Automobile Scan Tool

Jeff423

US Veteran
Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
1,537
Reaction score
1,277
Location
St. Charles County, MO
After paying over $400 for a repair I could have done for $150 if I had a scan tool I'm thinking about buying one. It seems like the prices run between $20 - $5,000. I am thinking about $100.00. Can I get one for that that would provide basic diagnostic info? For example a bad coil or egr valve? I would also like to reset the check engine light but I don't need to program a key, or manually run the fuel pump.

TIA,

Jeff
 
Register to hide this ad
I have about 4 different scan tools strewn around my house and shop. There are two important items to consider:

1. Make sure whichever tool you buy gets free software updates. This is becoming very important because the software in modern vehicles may be routinely updated whenever you take it to a dealer, and in the very latest ones the updates can be done wirelessly. Over the course of 11 years, my 2013 Silverado had at least 5 different software versions installed that I am aware of. It was usually updated whenever I took it into the dealer for warranty or recall work. If your scanner doesn't keep up it may not work as you expect; and...

2. Realize that there are more than just one computer in modern cars. A good scanner will not only talk to the engine ECM but to the transmission, airbags, brakes, body control module, and about a dozen other systems. The more different systems your scanner talks to, the more money you should expect to spend.

The last scanner I bought was an "ArtiDiag600S" by TopDon which talks to every computer module I need - ABS, SRS, ECM, TCM, oil, brakes, battery management, steering wheel angle, ETS, DPF, TPMS (tires), and even brake bleeding. Plus it has manufacturer-specific software, although I only keep those loaded for vehicles I expect to ever work on (I doubt anyone wants me to work on their Ferrari!). This scanner can be had for less than $200 but fair warning, it is a bit complex.

Hope this helps!
 
^^^^ This!
Most scanners will pickup a random misfire or a specific cyl. like P0303. Misfire #3 cylinder.
If you can get a DTC use GOOGLE to search the code.
Some sites tell you the most common problems.
A common misperception is a code reader will pinpoint your problem.
It will point you in the direction. Like P0174. Lean bank 2. You then have to figure why it’s lean.
 
Last edited:
^^^^ This!
Most scanners will pickup a random misfire or a specific cyl. like P0303. Misfire #3 cylinder.
If you can get a DTC use GOOGLE to search the code.
Some sites tell you the most common problems.
A common misperception is a code reader will pinpoint your problem.
It will point you in the direction. Like P0174. Lean bank 2. You then have to figure why it’s lean.

It's because the other bank is fat.
 
Paul Koerner aka the Corvette Mechanic on YouTube, is a Certified GM World Class Tech, comes to Carlisle PA every year to offer free diagnostics on cars. He has the top line GM diagnostic tools and software.

Even he gets stumped every once in awhile. He can only offer a few possibilities. The electronics on the various systems on cars are so intertwined it’s mind boggling.

I received a bunch of codes about a year ago on my C8. Emissions, brake sensor, transmission. The worst being the dreaded “transmission needs immediate service, call your dealer asap”. If you have a C8 you don’t want to hear that. DCT trannies are $$$$’s.

Drove it to the dealer. Half hour later he informs me “the battery needed charging, we did so, cleared the codes, and now you are good to go, no charge”.

I always have the battery on a tender as the electronics will drain it just sitting there. Apparently one of the leads was defective and the battery ran down. Changed the leads, and a year later no issue.
 
Last edited:
Blue Driver is a cute device ... plugs into your diagnostics port and links to your phone via blue tooth.
Not only will it pull codes, it'll give you live data as well
 
I also advise going to the local Parts Store and let them check it for you. Write down the code it shows.
If you insist on having your own, get the cheapest thing that will actually give you the code. Once you have the code, the internet can give you all the possibilities and the fixes.
 
I also advise going to the local Parts Store and let them check it for you. Write down the code it shows.
If you insist on having your own, get the cheapest thing that will actually give you the code. Once you have the code, the internet can give you all the possibilities and the fixes.

More and more, the codes alone are insufficient.
A failed high pressure direct injection pump does not have a direct code
P0172 system rich
P0324 knock or vibration
P228D pressure regulator too high

The closest to the problem was the regulator code,
Changing it would have done nothing.
With live data, fuel pressure was charted clearly showing the pumps failure
You need live data on today's cars
 
After my wifes BMW and its unrelenting barrage of flashing warning lights on the dash I purchased a Foxwell scanner.
Was able to turn off the lights and figure out what was going on under the hood.
A two way scanner is handy to have now a days.
Something as simple as changing your own oil or battery needs a way to turn off the dash light.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top