Apparent design flaw on the SW22 Victory.

I take the allen wrench to the range and check the barrel after firing 60 rounds; when I have to refill my three mags anyway. If loose I just tighten again and keep on shooting. I'm sure once I figure out the right "tightness" and train the muscles all will be well.
 
I don't own a Victory, have been looking at them though. After reading these posts I wonder if the screw may be bottoming out. As someone said it will never tighten up if it bottoms out. Is it designed to where it can bottom out?
 
I don't own a Victory, have been looking at them though. After reading these posts I wonder if the screw may be bottoming out. As someone said it will never tighten up if it bottoms out. Is it designed to where it can bottom out?

From what I saw in the manual, it appears that S&W expects the screw to loosen and that they expect you to re-tighten it.
 
I think the secret is to tighten it to around 40 inch lbs on this screw. From what I have heard that works quite well. So does the O-ring deal as well. Probably a coupla dollars for a bag of O-rings I would think in the correct size. I think useing Loc Tite in the long run will cause problems sooner or later.
 
My Victory came in to my dealer last Wednesday, dry fired it in the store and it did not self destruct. I liked the trigger and sights so purchased it. Ran a bore brush through it, soaked the pistol in alcohol and blew it out a few times with compressed air then CLP and the air hose again then a brush with bore butter on it.

Took her outside and put 325 rounds of Federal Auto Match through it, had to adjust the elevation down 7 clicks and it was hitting dead center at 50 yards. Ran a brush through the bore and then shot another bulk batch of Federal stuff and am very impressed! My best group is 10 rounds in a 3" group. Not all the time, but very accurate and can hit a 6 inch chain sprocket for as many consecutive shots as I want to shoot. 50 yards is the shortest distance I shoot regularly with a pistol off hand.

The screw remains tight, dry fired it and no problems or dings on the chamber, no failures to feed, other than rarely the first round in a full magazine, recycled the slide once and and they all chambered.

The trigger is very nice, I like the sights and have no complaints, as soon as I figure she is broken in I plan on putting some better ammo through her and find out what she likes best.

She falls a little short of my mod. 41's but is well wroth the money.

I can easily recommend her as a fine pistol.

I thank those of you who recommended I give one a try.
 
Re posting on the loose barrel issue. I have taken my SW22 victory out after applying nail polish to the threads on the socket cap screw below the barrel. I shot about 200 rounds of various ammo, and the barrel did not come loose. I cleaned it up and re applied nail polish to the threads. I used a folding hex key set in stead of the supplied allen, and re loosened and re tightened to get a feel on how much pressure to apply and not over do it. I had previously said that I was not going to use nothing but the supplied allen, since I am mechanical and over 20 years experience using various allen wrenches I knew my limits on tightening things up. I called Smith & Wesson again on this matter and again was told to use a little blue or green loctite[ not the red leave it off]. I have come to the conclusion that the loctite is the best way to go. I know that the screw threads will have to be cleaned from time to time. I do not like the nail polish and S&W does not have a fix for this. I will repeat on the best way to go is for me only, other shooters will have to decide which method they want to use. I will say this if you tighten the screw too much you might not break it loose cause the threads are dry and there will be a popping sound or snap, with the loctite you snug down and learn to tighten just enough. Hopes this helps someone Spongy.
 
If I know that I will be removing a fastener, I use Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate instead on anaerobic threadlockers like LocTite or GunTite. VC-3 (et al.) is applied to the threads of a screw and allowed to dry 30 minutes before assembling. It works by friction and not by bonding. It's reusable up to 5 times after which it can be removed with a brush and solvent and reapplied.

Either the Vibra-Tite VC-3 and/or the #61 O ring will work. I've tried both individually, and together. As you said, the VC-3 is not meant to be a permanent bond. I've reused it up to 7 times. You can feel it grabbing when you tighten the screw. Good stuff.
 
Maybe using enough torque is the answer. There are inexpensive torque wrenches on the market, calibrated in inch-pounds. Once you have the magic number, you could repeat it every time.
What does the owner's manual say about this screw?

POSTSCRIPT: I was able to view the manual online. It says to tighten the screw until it is 'snug'. And it advises to periodically check the tightness of the screw and tighten as necessary. I suppose this means keeping an allen wrench in your range bag and checking the screw before and during shooting.

