Basic plumbing question. Tank to bowl gasket

[Rule3]

When replacing the tank to bowl gasket, when tightening down, do you tighten enough to have the tank touch the bowl?

There is a little lip there. I tightened it down almost to contact so there is still some movement in the tank that I do not like.

I tend to over tighten things so I do not want to crack it.

It's a basic American Standard Cadet if that helps.

Toilet was removed and re set due to remodeling.

Thanks

 

[bitstream]

I'd avoid contact; it might cause it to crack when loaded. I do what you described, tighten down, but just above contact. I've never had leaks.

 

[m1gunner]

I'd avoid contact; it might cause it to crack when loaded. I do what you described, tighten down, but just above contact. I've never had leaks.

I do it the same way, never a leak.

 

[Rule3]

It's holding so far. The part that miffed me about this whole thing is it's the second time around,

I bought a a repair kit at Lowes, put it in and it had a leak of about 1 drop per hour, just enough to get on your nerves. I have done a lot of basic plumbing and never had a bad leak just ones like this.

Anyway I thought it was the bolt washers, so I took it off and it was the main gasket had split. So I bough a different brand at Homers Depot (Fluidmaster) and it is much better quality than the junk one at Lowes.

 

[wamalo]

You're dealing with two issues: sealing and stability.

Regarding sealing, I always coat a rubber seal such as that used between the bowl and tank (water closet to some) with a thin coating of plumber's grease or petroleum jelly to assure no leaks. This technique has worked well for many decades.

Regarding stability, once you're completed the assembly of the tank to the bowl, they should feel like one unit. Most bowls or tanks have stand offs to make contact with the mating unit. While you don't want to over-tighten the joint, you do not want any relative motion between the two. Just tighten until the first point of contact between the tank and bowl and stop. Some guys use a dap of plumber's putty at the standoffs.

Good luck.

 

[Rule3]

You're dealing with two issues: sealing and stability.

Regarding sealing, I always coat a rubber seal such as that used between the bowl and tank (water closet to some) with a thin coating of plumber's grease or petroleum jelly to assure no leaks. This technique has worked well for many decades.

Regarding stability, once you're completed the assembly of the tank to the bowl, they should feel like one unit. Most bowls or tanks have stand offs to make contact with the mating unit. While you don't want to over-tighten the joint, you do not want any relative motion between the two. Just tighten until the first point of contact between the tank and bowl and stop. Some guys use a dap of plumber's putty at the standoffs.

Good luck.

It is sealed (not leaking) but the water tank will rock back and forth if pushed on. I checked our other toilet (same make) and it is solid. (I put that one also)

So if that lip is what you call a standoff, I have about a 1/8" to go before it touches. So I think a little more tightening will do it. (this is where I get in trouble) But it is not right having it move if you lean your back on it.

I let the Queen sit on it

 

[enfield]

I wouldn't put vaseline or any other petroleum-based grease on a rubber gasket. Rubber and petroleum don't get along well together. I'd use silicone grease if anything. I doubt that grease is required.

 

[Rule3]

No,no grease. I torqued it down a bit more so the tank is not wobbling. So far so good, No leaks, runs or errors.

 

[jj2am44]

I had one leak once-I over tightened it.

 

[DeathGrip]

I wouldn't put vaseline or any other petroleum-based grease on a rubber gasket. Rubber and petroleum don't get along well together. I'd use silicone grease if anything. I doubt that grease is required.

+1 Available at your local pool supply store.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

5200. Works like a charm

 

[Maximumbob54]

Home Depot has kits with parts that are better than the junk parts toilet kits come with. The bolts are better, the gaskets are better, and having bought two of them and adding silicone grease to the gaskets I have had zero leaks. Over tightening crushes the gaskets to cause leaks, using bleach tablets can eat away at cheap rubber, and if you have tank on bowl contact you are liable to crack the bottom of the tank. You aren’t aiming for zero movement, you want minimal movement. And if you used the wax ring that came with the toilet kit then that is also a junk part. Again, the full kit at HD should either have it or buy it separate. It has about twice the wax to seal against potential problems later on. Think of it as the cheapest insurance you will ever purchase. It’s really a shame that the big name companies put such crummy parts in their toilet kits. It makes them look bad in the long run and putting the better grade stuff in the box wouldn’t be much of a bump in cost. Such is life.