Batteries

[Dennis The B]

Entrapped as I am, by the need to use batteries for so many devices (flashlights, especially), I tend to buy batteries in quantity.

The choices usually come down to Energizers or Duracells.

I have several Pelican, Maglight, Surefire, and Streamlight flashlights. I've recently had lighting problems with a Pelican which has an induction switch. I really have to keep the contacts spotless, else it just won't come on. This light has been replaced once by Pelican, but now I suspect it may be battery, and not switch related.

I've not had any major catastrophes, but I've noticed that Duracells seem to degrade much quicker than Energizers. While I don't have any empirical data, anecdotally, it seems that Energizers don't degrade to leakage as quickly as Duracells.

Please chime in with opinions, emotional outbursts, etc.

 

[Andy Griffith]

I take it that these flashlights take 123's instead of AA's?

 

[RdrBill]

Sir.
Can not answer which will last longer. All will last longer if extras/spares from your bulk buy are stored in cold refrigerator. It slows down the chemical deterioration within the cells.
We have extra refrigerator's at work that are reserved for batteries, we use a lot of them.
Keep them in a leak proof container if you store them in a frig. that will have food.
Bill@Yuma

 

[Dennis The B]

I take it that these flashlights take 123's instead of AA's?

The Surefires use 123's. The balance use D's, C's, AA's, and AAA's. A real hodgepodge.

 

[Pilgrim]

what do you use a lot of flashlights for? If I turn one on twice a year, it's a lot.

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

I buy Energizer AA and C from Sam's Club in their large packs. Seem to work as good as any.

 

[Rule3]

I used to use only Duracell. Never ever had a problem until recently. I had a AA leak on me and I do not think they last as long as they used to.

I now use only Energizer Rechargeable(2500 mAh)in my lights and cameras.

 

[JohnnieB]

Sounds like you might be having battery-contact problems rather than battery or switch problems.
Or at least with the devices using alkaline batteries. I'm not sure with the Lithium types.

I did some fairly extensive research pertaining to rapid battery discharge rates about 30 years ago, shortly after our friends in EPA decided to ban Mercury in disposable batteries and here's what I discovered. (From memory - which ain't too good these days - so the names of the compounds might not be correct)

Alkaline batteries out-gas Manganese Dioxide, which only reacts with Beryllium and Copper.
Guess what spring type (Flat or coiled) battery-contacts are typically made of.... Gold, Silver or Tin plated Beryllium-Copper.

The plating is very thin and when it wears through in spots, the out-gassed Manganese Dioxide attacks the expose conductive spring, forming an invisible, highly resistive, corrosion layer.

The failure mode (aka - discharge) of a cell is high internal resistance. (That's what the Mercury was for - Actually it was for higher ampacity, longer usable battery life was likely an unintended side effect.) So after a bit of wear on the battery-contacts, perfectly good batteries will display the same end of life symptoms as a discharged battery.

Cleaning the battery-contacts will correct the problem, but it will return quickly since aggressively cleaning the battery-contacts not only removes the high resistance corrosion, it also removes more of the protective plating.

I use a non-abrasive contact cleaner whenever I replace batteries and I insert/remove batteries very carefully to avoid damaging the thin plating.

There are (or at least there were 30 yrs ago) only 6 manufacturers of alkaline batteries in the entire world so all alkaline batteries come off the same 6 sets of assembly lines no matter what brand is stamped on the case.

I usually buy Energizers, but only because my wife likes the Bunny.

Hope this helps,
John

 

[n4zov]

The current thinking on 123 batteries is to avoid non-vented cheap Chinese made batteries because of the real danger of explosion and fire. Even the best brands of alkaline batteries sometimes leak and damage the flashlight, so they should be checked often for signs of leakage. You might spend some time on the CandlePowerForums dot com for really in depth information on batteries.

 

[JcMack]

About eight years ago I bought some Surefire flashlights. They were kind of a new, everyone gotta have one deal then. At that time I got a couple boxes of Duracell 123's. I rarely use the lights, I usually carry AA powered LED pocket lights. I put those Surefires away years ago with batteries installed. It dawned on me the other day that I should check them for corrosion. All 4 lights worked, but the E2E WAS dim so I replaced the batteries. I took no special precautions with those batteries and they all work after 8 yrs.

 

[JohnnieB]

About alkaline batteries leaking. They all do, or will.

a wet gas is generated as part of the chemical reaction and must be vented or the case will eventually rupture at its weakest point. A dead short across the poles will make some cells pop their case or explode

The vent is filtered to dry the gas and keep the semi-liquid, highly corrosive, electrolytes from leaking out of the case, but the filter isn't always successful and all will eventually leak.

If I can find copies of the reports and memos I wrote back then, I'll make them available. They contain some pretty good info since I consulted with some of the senior engineers and designers at Ray-o-Vac and Duracell (Can't remember the parent company's name at the moment).

I'm not up to speed on some of the later technologies like Lithium-Ion and Metal-Hydride, but NiCads had better ampacity and longevity when they had Mercury in them.

