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Best way to carry a 4 inch K-frame revolver?
- Thread starter circa1981
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Unless you're particularly long torso-ed and short-legged, I don't see an improvement in a shoulder rig over a strong side pancake-style holster.
Why not carry a snubby?
A 4" K or L frame is at the extreme limit to carry in an IWB holster. I recommend a Spark VM2 for function and comfort. You will have to order one from Sparks, unless you can find one used. I have one for a 3" 686, which is quite comfortable and doesn't grip the cylinder too hard (due to a steel insert).
Any pancake holster will work well for OWB. Avoid high-rise holsters. The tend to flop and not hold the butt tight to your side, and you need to be something of a contortionist to draw from one. Two-slot holsters work best for revolvers, as the quick-snap versions grip the cylinder too tightly. Good manufacturers to consider include Grizzle and Alessi.
Women often find it more comfortable to carry in a cross draw OWB holster.
Any pancake holster will work well for OWB. Avoid high-rise holsters. The tend to flop and not hold the butt tight to your side, and you need to be something of a contortionist to draw from one. Two-slot holsters work best for revolvers, as the quick-snap versions grip the cylinder too tightly. Good manufacturers to consider include Grizzle and Alessi.
Women often find it more comfortable to carry in a cross draw OWB holster.
I've decided that a 38 snubby is wrong for me, because the recoil of the .38 special +p is too much out of a 2 inch barrel, plus I wouldn't be getting true defensive .38 ballistics. Also nothing beats that sweet K frame trigger.
I've decided that inch .38 special +p is to much for me to handle well enough for me to train enough to get good with it. Plus I wouldn't be getting real 38 ballistics. I could get a 3 inch model 60, but with those dimensions, the advantages of a snubby are kinda lost.
There's much to ballistics beyond barrel length; what matters most is matching the right round with the right gun -- do that and ballistics are attended to.
Some think that more barrel length and more "boom" will make for a defensively superior round. Not so. An example: many shooters presume more velocity is automatically better -- it isn't; the right velocity for a particular bullet is what matters. Not enough and you won't get reliable expansion, true, but too much velocity and you expand too soon and fail to adequately penetrate.
So you can get true defensive .38 ballistics from a variety of barrel lengths, provided the defensive round is well chosen.
Is it possible that when you say the .38+P recoils too much out of a 2" barrel that you mean from a J-frame 2"? Each person's hand has differences in felt recoil, but to me the heft of the K's frame swallows the majority of the recoil, and the barrel length is secondary; I don't feel that much difference between a 2", 3" or 4" inch K-frame until you get to the heavy-barreled 4". But yes, a 2" J-frame is a different thing altogether, recoil-wise.
If we are in fact confusing snubby J and K-frames, that would also explain why you say you're not interested in a .38 snubby because you don't want to miss out on the sweet K-frame triggers -- it's the same trigger on any K-frame regardless of barrel length; you wouldn't miss out on it whichever length you chose within the K-frame family, 2" and up.
If you're thinking of a shoulder rig, I'll presume you're planning on concealed carry. Bottom line is I think you'll find a 4" K-frame cumbersome to carry, open or concealed, but especially concealed. Strongly suggest you consider the 2.5" Model 19 or 66, and 2" or 3" Models 10, 13, 64 and 65.
I know the difference between a J frame and a K frame, and, for me, the differences are enough for me consider a K frame, weight and size issues duly considered. I'm also considering a few semi auto's as well, but at heart, I'm a revolver guy.
You've shot defensive rounds from a snubby K-frame and are confident the recoil is too much?
K frame carry
I carried a 4" Sq Bt M65 as an off duty weapon for close to 20 years before replacing it with an auto, I carried it in a simple "sheath" type clip holster that was IWB.....I also carried the same gun OWB in a pancake type - always carried strong side hip, 4" K's are quite concealable....most of my career was spent in hot, humid climes and I usually wore a T-shirt or a button up shirt with the tails out.....I would recommend you check out Lobo Leather, and there are many others out there to "fill the bill". Good shooting.
I carried a 4" Sq Bt M65 as an off duty weapon for close to 20 years before replacing it with an auto, I carried it in a simple "sheath" type clip holster that was IWB.....I also carried the same gun OWB in a pancake type - always carried strong side hip, 4" K's are quite concealable....most of my career was spent in hot, humid climes and I usually wore a T-shirt or a button up shirt with the tails out.....I would recommend you check out Lobo Leather, and there are many others out there to "fill the bill". Good shooting.