I keep mine in the Victory case, but I have a complete set of Allen wrenches in my range bag too. Doesn't everyone?
 
Re posting on the loose barrel issue. I have taken my SW22 victory out after applying nail polish to the threads on the socket cap screw below the barrel. I shot about 200 rounds of various ammo, and the barrel did not come loose. I cleaned it up and re applied nail polish to the threads. I used a folding hex key set in stead of the supplied allen, and re loosened and re tightened to get a feel on how much pressure to apply and not over do it. I had previously said that I was not going to use nothing but the supplied allen, since I am mechanical and over 20 years experience using various allen wrenches I knew my limits on tightening things up. I called Smith & Wesson again on this matter and again was told to use a little blue or green loctite[ not the red leave it off]. I have come to the conclusion that the loctite is the best way to go. I know that the screw threads will have to be cleaned from time to time. I do not like the nail polish and S&W does not have a fix for this. I will repeat on the best way to go is for me only, other shooters will have to decide which method they want to use. I will say this if you tighten the screw too much you might not break it loose cause the threads are dry and there will be a popping sound or snap, with the loctite you snug down and learn to tighten just enough. Hopes this helps someone Spongy.

You should try the Vibra-tite VC-3. It's designed for screws which will be adjusted (unscrewed).
 
Wow, 101 and one DIY fixes to something that S&W under designed and improperly tested. As an engineer and a long term S&W fan, I'm disappointed but not overly surprised.

My fix? Trade it on a Ruger MK III. Once you understand assembly is all about hammer position, the rest is easy.
 
I have an old High Standard with front push button take down, amazing just how snug that push button gets after shooting it.
I wonder if maybe Smith used a left handed screw instead if the bolt would still loosen or if it would naturally tighten?
I have used a simple dab of pure silicone on threads to absorb vibrations that loosen screws and it is always easy to remove.
Karl
 
I have never heard of this product, I only have one other pistol 44 mag. S.R. Hawk. and if it wasn't for S&W screw issue probably wouldn't be here.I like the idea behind this Vibra-Tite-VC3, gona check it out, thanks the SPONGE.
 
My final thoughts on the take down screw coming loose on the SW22 Victory. I started using Vibra Tite VC3 and its working. I have on 3 shooting sessions fired about 600 rounds and the barrel has not came loose. My last session was on 5/20/16 [260] rounds various ammo and it was still secured when I took it down to clean, in fact I put the same screw back in and did not have to put any more VC3 on it to tighten up. you can go to ebay and find 5ml tube or larger amounts. The Sponge
 
New Problem Worse...

So My Victory is about 2 months old and has about 700 to 1000 rounds on it. I had an issue with the screw coming loose after 100 rounds or less. Not the set screw but the takedown screw. I also had an issue with the part on the barrel coming loose. I used purple loctit on that. I did put a tiny amount on the screw after I cleaned it last. Today I go to the range and after about 30 rounds the barrel flew off with no warning of any problem after I picked up all the pieces I found that the screw broke off in the barrel in just about half. The piece in the bung was not tight at all it turned right out. The threads show no sign of being over tightened or being cracked. It just failed! I will try to post a picture of it later. S&W said oh no problem we will send you a new one? I am less than happy and I loved it right up to this..
 
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What is S&W going to send as a "new one"? New Barrel or new screw? I would imagine there's some finish damage when the barrel flew off.

Good luck!
 
A Screw

they are sending one screw! I asked if I could get 2 and he said NO! Yes it has 2 small marks on one side. Not enough to cry about but yes there was minor marks.
 
Used a lock washer just a little smaller than the screw. Used a ice pick and enlarged the washer till the screw would just fit threw it. Screw fits thru lock washer and fits in screw bore hole. Problem solved!
 
It seems like everyone is making a mountain, out of a molehill.

VC-3 vibration blocker does the trick and allows the take down screw to be "fully seated."

I also used it on the optional optic rail as well.
 
WE have had fellow members buy the O-ring for as low as .5C each. One O-ring is going to last for a very long time. I am too cheap to pay for special lubes like that when I can solve a problem for 5 cents and have No cleanup afterwards as well. The #61 O-ring is a permanent fix also. Any savings goes on my ammo bill.
 

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