Bad flame cutting? Need to know

Wfevans4

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2024
Messages
113
Reaction score
86
Is this considered bad flame cutting for a 629-3, likely made in early 90's? I very well may make an offer on it tomorrow. Is it anything to be concerned about?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8398.jpg
    IMG_8398.jpg
    21.4 KB · Views: 585
Register to hide this ad
Unfortunately, I can't get a better image. They emailed it to me. I lightened my screen on my phone and it helped a lot. What would it do if it was bad flame cutting?
 
Looks fine to me.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8398.jpg
    IMG_8398.jpg
    12.5 KB · Views: 628
I don't see an issue. Doesn't look out of the ordinary. Actually looks like there's very little. Any revolver is going to have some minor visible damage in that area, Magnum revolver more so. But most magnum revolvers don't get very many full power loads through them. Most can't afford enough full power ammo to hurt them, or tolerate the recoil.
 
Looks fine to me. The only guns I ever saw were ones used in silhouette shooting in the early 80's. Mostly guys using rifle powder (IMR 4227) in pistol cartridges. Early 80's Ruger recalled their 357 MAX Blackhawk due to flame cutting.
 
Nope. Not bad. I have a 586 with real flame cutting, you are a ways away from that.
 
I'm sure there is a little flame cutting present, but looking at the forcing cone, I see just a little erosion. Forcing cone erosion is a pretty good indicator of how a magnum caliber revolver has been used. The more full power, magnum loads fired, the more erosion you will find at the edge of the forcing cone.
 
I agree with stansdds ...
Forcing Cone tells the real story ... and very little erosion there !
I'll second the .. Looks Good !
Gary
 
Last edited:
Is this considered bad flame cutting for a 629-3, likely made in early 90's? I very well may make an offer on it tomorrow. Is it anything to be concerned about?

Your flame cutting issue is light to moderate. That is normal on revolvers because of the barrel/cylinder gap letting focused gases and unburned powder escape at that exact point. In turn, those gases and unburned powder, debris, flame and lead act as an abrasive and cut a line in the top strap - it's just the way it is. The higher pressure and velocity the loads are that get fired, the more severe and deeper the cut gets. I've never seen or heard about a revolver that had to be taken out of service because the cut became a threat to safety.

The only way to stop flame cutting is to buy a brand new revolver and never shoot it. lol...... Seriously, you are fine!
 
For someone with the right tools, it does not take log to remove the barrel, trim .0276 off the face of the barrel shank and .02777 off the back of the barrel shoulder. Install the barrel back in the frame, trim that .02777 of the center pin and ejector rod, a recut the face of the barrel shank to get you gap just how you want it, a bit of work on the forcing cone and your back in business.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top