I thought perhaps.
Snubby is a bit of an amorphous term referring to the shorter barrel lengths in all the frame sizes -- J, K, L and N.
I strongly encourage that you look at the 2"-3" K-frame snubbies I listed above for concealed carry, and move the 4" Ks to the back of the line.
An owb pancake holster on a good belt should work just fine.
Maze 686
US Veteran
I carry my 4 inch 686 in a Black Hills inside the waistband holster without any problems. I've worn it with just a polo shirt and it stays concealed and very easy carrying.
Most folks around here think buying used is preferred.
If you prefer new, your best bet is an L-frame 686 with a 2.5" barrel. It's a touch beefier than a K-frame, but comparable overall, and an excellent, well-balanced fighting revolver; nicely controls even heavy .38 +P recoil, and stainless has advantages for carry -- fewer handling marks and less prone to rust.
If you're willing to buy used, options really open up. Again, see earlier suggestions. If I had to pick one, I'd recommend a 2.5" Model 66. One advantage to buying used is that -- since you intend to carry -- there are many mechanically sound shooters out there with some cosmetic wear and that brings the price down -- you save a little money, and don't have to worry about the inevitable carry wear.
I respect the opinions and advice of fellow members, but I'm not certain your legitimate concerns regarding stature and concealed carry are being adequately considered when they recommend a 4" K-frame. Ones physical dimensions play a significant role in both concealed carry comfort, ease of draw and bringing to bear the firearm, and most importantly, remaining properly and consistently concealed while in public.
A round-butted K-frame, 2 to 2.5" barrel ideally, and no more than 3", stainless or nickel first followed by blue, I think will best suit your needs as you have described them.
SgtLumpy
Member
I have absolutely zero problems carrying a 4" K frame IWB on my strong side. And I'm an old guy with an injured right arm. If you can touch your right arm pit with your right hand (for right handers) then you can "clear leather" with a 4" or larger gun from the belt line.
Presenting ANY gun from ANY holstered location, concealed or otherwise, takes -um- practice. It's not a matter of "With this holster it will be automatic and I won't need to practice".
On snubby recoil -
The recoil happens AFTER you shoot. Heavy recoil is only a factor in RAPID FIRE, repeated target shooting. Hold on to the darn thing and allow it to kick you a little bit. Change your grip. Change your grips. Figure out how to hold on to that little 2 lbs of metal for the millilsecond that it's kicking you. Apply the same kind of body mechanics you apply when getting kicked by other things like sticking a shovel into a pile of dirt, throwing a ball, hitting a nail with a hammer, loosening a jar or your lug nuts, closing the hood on your truck.
On snubby ballistics -
Nobody has ever heard/said "Don't worry about that bullet wound in the chest. You were only shot with a snub nose"
Smoothly put ONE bullet on target. Repeat. Repeat that a few thousand times. You are a pistolero. You automatically adapt and figure out how to work the hardware.
Struggle with the "theory" of why this bullet or that, why this holster or that will be "adequate" when you need it while actually firing only 50 rounds per year makes you not a pistolero but a "theory struggler".
Don't be a theory struggler.
Sgt Lumpy
Presenting ANY gun from ANY holstered location, concealed or otherwise, takes -um- practice. It's not a matter of "With this holster it will be automatic and I won't need to practice".
On snubby recoil -
The recoil happens AFTER you shoot. Heavy recoil is only a factor in RAPID FIRE, repeated target shooting. Hold on to the darn thing and allow it to kick you a little bit. Change your grip. Change your grips. Figure out how to hold on to that little 2 lbs of metal for the millilsecond that it's kicking you. Apply the same kind of body mechanics you apply when getting kicked by other things like sticking a shovel into a pile of dirt, throwing a ball, hitting a nail with a hammer, loosening a jar or your lug nuts, closing the hood on your truck.
On snubby ballistics -
Nobody has ever heard/said "Don't worry about that bullet wound in the chest. You were only shot with a snub nose"
Smoothly put ONE bullet on target. Repeat. Repeat that a few thousand times. You are a pistolero. You automatically adapt and figure out how to work the hardware.
Struggle with the "theory" of why this bullet or that, why this holster or that will be "adequate" when you need it while actually firing only 50 rounds per year makes you not a pistolero but a "theory struggler".
Don't be a theory struggler.
Sgt Lumpy
Water-Man
US Veteran
Lobo Gun Leather - Enhanced Pancake Model
