can see how that would cause an issue. If you did hte whole kit, you *should* have no problems.

Set forward trigger , OEM sear, and the OEM striker block/spring.....I can see that causing all sorts of weird stuff.

 

[kilo6one]

I know this thread is a bit old, but I seem to be having the same problem. I just installed an APEX AEK in my M&P 2.0 compact and have a distinct click before the trigger "wall". When looking through the frame/slide gap just above the thumb safety, I can see the trigger bar moving while pressing the trigger. At the same time of the "click" I can see the trigger bar move away from the slide edge and towards the mid-line of the gun. Also, when checking the reset I can hear a click before the reset click and the trigger bar makes the same small movement. What's weird (more so) is that neither click happens every time I press the trigger. It seems to happen more when I rack the slide just enough to reset the trigger than it does when fully racking the slide. I haven't thought to check the USB, but in the back of my mind I thought that might be what is causing the noise.