John

Just noticed n4zopv's post mentioning candlepowerforums dot com - you'll get more current info there when it comes back on-line

 

[Rule3]

About alkaline batteries leaking. They all do, or will.

a wet gas is generated as part of the chemical reaction and must be vented or the case will eventually rupture at its weakest point. A dead short across the poles will make some cells pop their case or explode

The vent is filtered to dry the gas and keep the semi-liquid, highly corrosive, electrolytes from leaking out of the case, but the filter isn't always successful and all will eventually leak.

If I can find copies of the reports and memos I wrote back then, I'll make them available. They contain some pretty good info since I consulted with some of the senior engineers and designers at Ray-o-Vac and Duracell (Can't remember the parent company's name at the moment).

I'm not up to speed on some of the later technologies like Lithium-Ion and Metal-Hydride, but NiCads had better ampacity and longevity when they had Mercury in them.

John

Just noticed n4zopv's post mentioning candlepowerforums dot com - you'll get more current info there when it comes back on-line

My Father in Law was the Graphics Art Designer for Ray O Vac long time ago in Madison WI. Designed their battery logos and packaging. At that time their batteries were junk, they all leaked but they looked nice.

 

[Andy Griffith]

you'll get more current info

Is that an industry joke?

 

[P&R Fan]

One warning with the 123As. If the terminals contact metal in your pocket it really heats up. I know this from experience.
These cost about $2 apiece at the local big box store, so I stock up when they have a sale. I have 3 Surefires and really like them.

 

[max]

Like many gun folks I am a real flashlight nut. I have lots of batteries and have done a lot of reading on the subject. My personal preference is Energizers, but I have also had good luck with Ray-O-Vac. I am talking about alkalines of course.

 

[WHO CARES]

Just a reminder - for those of you that have switched to digital cameras but still have a good quality 35mm in the closet. Don't leave those batteries in that camera forever or you will have issues as well...

Ward

 

[ColColt]

Just a reminder - for those of you that have switched to digital cameras but still have a good quality 35mm in the closet. Don't leave those batteries in that camera forever or you will have issues as well...

Ward

I still have an old black pristine Nikkormat FT3 and FTN Photomic. The latter used mercury batteries that's no longer available so, it doesn't get used anymore...especially since I bought the D200!! SD cards are way cheaper than film.

I was looking foir a Surefire flashlight just the other day and could find no info on their website as to what sort of beam a LED frlshlight put out. So, I wrote the manufacturer and got a real stupid reply from some gal that worked there.

"We would recommend heading into a dealer with a light you use every day so you will have something to measure our lights against. Also we may measure distance and spread in the future however, currently we do not. If you have any further questions or concerns please do not hesitate to contact me at the below telephone number."

Can you believe that? They don't know if it puts out a beam 30 degrees at 20 feet or 60 degrees at 30 feet? I was curious since they are so small and the bezel couldn't be more than an inch and a half in diameter and wondered how the 6P or 2Z model compared to my 3-C cell Maglight. I expected a better explanation than I got.

 

[bountyhunter]

Entrapped as I am, by the need to use batteries for so many devices (flashlights, especially), I tend to buy batteries in quantity.

The choices usually come down to Energizers or Duracells.

I have several Pelican, Maglight, Surefire, and Streamlight flashlights. I've recently had lighting problems with a Pelican which has an induction switch. I really have to keep the contacts spotless, else it just won't come on. This light has been replaced once by Pelican, but now I suspect it may be battery, and not switch related.

I've not had any major catastrophes, but I've noticed that Duracells seem to degrade much quicker than Energizers. While I don't have any empirical data, anecdotally, it seems that Energizers don't degrade to leakage as quickly as Duracells.

Please chime in with opinions, emotional outbursts, etc.

It probably means the duracells you got had sat on the shelf longer and self discharged farther than the Energizers. All batteries do it. I think major brands are comparable.

 

[bountyhunter]

I buy Energizer AA and C from Sam's Club in their large packs. Seem to work as good as any.

Volume sellers are good because the stock turns over quickly so you'll get fresh batteries.

 

[n4zov]

I still have an old black pristine Nikkormat FT3 and FTN Photomic. The latter used mercury batteries that's no longer available so, it doesn't get used anymore...especially since I bought the D200!! SD cards are way cheaper than film.

I was looking foir a Surefire flashlight just the other day and could find no info on their website as to what sort of beam a LED frlshlight put out. So, I wrote the manufacturer and got a real stupid reply from some gal that worked there.

"We would recommend heading into a dealer with a light you use every day so you will have something to measure our lights against. Also we may measure distance and spread in the future however, currently we do not. If you have any further questions or concerns please do not hesitate to contact me at the below telephone number."

Can you believe that? They don't know if it puts out a beam 30 degrees at 20 feet or 60 degrees at 30 feet? I was curious since they are so small and the bezel couldn't be more than an inch and a half in diameter and wondered how the 6P or 2Z model compared to my 3-C cell Maglight. I expected a better explanation than I got.

Go to candlepowerforums dot com and check out their reviews. You will probably find a review of the light that includes not only beam shots but more information than you could possibly want!